areneau

Hey there, I am having some major problems with finishing my projects. I am using a water-based clear coat, and am having major issues with drips and bubbles. I have never shaken the can and I am using a synthetic brush (my 4th different one and results haven't changed). I am trying to put it on in thin coats, but it always seems to want to go on heavy, should I be watering it down to make it thinner? What am I doing wrong???

cabinetman

Waterbase really works better when sprayed. But, if you have to brush, it's likely your technique. You could be carrying too much in the brush to the work. If you lay down finish and draw it out with the tip of the brush, there should be no bubbles or drips.

Check the label of the can for directions on thinning when brushing. Many brands are ready to use out of the can.

areneau

It is ready to use out of the can but it still seems to go on thick, but as I brush across to thin it I end up with tiny little bubbles forming on the wood that I can't seem to get rid of. As for carrying to much to the wood, I have tried different brushes, including a sponge brush but I always get the same thing. Would it possibly be easier to use an oil based product? Also I am not sure what you mean by laying down finish?

areneau

I have seen on some other posts about preparing the finish as a wipe on. How do I go about that, and what kind of cloth would a person use?

cabinetman

"Laying on the finish" refers to how much fluid is carried to the work and spreading it out. When the material is spread out you lightly "drag" the brush in one direction to even out the material. It's not a back and forth painting motion. You may have to "drag" the brush more than once, with a feathering at the end of the stroke.

To wipe on, use a lint free "T" shirt type rag, sort of folded into an easily handled pad. Try out of the can on a sample. It may need some thinning. Apply lightly in thin coats with the grain direction.

areneau

Thanks, your input helped, I haven't tried to brush on yet but I did use a cloth. I still do get a few fine fibers from the cloth but on the overall of it it worked well. Now the cloth I used was just on old sock cause it was handy. I had also thinned it back to a 60/40 ratio with thinner being I also switched to an oil based poly. How many coats should I be using, it seems to be very thin going on, I have put on 4 now and its looking great. Also should I be sanding between as I haven't been cause on other projects I have had the problem of sanding too deep and removing some stain. I was using a 400 grit and still taking stain off so for this one I didn't sand at all and it seems to be doing ok, should I keep it that way?

cabinetman

Have you heard the saying "If it ain't broke...don't fix it". If you're working in a fairly dust free area, non aggressive sanding will remove dust nibs, and minor irregularities. You may not need to do much at all until the next to last coat or so.

What matters is how satisfied you are with the results.

areneau

Thanks Cabinetman, makes sense, as for dust free area, all I have right now is my garden shed and my deck, that is my workshop so I have to watch the weather and the wind for finishing. Thanks for sharing your advice, greatly appreciated.

StarsOnly

I share the same type of limitations for workspace, I do all my finishing on sawhorses in my empty dining room. (Look for my book coming soon: Fun With Fumes How To Live With a Migraine 7 days a week.



The one thing I would add to Cabinetman's advice is to make sure you are using the right type of brush. Just like you, a few day ago I was having the same problem and as Cabinetman said: Technique, technique, technique.


Then I figured out the polyester brush I was using was not laying an even spread, (bristols were too stiff.) Got new brushes and first coat on one of the other sections and it went on perfectly instead of coming out like bubble-wrap.


Brian

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areneau

I agree with proper brushes, but for a water based I had a synthetic brush, what other choice do I have. I found it to be a little on the stiff side but it was the best one I could find in this town. Maybe I need to talk to a paint shop here and see what they can bring in. Not sure if I will ever go back to the brush, at least not for awhile. After putting it on with a cloth I have never had something turn out so nice in my life, except the glue spot. I want to practice all of these great ideas I am getting and see which one will work out best for me, but till then I will continue with the rag. Loving the feedback here. Thank you again.

toddj99

Try thinning it back to 70/30. It'll still even out while going on a little thicker. Seems to work for me.

areneau

I have mine thinned to 60/40 and it worked good. I want to keep going a thicker until I get as thick as possible with good results.

gregL

A lambswool applicator works best for applying a waterbased varnish. I learned this from a flooring finisher who used this method and I tried it on a dresser and got excellent results!

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StarsOnly

I was brushing on a tung oil based spar varnish so big difference than what you're dealing with.

From the feedback I get from the forum most of the people seem to like wiping things on when it works. My first staining job doing a wood peaked ceiling I started with a brush and switched to a cloth from advice here. It went way better.

My second project, a bench refinish I'm doing now, I did all of with a cloth. Much easier and better control.

When I try a water based varnish I'm going to try wiping on first as well.

Brian

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"When describing a problem there is no such thing as a word that does not exist."