blacklabeljack

Well i recently did a large jewelry box for someone and i used tung oil because i had used it on a previous jewelry box for my gf and i really liked the finish product but this project was a pain in the butt. That person loved the box that i made and wants another one but i really do not want to use tung oil again because of how long it takes to dry now that its getting colder, So does anyone recommend a good finish that is not too difficult to work with and that has a slight amber tint?

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CtotheT

Finishing Oil is good. Danish Oil too is good but contains some Tung OIl.

Julian the woodnut

Shellac gets my vote, but it won't make the grain pop like oil will. Why not oil it first and let it dry somewhere warm, then hit it with shellac.

Tony B

Learn to spray lacquer if you have an air compressor.
Pull gun from shelf, rinse and flush with lacquer thinner, add fresh lacquer = 10 minutes.
spray first coat and wait to dry =10 minutes
spray second coat and wait to dry = 10 minutes
spray third coat = approx 5 minutes.
Dump out old lacquer, flush gun with lacquer thinner, put back on shelf and clean hands = 10 minutes.

From start to finish, including clean-up - total of 45 minutes and you are DONE!!!!!

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Tony B

http://www.thetexaswoodworks.com

The Everyman Show

Jack first of all nice job on the jewelry box. I recently used the Sam Maloof finish which is 1/3 tung oil, 1/3 boiled linseed oil and 1/3 varnish. I bought mine from a Rockler outlet store for about $25.00 for a quart. It goes on very easy and it is used very sparingly. I personally couldn’t say enough good things about it. Down sides are you will need to apply about 5 coats to get a good covering and it takes about 24 hours between coats so I’m not sure if that gets into your desire for a quicker drying finish.. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2004 You could use Danish oil which I believe is similar to tung oil but has additives in it that make it dry quicker.

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John.

You'll never make yourself taller by standing on another mans shoulders.

Wood4Fun

what about boiled linseed oil?

rrich

You could bring the project to either Arizona or Nevada and use Minwax Antique Oil Finish. You can't buy MAOF here in California but you could use MAOF in Arizona or Nevada.

MAOF dries in about a day or so and normally requires a couple of coats. MAOF brings out the grain like Tung oil but it has the advantage of curing quicker than Tung oil.

__________________
Use the right tool for the job.

Rich (Tilting right)
Huntington Beach, California
Remember that when we have the "BIG ONE" everything east of the Rockies falls into the ocean.

blacklabeljack

i think ill try out that finish because i live about 10 minutes from rockler. I've just started learning my way around all the different types of finishes so thank you all for your input. Is there any specific brand of boiled linseed oil i should also try?

cabinetman

WELCOME TO THE FORUM

Some of our recent threads covered this type of finish in detail. The "finishes" that are sold in cans or bottles that have "Finish" on the label, such as "Danish Oil Finish" or "Tung Oil Finish" are a combination of ingredients. Usually they are a varnish type resin, an oil, and mineral spirits. The "Tung Oil Finish" will likely not have Tung oil, but rather Soy oil. Pure Tung oil will have on the label "100% Pure Tung Oil".

I would use BLO (boiled Linseed oil...any brand), VM&P Naptha (Varnish Makers & Painters), and an oil base varnish, or an oil base polyurethane. The mixture can be done in thirds. In changing the ratios, IOW, in increasing the ratio of Naptha, it will dry faster. By increasing the amount of varnish, it will dry with a thicker film. By increasing the amount of oil, it will taker longer to dry, and the film will not be as thick or brittle. This is an easy wipe on finish.

Experiment with the ratios, as this method is less expensive than packaged finishes and you will get the benefit of the oil enhancing the grain.