Famowood crystal clear glaze coat - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum

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post #1 of 7 Old 07-17-2009, 05:07 PM Thread Starter
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Famowood crystal clear glaze coat

This is going to be embarrassing. I am very new to all of this. I just discovered that I enjoy wood working and this was my forth project. While buying stain at a local store I seen on the shelf this product that states its pour on and is like up to 20 something coats of brush on. So I thought I would try it.
I only put it on the top of the coffee table I built. The problem came when I was removing the strips I clamped in place to prevent the excess from pouring over the side, as the table was flat. When I removed the strips the product was dry enough to not run freely anymore but was still wet enough to cling to the striping and completely destroyed the table top. No problem. I can remove and re build the top.
The question is. I want to use this product again but need advice, as I have not been able to locate it in my searching, on how to prevent the same thing from occurring again. Would painters tape prevent the bonding to any retainer I put in place?
Thanks in advance for any and all help.
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post #2 of 7 Old 07-18-2009, 12:56 AM
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Regardless of how you attempt to contain the crystal clear, I don't think that the edge will be to your liking.

You can get a very nice gloss finish with a good polyurethane, oil or water base. It may take a few coats but it works well. If you don't mind 4-5 coats, thin the oil base to 1 part polyurethane to 1 part thinner. Water base can be thinned also. However you MUST use distilled water and 3 parts polyurethane to 1 part water is the limit.

Use the right tool for the job.

Rich (Tilting right)
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post #3 of 7 Old 07-18-2009, 09:55 AM
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Shellac and wax the strips before you put them on. Let the product dry fully. You will need to do something with the edge. It will have a very sharp corner. There is a product called Mirror Coat and they say it can be buffed out. If you round the epoxy over with a router or sander, you could probably buff it out to have the high gloss that you want.

Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
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Last edited by Leo G; 07-18-2009 at 09:58 AM.
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post #4 of 7 Old 07-18-2009, 10:30 AM
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You can use waxed paper as a barrier. Once cured most 2 part epoxy coatings can be wet sanded and rubbed out to a high gloss clear finish.

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post #5 of 7 Old 07-18-2009, 04:42 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks to everyone for your tips and wisdom.

My wife mentioned the non stick power of wax paper. Cant wait to tell her

If I use the multiple coats of poly would I need to do a fine sanding between each coat?

Thanks again.
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post #6 of 7 Old 07-21-2009, 01:05 PM
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If you use poly you will need to sand between coats.IMO thinned poly,wiped on is much easier for a beginner like me.NO brush marks,dries fast(which helps elimiminate dust nibs)and seems to require less sanding.I use black scotch brite pads to sand between coats.
Good Luck,
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post #7 of 7 Old 02-27-2011, 01:47 PM
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glaze coating on bar top.first we put it over slate.let and dry and repeated another coat.the second coat did not dry in the middle.it was sticky and is tacky to touch.how should we fix this. thank you duane(skip}
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