minwax wood finish stain used over acrylic latex paint for wood graining technique - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum

 
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post #1 of 8 Old 01-07-2011, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
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minwax wood finish stain used over acrylic latex paint for wood graining technique

I made an entertainment center out of mdf plywood and raw trim. I wanted it to be stained, but I could not stain the mdf only the raw trim I used for deocration. So, I researched a little and discovered the wood graining technique. I decided to use this on the mdf wood, but I think I have made some mistakes.............

1st- painted the mdf with acyrlic latex semi-gloss.
2nd- when paint was dry I used minwax wood finish stain generously
3rd- used the wood graining tool and brushed lightly through the created graining to soften the look
4th- waited 14 hrs (stain still had not dried) added a very thin coat of stain and brushed off then used wood graining tool again

It doesn't look bad at this point. I think with an additional coat of stain it will give me the look I am wanting, but I am concerned the stain will not dry at all...ever. Should I start over or what??????

Any help would be GREATLY apprciated

Last edited by Andrade05; 01-07-2011 at 05:29 PM. Reason: type error
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post #2 of 8 Old 01-07-2011, 06:21 PM
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WELCOME TO THE FORUM

Here's an easy step by step to graining.

Here's a video.










.
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post #3 of 8 Old 01-07-2011, 10:01 PM
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if your using a stain for graining it HAS to be a gel stain.
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post #4 of 8 Old 01-08-2011, 05:45 PM
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I do a lot of faux graining and I like using artists oil colors in the tubes for my glazing. They blend and stay open longer than any commercial stain. Here is a link to my blog on some step by step faux painting I did last year. I don't use the graining tool at all anymore and suggest reading "The Art of Faux" by Pierre Finkelstein for excellent advise on making glazes and proper brushes to use.
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post #5 of 8 Old 01-08-2011, 07:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Mosher View Post
I do a lot of faux graining and I like using artists oil colors in the tubes for my glazing. They blend and stay open longer than any commercial stain. Here is a link to my blog on some step by step faux painting I did last year. I don't use the graining tool at all anymore and suggest reading "The Art of Faux" by Pierre Finkelstein for excellent advise on making glazes and proper brushes to use.

i agree i havent used a "graining" tool in 20 yrs. they are too speicies orientated. i too do faux commercialy. though i tint my own glaze
for a true faux artist there really is no limits to tool and technique's.
finkelstein is a great sourse for faux. he's without a doubt one of the best if not THE best. i have attended two of his seminar's.
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post #6 of 8 Old 07-10-2012, 07:49 PM
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The Minwax will dry. When it does, you can brush a varnish over it quickly and without re-brushing, or you'll cut the stain and remove it. Spraying a clear-coat over your stain would be better, because it won't be pushing it around mechanically.
You may have some adhesion problems when the bonds are not optimal between coats, but you will find that there are no rules.
Keep experimenting, expect to make lots of mistakes, and do whatever it takes to produce the results you want.
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post #7 of 8 Old 07-11-2012, 01:11 PM
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Minwax Wood Finish oil based stain will not dry when applied as you did. It is intended to go onto virgin wood and be absorbed and then have all the excess wiped off. It's not paint.

What you want to use is a gel stain.

Howie..........
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post #8 of 8 Old 07-11-2012, 09:01 PM
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I have used Minwax stain on quite a few surfaces.
It will dry on paint, and on worn waxed concrete.
Break the rules.
And give it time.
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