nubie

Ok. I'm new. I use the splitter religiously. I stand too the left of the blad. I use a sacrificial fence that ends just past the front edge of the blade.

So, I want to rip a 2X4 X 8'. Am I doing something that is asking for a kickback because I'm ripping narror boards in half?

Parionoid maybe?
Nubie & senior citizen

skymaster

No, just use a rip blade and realize you will only get 2 pcs between 1 5/8 and 1 3/4" wide

MinConst

Ripping some 2x stock will cause the kerf to close as your concerned about. If your splitter is on there shouldn't be an issue but be careful and you might ask a helper to set a wedge in the end of the ones that close. Be sure to hold them down tight on the table.

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Minichillo's Construction
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Rob

The problem I see is the sacrificial fence. Why wouldn't it run the entire length of the regular fence? I would want that support the whole way. Also...PUSH STICKS!!!!

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Davet

I have ripped allot of 2x4's in half, with no problem
with just a guard, splitter, feather boards and a push stick.
One thing to be careful of is to make sure your 2x4 is straight and true.
If it is warped and you try to push it through between a blade and fence,
it will most certainly bind and throw the wood.


They do sell 2x2's

End Grain

If the question is "Can I do it?" then the answer is "yes". But, if the question is "Should I do it", then I think most will agree the answer is "no". Real 2x2's are very cheap. ER visits not so. Just my 2 cents. Discretion is the better part of valor.

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stuart

I have to agree with end grain.. it may not be worth all the trouble just to rip another half.
you might get a jagged piece at your forehead also.

oldgoat49

My problem with the 2 x 2's we usually have a choice of is that they are twisted and crooked so bad they aren't worth anything other than maybe for the fire. I have been splitting a 2 x 4 so that I have a better choice of 2 x's to use.

GeorgeC

That was my initial reaction. In fact I see no need for a sacrificial fence for this type of cut.

George

GeorgeC

Please advise what you think is more dangerous about ripping a 2x4 than any other ripping cut? What about ripping a 1x4? The halves of the 2x4 are much larger and heavier than many of the pieces that result from other cuts. Therefore they are much less likely to come flying out of the saw with a high velocity.

Wood working is potentially a dangerous activity. Proper precautions should be made (and our mind be clear and functional) before doing ANY work. Safety is a full time activity.


G

jiju1943

Hold your lumber tight to the table, and fence and have an off feed support, as an 8 foot stick of lumber is hard to control without an off feed support. You will do find ripping 2X4s or anything else. I too would get rid of the sacrificial fence as it could make your cut less than straight which could cause a kickback. By all means do use a push stick the last few inches of your cut as that is a little close for the fingers.

steve mackay

I rip 2x4 down to 1/4, 1/8 and, on a good day, to a 16th. THATS my "lumber". Buying basswood (or others) the right size in a hobby store gets expensive. The TS is a more versitile tool than the majority of folks think. BUT, as with ANY machine or tool, it comes down to experience, confidence and practice. Sharp blade, fence tight & aligned, push stick and ATTENTION, ATTENTION, ATTENTION ! The thought always in the back of your mind . . . " This machine WANTS to take my fingeres off ! ". " It lays in wait for the moment my attention drifts for ONE SECOND ! ". Not fear but respect and understanding. Blah, blah, blah. Spliter ? Never have installed one. Still counting "ten".

woodnthings

It's here some where! Seroiusly, ditch the sacrificial fence. If anything, add one that's longer than stock. USE the spitter! Most contruction/framing lumber will close down on the back of the blade, pinching it and cause kickback. So always use the splitter. Secondly, this type of wood will twist and warp after being ripped anyway, so there goes straight and true 2x2's. This has been my experience. You can rip it to any width from 1/16th on up with no problems as long as your push stick fits easily between the blade and fence. I always use a zero clearance throat plate as well which keeps you from trying to "rescue" thin strips that get caught down the dark hole of death to fingers! I prefer to let the thinner strips be the off fall, rather than be trapped bewteen the fence and blade even tho this is more difficult to do when making exact multiples. I've done it both ways successfully however. As a last suggestion...rip them on a bandsaw if you have one. And by all means support the outfeed ends no matter how you saw them. BTW, There are good push sticks and then there are useless and dangerous ones. A good push stick will not only push the wood though the blade,...But,and this is very important press down on the wood simultaneously! If your's doesn't can't or won't you need to make a new one that will. I'll post some designs that I use. Check out the pix in my photos,Bill

Never stand directly behind a horse or tablesaw that's running!

mmtools

I agree.... have triied to rip 2x4 into 2x2 several times... not worth thedanger of warping,twisting, binding & kickback.

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Tony B

I agree with Rob. Your Sacrificial fence is definitely dangerous.

Question?
Why did you feel a need to modify a machine that was designed for ripping?

For your own safety, use machinery the way it was designed to be used.

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http://www.thetexaswoodworks.com

pmaru77

man...I hope you are talking about some exotic wood here and not pine off the lumber rack. I'm definately a novice woodworker, but I'd go get me some 2x2 for near nuthin'. I'm sure someone already suggested it, and rightfully so. But I've done crazy stuff before, and if you figure a safe way to do it and have the time and need ...go for it. I got to find a place where they have all these woodworking terms you guys use.

BobbyfromHouston

I agree with Rob ditch the sacrificial fence.
If you already have the 2 x 4's rip them.
If you can't get good 2 x 2's buy thicker stock and rip them.
If you can get good 2 x 2's buy them and be done with it.

I cannot find good 2 x 2 and always rip them from larger stock with all the safety gear.
Bobby

phinds

www.hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/_glossary.htm

Although I notice that "sacrificial fence" is one I haven't gotten to yet.

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ScottyB

Sacrificial fence is the guy you sell stolen tools to but whom your willing to shoot if he gets caught.

woodnthings

To be truly sacrificial, he would have to take himself out. The other way I think is call homocide! bill
Really a sacrificial fence is one made of wood generally, that you attach to your real fence and then run the saw blade or dado up into it, power on. I used one in my post below:

2000 Lineal Feet wasn't enough!
Back on Topic. A tablesaw was basically designed as a rip saw, since the fence is parallel with the blade. All these add on extensions and surrounds definitely make panel work and cross cutting much easier. So use the saw as it was intended,
rip your heart out! Use a spliter and push sticks and stick a small wedge in the kerf if necessary. Support the in and outfeeds with stands or rollers etc. and don't stand directly in front of a horse or table saw that's running. bill

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Never stand directly in front of a horse or tablesaw that's running!
If you're not making dust, you're gathering it. After I reread my own posts, I agree with myself even more.