Minwax stain bleeding through primer - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum

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post #1 of 6 Old 01-15-2011, 03:41 PM Thread Starter
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Minwax stain bleeding through primer

I am building a home bar and used oak plywood. I used Minwax Red Mahogany to stain it. After doing that, I didn't like it at all! So I decided to paint the wood instead. I used Zinsser Fast Prime 2 oil based interior primer 2 days after I stained it. There is stain bleeding through in the form of "dots". You can touch one and it is wet and smears. There are thousands of them. I even went over it with a 2nd application of the primer with the same results. HELP!!!
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post #2 of 6 Old 01-15-2011, 03:53 PM
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you primed to early. stain was not dry fully dry yet. your gonna have to do one of two things. let it dry for couple of weeks then prime again ( i would use gripper ) or what i would do is strip it, and start over. if you dont strip off the primmer you may/will have bubble issues later after finishing the pc.
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post #3 of 6 Old 01-18-2011, 09:50 PM Thread Starter
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Minwax Bleeding

Jack, thanks for your help with this issue. A couple more questions and observations. I looked real close at my primer and it has lots of "cracking"...wondering if that is normal. Also, it appears more "dots" have accumulated as time goes on. Looks like I'm going to strip it since I'm guessing the original stain won't dry out unless I remove it.

When I sand down to the stain...will this be good enough? Since stain and primer seem to soak into the wood...I'm wondering if the stain will dry enough for me to re-cover it with primer. How long should I have it sit after I sand it down? Is sanding what you mean by "stripping" or do I need to use something else? I need to go buy a palm sander tomorrow because hand sanding around 90 sqft by hand is not going to happen.

I tried to attach a photo of what it looks like but I couldn't get the filesize down.
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post #4 of 6 Old 01-19-2011, 08:36 AM
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Don't sand. You'll go right through the face veneer into the substrate. Use a liquid stripper, I've been using CitruStrip or something like that (orange, small jug) from Lowe's to strip some things over the past few days. Seems to be working really well.
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post #5 of 6 Old 07-08-2011, 01:53 PM
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Greetings! I am wanting to paint paneling that has a light coat of stained color to it. It has been this way for about 15years. I went to test some primer on top to see if it would work. Lot's of red bleeding though the primer. I did do a light sand prior to priming. What product would be best to apply under a primer just so I don't have to do a heavy sanding. Primer Used: Zynsler 1.2.3 (The one which also stated: will stop stain!). This porch doesn't have the best windows, meaning a great deal of humidity gets in during the summer. Winter, lot's of coldness! Thoughts??
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post #6 of 6 Old 07-15-2011, 01:40 AM
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Must blocking or rewash the stain minwax first!

You are not suppose to apply the primer anymore before the minwax stain already gone. because it is not compatible and that is why it keep cracking, peeling and soak.
Whilst to do re-wash the wax using liquid solvent is an alternative, as long as you assure that the minwax stain will soluble with that. you also can use bleaching-liquid for that. consult with the store that selling this.
Clearly, you must clean out the wax& stain from the surface, either by washing, bleaching and sanding it.
After that, you may re-start it with primer application, but better to try it in a small part on it first and see the reaction, if still bleeding, you are recommended to use a such Wood Sealant (not wood filler) before apply the primer coat, let it dry after 1 - 2 day, then you can go to primer coat.
Othe r optional is This wood sealant or Gum sealant can be replace by other application, it is epoxy-resin base coat, ask it to the paint-store that you use to buy the paints. Cheers
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