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Finishing white-oak, craggy table Finishing white-oak, craggy table
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Old 05-03-2009, 11:07 PM   #1
xvimbi
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Default Finishing white-oak, craggy table

Hi there - Just joined, because I have this nagging issue with our dining table that we just snatched up. The table is made of white oak (in fact, it is the Big Sur table from Crate & Barrel, http://www.crateandbarrel.com/family...1&SearchPage=1).

We love the table, but it is unfinished. We'd like to use it without table cloth, and so I am looking for ways to protect it. I have semi-glossy polyurethane that I used for another table, but this one has cracks and small holes. I was wondering if I could use the polyurethane, or if I should go for something else that could somewhat fill up the cracks and holes and would give an overall smoother surface. We do not want to stain the table, just give it a coating that will prevent water, sauces and wine from penetrating the wood.

Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks so much in advance. Cheers - MM
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Old 05-04-2009, 08:45 AM   #2
Geoguy
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You can fill cracks and holes with poly but it takes a long time. You might consider using natural (that's the color) grain filler if you don't mind the cracks and holes going away. A friend of mine will start days in advance, dripping/pouring poly into knots and worm holes to fill them with a clear finish so they can still be seen - it takes a while.
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Old 05-05-2009, 07:58 AM   #3
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Poly is probably the most durable finish you can apply for daily use. Filling the grain, holes, etc., will ruin the character (IMHO), but as suggested, dribbling it into the cracks/holes will take a while, but still maintain the look. Satin will even keep most of the natural unfinished look. Water based poly will not darken the wood, but oil based will.
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Old 05-05-2009, 08:16 PM   #4
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That table top is solid wood and very thick. Have you thought about just leaving it untreated and as life marks start to appear sand them out. That is a very expensive table and you have paid for the beauty of the natural wood, it would be a shame to cover it up or possibly ruin it.
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Old 05-06-2009, 08:49 AM   #5
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Thanks so much for the replies!

Indeed, the table is beautiful, and I did think about leaving it as is. But I am concerned about the various liquids soaking into the wood deeper than can be sanded off routinely (unless I take about a millimeter off at a time).

I also agree that it would be a shame to cover up the cracks and holes. I will likely not bother filling them up.

I think I will try a water-based polyurethane coating on a section of the underside of the tabletop (it's solid wood) to see how it behaves.

Thanks again! Cheers - MM
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Old 05-06-2009, 11:17 AM   #6
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I wouldn't suggest water based poly. I made that mistake on red oak before because the water will cause the grain to swell. If you're going to use poly, you should probably use oil based.

By the way, wouldn't a laquer be a better finish for a dining table? Poly isn't the most durable finish for daily use.
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Old 05-06-2009, 11:24 AM   #7
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I agree with streamwinner. Poly is nowhere near as durable as laquer for a table top. Water based poly is not a good choice either IMO. If you want to give it some durability, and not change the appearance, then just use beeswax. I make my own polish with 50%beeswax, and 50% turpentine. It gives the wood some protection from spills, and really keeps the wood looking fresh.
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Old 05-07-2009, 04:03 PM   #8
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I don't like polyurethane varnish and would never use it on a piece of furniture, but its strongest attribute is its resistance to abrasion. One part lacquer is not only less resistant to abrasion but also less resistant to normal household chemicals. I would probably use Waterlox Original or Behlen's Rock Hard varnish both are phenolic resin tung oil(Waterlox) or linseed oil (Behlens) varnishes and both are harder than polyurethane varnish.
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Old 05-08-2009, 08:43 AM   #9
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Thanks again for the input. I realize that the different options have advantages and disadvantages. My main concern is to keep liquids from soaking into the wood (while preserving as much of the natural look as possible), so I will give a wax-based solution a try. I wouldn't mind reapplying it every month or so, provided it is an easy task. Cheers - MM
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Old 05-08-2009, 09:05 AM   #10
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You say you "snatched up" this table. Does this mean it is a used piece of furniture? Or did you purchase it new?

If it is new there is probably some type of coating applied by the factory to protect the top.

It would help to have some background on the table before making recommendations. A picture would also be useful.

G
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Old 05-08-2009, 09:16 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgeC View Post
You say you "snatched up" this table. Does this mean it is a used piece of furniture? Or did you purchase it new?

If it is new there is probably some type of coating applied by the factory to protect the top.

It would help to have some background on the table before making recommendations. A picture would also be useful.
Hi George - I got the table from someone who used it as a desk. The table looks pretty much like in the pictures linked to in my first post, except for a couple of small (water or fat) spots and an area in the middle front that received a bit more traffic. That area looks a bit darker than the rest, presumably from putting hands and forearms down. I was planning on lightly sanding the surface before putting anything on. The product description says it's initially been treated with wax, but the store people couldn't (or didn't want to) provide any other information. That prompted me to look into something like Howard's Feed-N-Wax.

Thanks. Cheers - MM
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