Kickback revisited - Woodworking Talk

woodnthings · 06-02-2009, 08:43 PM

A while back there was a thread on kickback: Kickback
There is also the question: Should I get a jointer or a planer? Do I need a planer?
I don't recall if anyone combined the two concepts, but it just struck me that they are related.
I always take it for granted that since I have a jointer, or two, and since I always flatten one surface and square one edge, before I run a board through the tablesaw, that everyone does the same.
Woah!

What if you don't have a jointer and your board has a little twist or bow or cup and you start running it through the tablesaw...guess what?....KICKBACK! or at best aboard that's wedged under the antikick back pawls in the splitter, with the blade running. And you're too scared to let go to shut the saw off not knowing what it's going to do next. Hopefully you've got an off switch with a knee kick pad.

So, my advice,for safety reasons, get the jointer first and the planer next, assuming you've already got the TS. FWW has an artilce on ripping with the TS:
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworki.../011206024.pdf
Just FYI:
My friend, Doug, makes custom raised panel doors, up to 12' tall and 48" wide, (a pair are in the Governor's Office in Lansing, Michigan), using laminated maple expoxied cores to prevent wood movement has a "straightening sled". It's made of 3/4" plywood, 8' long and about 16" wide, has a 3/4 " x 3/8th " steel bar to slide in the miter gauge slot, and is covered with anti slip grit for stair threads. He puts the curved board on top presses down and feeds it through his 14" TS and out comes a board with one straight edge, without using a jointer. These generally are 8/4 stock and are fairly heavy. However you can't flatten a board on the table saw, so his 16" jointer sees a lot of use.

bill

YouNGwOOd · 06-05-2009, 12:02 AM

Never been involved in a table saw kickback ,...but have seen plenty of nasty ones. Be careful.

woodnthings · 06-05-2009, 10:23 PM

The PDF version is here at:
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworki.../011206024.pdf
It covers some of the issues on ripping boards with a convex or concave edge safely.

bill

**Leo G** · 06-05-2009, 10:54 PM

Just had one today. But I knew it was coming. I had to do a cut that trapped the cutoff in between the blade and the fence. 12' pc came out quick and hard. I knew it would and made sure I was nowhere near the trajectory. Put a good size dent in the edge of my parts cart. Glad it wasn't a rib.

woodnthings · 06-06-2009, 02:47 AM

And could you give the specifics of why the piece was "trapped" between the blade and fence. It will help someone to know what to expect in a similiar situation. This piece was 12' long? Woah!

Maybe you meant 12"? Just in case you didn't see this post and the use of a stop block, here's some photos: Crosscutting long boards
Is your fence dead parallel? Sometimes that happens to me on the last cut making a rabbet, but not ordinarily.

bill

**Leo G** · 06-06-2009, 09:45 AM

The pc was 12 feet long, why is that so hard to believe? I have a professional shop not a hobby shop. I was making a 7" cove molding that needed a 30º-60º spring angle. Because I made the 5" diameter cove in the board already I couldn't reference that side of the board against the fence. I had to reference the back of the cove against the fence and tilt the blade and bury it in the (auxiliary) fence. This created a triangle between the blade fence and tabletop. The space was about 1" on the table and 2" on the fence. This is where the pc got trapped and why it got thrown. And also why I knew it could happen. I just stayed out of its way.

frostr2001w · 06-08-2009, 02:38 AM

I have a craftsman table saw with the oddball 5/8 miter slot and am trying to devise a crosscut sled to fit for safety reasons, I do not like using the old splitter devise. Any experience with this?

GeorgeC · 06-08-2009, 07:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by frostr2001w

I have a craftsman table saw with the oddball 5/8 miter slot and am trying to devise a crosscut sled to fit for safety reasons, I do not like using the old splitter devise. Any experience with this?

If you are making your own sled it does not matter what size the miter block is. You make the runner that fits the slot to whatever size is reqired, preferrably out of oak.

Lots of plans around for a crosscut sled. It can be simple or complicated.

George

Gary Beasley · 06-08-2009, 04:40 PM

You have the elcheapo Craftsman TS? I do too. It wasn't hard to make a crosscut sled for it and the splitter assembly mounts, at least on mine, allows the manufacture of a much better splitter out of metal plate and easy bolting in and alignment. I now keep this one as a backup saw for working upstairs on the engineered floor installation.

woodnthings · 06-08-2009, 08:18 PM

Sounds like you need to start a new thread there guys.

bill

frostr2001 · 06-08-2009, 11:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GeorgeC

If you are making your own sled it does not matter what size the miter block is. You make the runner that fits the slot to whatever size is reqired, preferrably out of oak.

Lots of plans around for a crosscut sled. It can be simple or complicated.

George

Thanks for the reply George. This old saw has a series of metal lips along the miter channel that makes it more difficuilt than the newer style on other saws that have the wider slot at the bottom of the channel. However I was able to make a strip of birch wood that seemed to fit ok until I attached them to the sled, then it would notslide satisfactorly.. I suppose I will try to use some wax , or I was thinking of trying to saw of the upper lips on the miter channel that I mentionrd above.

woodnthings · 06-09-2009, 07:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by woodnthings

Sounds like you need to start a new thread there guys.

bill

You guys are off the thread topic entirely...it's called "hijacking the thread" and it's not appreciated by those who are interested in kickback and it's causes and conditions.

bill