If your trying to keep the wood close to the grain and original looking, I suggest using a 3-5 sheen nitrocellulose lacquer.
Thin the lacquer 25% with lacquer thinner as that will reduce the solid content and not allow for a "build finish". Apply 1 coat, then take a scotch brite pad and scuff lightly to smooth it out just a little bit. Then apply another lacquer coat. If your not happy with the feel, simply scuff again with the scotch brite and apply another coat. I would not apply more than 3 coats.
I recommend an Oil finish like Watco Danish Oil for a natural finish.
Watco is available in colors and in small quantities.
A medium Walnut might be a color you would like.
No high gloss, easy to apply, easy to touch-up, brings out the color of natural wood.
I was thinking since its a table top, and since you are able to spray, Sherwin Williams makes a 3 sheen Conversion Varnish that when it drys, it looks dead flat. Its also water white, which means it will not yellow over time. A CV finish would be ideal if your worried about spills, etc. You could still reduce the CV about 15% and it will leave the finish close to the wood and still give you that natural look.
SHER-WOOD® MATTE WATER WHITE VARNISH V84FH161.....needs to be catalyzed with 3.9% of the V66V21 Catalyst by volume.
I can not load the product data sheet for the material since its not available online. If you have any questions about this product in case you decide to try it, please post and I will answer the best I can.
Of course, Im pro Sherwin Williams, but for what your doing, any NC lacquer will do as long as its a 5 sheen or lower if available.
The Sherwin Williams lacquer I would use is....T75FH69 SHER-WOOD 3 SHEEN WATERWHITE LACQUER TOPCOAT (HAPS COMPLIANT)
Another tip.....you can also reduce this lacquer with 15% acetone which will help it dry faster AND keep the sheen on the low end even if a build of topcoat is made. Just do light coats and you should be fine.
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