how long does it take to drill a pepper mill - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum

 
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post #1 of 18 Old 10-12-2011, 12:53 PM Thread Starter
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how long does it take to drill a pepper mill

I have several pepper mills to make in the near future and I was wondering how long it take everyone to drill out the inside.

I'm working on a midi lathe, and sometimes feel that it is underpowered for extensive drilling. I know that time will vary with the depth of the hole and sharpness of the bit, etc.

So say you are drilling out for a 10" mill. How long does that take you and what lathe are you using? It take me 60+ minutes on my Midi, i think it is 1/2HP.

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post #2 of 18 Old 10-12-2011, 01:31 PM
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60+ minutes?? No way....

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post #3 of 18 Old 10-12-2011, 01:37 PM Thread Starter
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60+ minutes?? No way....
That is what i say too! But that what it takes me a every time!

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post #4 of 18 Old 10-12-2011, 01:39 PM
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Have any pics of the set-up you're using?

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post #5 of 18 Old 10-12-2011, 02:04 PM
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Get yourself some good sharp bits. These are what I use, and it doesn't take me anywhere near an hour to drill them out. I've never timed it, but I'd say more like 10-15 minutes for a blank that size. I am turning on a Jet 1642 with a 1.5 horse motor, but it's more about the sharpness of your bit and your feed rate. I'm sure you know this, but back that bit out often, otherwise it will get stuck. I usually advance the bit 5-6 cranks of the handwheel, release the tailstock and pull it back, repeat until the quill is advanced then recrank it back and start over.

That bowl was perfect right up until that last cut...
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post #6 of 18 Old 10-12-2011, 02:18 PM Thread Starter
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Here is a picture of my set up: http://handmadewoodgifts.wordpress.c...ckmate-step-3/

The bits that I'm using are almost new, very little use and not used in woods that are hard on drill bits.

I do back out often, especially when deep in the mill.

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post #7 of 18 Old 10-12-2011, 05:32 PM
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You could always try drilling it in stages. Use a 3/4 inch morse taper bit first and then run your forstner bit. I've used the Maxi-cut bits in mango, walnut, quilted maple and purple heart, all very hardwoods with no issues.

That bowl was perfect right up until that last cut...
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post #8 of 18 Old 10-13-2011, 01:17 AM
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Dv,
not sure what you're are doing wrong, but you could probably use a brace and bit and get done in less than an hour. Slow your speed down to below 500. Bit has to be sharp. Like stated above, 4-5 cranks on the wheel at a slow steady rate, back it out, clear the chips, do it again. If the wood is not overly hard, I can drill a 10" blank (which is about 7 1/2" of drilling) in about 5 minutes. You should see pencil type shavings coming off both flutes of the bit. If you just see dust, the bit is dull. I use a small air nozzle to keep the chips cleared. That seems to help, especially when you get deeper into the blank. If your lathe is slowing down and/or stopping, you are cranking too fast, or the chips are binding the bit up. Just for the record, the forstner bits I use are the chinese ones where the whole set cost less than 40 bucks. They actually work well. When they get dull, I touch them up with a diamond hone.
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post #9 of 18 Old 10-13-2011, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dvoigt View Post
Here is a picture of my set up: http://handmadewoodgifts.wordpress.c...ckmate-step-3/

The bits that I'm using are almost new, very little use and not used in woods that are hard on drill bits.

I do back out often, especially when deep in the mill.


Since you are using the steady rest, drill the deepest hole first. What are the diameters of bits used?

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post #10 of 18 Old 10-13-2011, 11:45 PM
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Since you are using the steady rest, drill the deepest hole first. What are the diameters of bits used?
You can't do that with a peppermill. You have to start with the largest diameter hole first. The holes get progressively smaller. This way you still retain the centerpoint divot as you change drill sizes. This is based on using forstner bits. Holes sizes start with 1 3/4", then 1 1/16", then 1". (hole sizes for the traditional stainless grinder mechanism, not the ceramic crush grinder.)

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post #11 of 18 Old 10-14-2011, 12:27 PM Thread Starter
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anyone make using a lathe that is 1/2HP, or is everyone 1+HP?

I'm already doing everything that you guys are says, so I'm starting to think the heartache is lack of torque.

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post #12 of 18 Old 10-14-2011, 01:36 PM
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... I'm starting to think the heartache is lack of torque.
Does the blank stop turning? That would indicate lack of torque.

If the blank continues turning, torque isn't the problem. Is the tailstock not clamped down tight enough? (That is, does the tailstock walk backwards as you crank the quill forwards into the blank?)

How do those Forstner bits perform in a drill press? If they work alright in that tool, they are likely to be sharp enough to work in the lathe.

Just throwing out ideas ...

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post #13 of 18 Old 10-14-2011, 01:43 PM Thread Starter
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the blank will stop if I drill too fast, which is probably adding to the length of time...


never have an issue with the bits in a drill press, but I also don't need to drill a hole deeper the 1".

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post #14 of 18 Old 10-14-2011, 07:39 PM
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Dv,
I used to make all my mills on a 10" jet midi. In fact, I made a 24" one on the jet. I had the bed extension on for the extra length. I made a 10" extension for the drill bit out of a piece of 5/8" steel roundstock. I drilled it from both ends and had the holes meet in the middle. Your lathe has enough power to drill. Some woods can be harder to drill. Blood wood comes to mind as being a pain. But maple, walnut, purple heart, padauk, never seemed to be a problem.
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post #15 of 18 Old 10-16-2011, 03:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dvoigt View Post
the blank will stop if I drill too fast, which is probably adding to the length of time...


never have an issue with the bits in a drill press, but I also don't need to drill a hole deeper the 1".
Not deeper than 1", and it stalls out? I must be missing something.....

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post #16 of 18 Old 11-02-2011, 08:57 PM
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I timed myself today while boring out a pepper mill. I had four bodies ready to be bored. I bored out 4 in 55 minutes. That includes the large bore and the hole thru the blank. I like to gang bore because while I am boring one I fill the first one with lacquer just pour it in and dump it out and let it drain while I am boring another. I take 10 turns on the tail stock and remove the chips. I also vacuum the hole while I am boring out the hole. When I am deeper into the hole I keep pulling out the bit until I have removed about 90% of the chips. The secret is to have a very sharp forstner bit. It really does not matter what brand of bit you use as long as it is sharp. I have a variable speed lathe and I put the pulley combination down to the slowest speed and turn up the speed control to get about 400 rpms. At the lower speed pulley selection the lathe has the most power and torque. You can get he same speed at the next higher pulley selection but it does not have the same torque as the lower pulley speed.
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post #17 of 18 Old 11-02-2011, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
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Good information, what size were you making? I need to turn a few soon, and do a better job keeping track of my time/length.

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post #18 of 18 Old 11-03-2011, 11:52 AM
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I was making 8" S & P mills. I was using walnut, for two and Birdseye maple for two more. I make set of S & P mills. When you are deep into the hole and if you push the bit in and it feels mushy all of the chip are not out so go back in and re-leave the chips. After you do this than and only than start boring again. You will not see long chips the deeper you go because the chips are being ground up in the process, but it is important to see chips or shavings at the start. To tell if you forstner bits are sharpened correctly you should see shavings from both cutting edges at the start. When I pull out the bit I like to cool it down by vacuuming the tip for a few seconds. If I think of any other tips I will post them later.
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