frankp

I don't remember ever being told any safety tips about using a table saw. I've had one kickback on my hand-me-down craftsman 8" saw (yes 8") and it scared the begeesus out of me. The saw doesn't have a guard or a splitter so it's always bare blade for me. I always use hearing and eye protection, but most importantly I was always nervous about standing in front of the blade, so I have always instinctively stood to the side. I routinely rip 1/4 and 3/8 inch wide strips from board stock but I always use a pusher stick. So far I've been lucky and only got a minor cut from the one kickback I had. I'm currently looking to upgrade to a larger saw with some more safety features built in. I used a friend's tabletop saw for a while and liked the blade guard and the splitter, though it definitely affected visibility. I'll take the minor hit for the safety features though. And I'll still stand off to the side.

rob.hough

Did I read somewhere that all tablesaws after some 2008 date will be required to be equipped with a riving knife ?

conscious

don't get me wrong, they beat nothing sometimes, mostly narrow rips close to the blade, but they give you no control. went to a show in denver and saw the gripper tool. it is pricey, but it definitely gives you control. it controls the wood against the fence, forward, backward, keeps the hands away, etc.

it lets you control instead of just push. no crazy stuff after it gets even with the blade, just control. i can really recommend it. works for routers too.

niki

Rob
I think that "the new designs" of the table saws shall have the riving knife.

A "riving knife" differs by;
It has the shape of the blade and sits very close (1/8"~5/32") behind the blade and keeps this distance at any blade height and moves up/down and tilts with the blade.

This requires redesign of the arbor mechanism and adding the riving knife mechanism....and who do you think will pay the money for that...correct....I think that it will be reflected in the price of the saw.. :)

Conscious
The Grrriper is good but not in my garage, no way that I'm going to pass my hand over the blade...but, it's only me...

I never use safety glasses but always use the guard (except with "two sides" sled) that gives not only protection from an "accidental contact with the naked blade" but also, stops any small UFO's that might fly from the blade.

When I'm saying "accidental contact with the naked blade", I don't mean protection against "I'm passing my hand VERY CAREFULY 1/8" from the blade" nor deliberately pushing my fingers into the blade...maybe I'm crazy - but not an idiot...I'm talking about moving my hands around or over the blade to move out some off-cut or so...and it happened to me...look at the pictures of my guard...it could be my hand...

With an arrangement like this (pics), I don't need Grriper, push shoe or push block, I just need a long push stick to push forward...if I can do it with my so poor resources in Poland, I'm sure that with the resources in US of A anyone can make it...but, it's a matter of will...

Regards
niki

End Grain

Keep in mind that I use transportable jobsite saws. No saw guards anymore. I've had too many instances where the piece I was cutting bound up under the guard when it didn't lift and rise properly. Also, I feel it obstructs my vision and line of sight of the blade. It also restricts the distance of the blade from the fence. I do use several types of push blocks/shoes/sticks and a manual kerf keeper/splitter. Anti-kickback rollers are on the fence.

__________________
Don't force it. Use a bigger hammer.

niki

Hi End Grain

I really don't blame you of removing this guard....but, I do blame your "law makers" that are not imposing a different type of guard that will not "stuck".

long time ago I had such a table saw that the guard is lying flat on the table...I removed it also...

As you can see on the pics, my guard is moving up/down (and tilts) with the blade and there is no reason to remove it.

In Europe, the "Unions" are pressing on the government all the time...they want "safe environment" for the workers and the result is that also the amateurs are getting safer machines.

The next safety regulation that is going to be forced from 2008 (less than a month) "all the rotating metal and woodworking machines must stop rotation within 10 seconds" (from the time that you hit the STOP switch)....my TS blade already complies with this regulation

Regards
niki

natemclain

We purchased a Sawstop cabinet saw about a year ago and it does the trick. Although it comes with all the guards, anti-kickback fingers & rifing knife. Since this is a commercial operation we use the guards to comply with OSHA standards.
It is a good quality saw and I will be purchasing one for my home shop as well.
Although I don't think the blade stops within 10 seconds.

Nate

End Grain

Hi Niki!

Believe me when I tell you that I didn't want to have to remove it but it was actually making the saw more unsafe IMO. Once the wood gets jammed up under it as the blade is spinning, one hand - take your pick - had to let go of the wood to hit the saw's switch, praying all the while that the anti-kickback teeth held tight.

I think that manufacturers today compromise on designs more than ever before. Competition is what drives design, not fit or function. The saw cost me $450 back in 2004. Another $50 for a better blade guard back then wouldn't have broken the bank. They could have even designed an add-on accessory to be purchased separately. But, they didn't.

The Europeans IMO still have a clearcut edge on safety across the board. Many, many years ago, it was mandatory in Scandinavian countries for an aspiring driver to demonstrate complete competency driving in snow, in rain, on ice and jump starting a car along with changing a flat tire. Here in the States, it was simply left turn, right turn, broken K-turn, parallel park and back up down the street. No close calls, no near misses and a good parking job and you were pretty much good to go.

__________________
Don't force it. Use a bigger hammer.

Samgee

The only time I've never used a blade guard was when I was cutting a Beveled edge on a 2-1/4 by 8" stock. The piece caught at the end of the cut, got pulled on a tooth, and hit me square in the face...

38 stiches and a Jaw surgery later, I'm all better...

Moral: Use 'em or stand off to the side..

Bruce B

I have had my saw for three years and yesterday I decided to install the splitter/anti kickback without the guard on it. After reading all the post here I thought I would give it a try just to see if it had any merit. After a few cuts to get it right I was going along fine until I needed to use my saw sled because the splitter is four inches high and is at the back of my saw I had to remove it so I could use my sled. Now I guess if I had a better saw where I could keep the splitter just above the blade it would work fine however in my case it just does not work for me. I could modify the splitter cutting off two inches and removing the anti kickback then my sled would work don't know yet.

Bruce.

__________________
This is only my opinion others may think differently.

niki

Hi Bruce

You are correct that the splitter/pawls are interfering with the sled and you have to remove them.

If you'll look at the pics (just a few posts up), you'll see that I'm using "half sled" for that reason...so I can still work with the riving knife and guard installed.

But, even if you remove the guard, splitter and the anti-kickback pawls to use crosscut sled, you don't have to wary so much...

The splitter and the pawls, are mainly to protect against kickback during rip cuts...in case some internal stresses are released, the work-piece can just push against the fence...but the fence is clamped to the table so, the work-piece will go to the other direction i.e. to the blade...and the upward teeth of the blade can catch the work-piece and throw it toward you...

When you are cross-cutting using the miter gauge or the crosscut sled it's totally different situation...there are no internal stresses to be released...the only kickback that you can get is in case that you move the work-piece during the cut...that's the reason that I'm clamping the work-piece to the fence...nothing moves...

Also, when using a sled, you can keep your hands and body out of the "line of fire"...if you want to make it even safer, you can screw a strip of one of those transparent plastics to the sled over the "blade line".

In my case, when I cross-cutting with the "half sled" or the miter gauge, the off-cut piece remains on the table near the blade....after the cut is done, I take a long push stick (with sanding paper at the end...for better grip on the off-cut) and move the off-cut piece out of the blade area so there will be no any "occasional contact" of the of the work-piece and the upward teeth of the blade...

Marry Christmas
niki

Butch

I use all safety items,when opportunity dictates(some cuts cant be made w/ guard)...I trust my TS is adjusted properly, and don't have to look @ blade while cutting... but then again, I'm not anal about perfection down to the hundered thousanths,either...I know cabinetmakers who don't use ANY safety accessories,but it's on them if something goes wrong, and it can happen faster than a human can react too. Jaw surgery/stitches/ER visits isn't in my future,if I can help it.

BTW: hope everyone has a SAFE and wonderful 2008!!!