how to Drill through 7"-2x2? - Woodworking Talk

Rick M · 09-29-2009, 07:40 PM

Hey guys/girls,
What a great site! Lots of good info here! I have a question and I hope somebody can help me out.
Im have alot of trouble trying to drill a 1/8" hole though a 7"-2x2 piece of ceder lengthwise. Im trying to achieve this by using my lathe and a 10" drill bit. By the time the bit makes it through the wood it is WAY off center. Is there another way to try this or a better drill bit to buy? Im using a Sears bit at the moment. Thanks for ANY suggestions,
Rick

Gary Beasley · 09-29-2009, 08:04 PM

Sounds like the bit is following the grain. Have you tried speeding up the rotation and slowing the rate of penetration?

woodnthings · 09-29-2009, 08:25 PM

Rip the piece down it's length, saw a blade width dado in one or both pieces and glue it back together.

bill

GeorgeC · 09-29-2009, 08:28 PM

Why does the hole have to be perfectly centered. I have bored a 3/8" hole through the leg of a table lamp table so that the zip cord can be run through. No problem boring the hole as long as centering is not reqired. I did this with the table leg held in a vise and using an 24" bit. It was off center, but not by a great amount.

G

john lucas · 09-29-2009, 10:21 PM

I have tried a lot of ways of drilling though the center of a piece. It's just about impossible except with special lamp boring bits or aircraft bits. By far the best way is to drill the hole. Then remount the piece using the holes as the center. That way the hole will be perfectly centered.
I use a homemade adaptor for my tailstock to fit in the hole if I can't use the 60 degree point. If you need to hold it more firmly put it between centers with light pressure and then turn a tenon with light cuts using your parting tool. Then you can grip the tenon in your chuck and the use the tailstock in the other hole.

Handyman · 09-29-2009, 11:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gary Beasley

Sounds like the bit is following the grain. Have you tried speeding up the rotation and slowing the rate of penetration?

Gary has the right idea but I would add one more thing. Drill half way from both ends. That way your hole on both ends is were you need it to be.

john lucas · 09-30-2009, 01:58 PM

On a 7" piece with a 1/8" bit I would be surprised if you could drill from both ends and have it meet. You probably can with 1/4 or maybe 3/8" but not an 1/8". Of course is also depends on the wood. If the grain runs out the side the bit will wander worse.

Rick M · 09-30-2009, 03:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gary Beasley

Sounds like the bit is following the grain. Have you tried speeding up the rotation and slowing the rate of penetration?

Yes, I have tried this. Some turn out perfect and others are WAY off. If you look down the hole after being turned, you can see that the hole wanders.

Quote:

Originally Posted by woodnthings

Rip the piece down it's length, saw a blade width dado in one or both pieces and glue it back together.

bill

Wish it was that easy.lol But thank you! I cannot cut the wood in half. It would make for way to much work.

Quote:

Originally Posted by GeorgeC

Why does the hole have to be perfectly centered. I have bored a 3/8" hole through the leg of a table lamp table so that the zip cord can be run through. No problem boring the hole as long as centering is not reqired. I did this with the table leg held in a vise and using an 24" bit. It was off center, but not by a great amount.

The reason it need to be perfect is because its a lure I build. There will be a metal rod that runs through the peice when it is done.

G

Quote:

Originally Posted by Handyman

Gary has the right idea but I would add one more thing. Drill half way from both ends. That way your hole on both ends is were you need it to be.

I have tried this also. But i need it to be some what perfect through out the entire piece. not just the two centers.

Thanks Everyone for the replies! Just a little more head scratching and Im sure Ill get it.

What the difference with a Airplane Bit? -Rick

woodnthings · 09-30-2009, 03:52 PM

Then ripping the wood down its length and gluing/epoxying it back together in 8 ft lengths would not be that much work, since you could then saw them to length and you'd be done in a heart beat!
But I'm only the free advice guy over here I don't know all the circumstances, but that's what I'd be doin' if it were me. The joint would be virtually invisible and the slot would be a quick pass over the blade at 1/8" deep.

bill
Mass production lures!

Jeff4woodturning · 09-30-2009, 08:07 PM

I would drill form both ends, also at a slow speed and back out drill bit often to clear out shavings so they don't bind up and force drill bit off center.

Rick M · 09-30-2009, 08:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by woodnthings

Then ripping the wood down its length and gluing/epoxying it back together in 8 ft lengths would not be that much work, since you could then saw them to length and you'd be done in a heart beat!
But I'm only the free advice guy over here I don't know all the circumstances, but that's what I'd be doin' if it were me. The joint would be virtually invisible and the slot would be a quick pass over the blade at 1/8" deep.

bill
Mass production lures!

Hmm..not a bad idea to try. Thanks

Rick M · 09-30-2009, 08:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeff4woodturning

I would drill form both ends, also at a slow speed and back out drill bit often to clear out shavings so they don't bind up and force drill bit off center.

Thats what Im going to try next time. I think your right on with the shavings binding up. Thanks

Bob Willing · 09-30-2009, 09:55 PM

Have you ever thought of taking an 1/8" steel rod heating it and burning it through? I someone who makes flutes with this process in bass wood.

Jeff4woodturning · 10-01-2009, 06:06 AM

Rick one more thing, don't know if you check to make sure your lathe is running true. Drive spur with a point in the head stock and run the tail stock up to see if points match. if your off there, it will ever drill center..

john lucas · 10-01-2009, 12:58 PM

The best way to drill straight long holes is to use a D drill or an aircraft drill. These are kind of hard to find and I found from practical experience that it is still hard to drill a perfectly straight hole through wood even with these.
These drills cut with only one side of the drill so it acts more like a metal boring cutter than a drill bit. Drill bits that cut with both sides will easily wander in wood, especially the small ones.
It is by far easier to drill the hole and then mount the wood between centers using the holes as the guides. If you must mount the wood in a chuck, mount it first between centers and then turn a tenon for the chuck. This will center it perfectly. When you then mount it in the chuck, bring the tailstock up for the initial mounting to make sure the hole runs true.