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Gluing workpiece to wood faceplate Gluing workpiece to wood faceplate
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Old 10-22-2009, 10:02 PM   #1
woodciro
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Default Gluing workpiece to wood faceplate

I've seen this several places-gluing the workpiece to a wooden faceplate (example: bowl turning), seperating the two with a piece of paper so it will break apart when the turning is finished.

My question is this joint strong enough to be safe? I realise that the work piece would be fairly true and balanced by the time it reached this stage, but still...it just seems to be an accident looking for somewhere to happen.

Anyone use this method?

Thanks, John
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Old 10-22-2009, 10:23 PM   #2
firehawkmph
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John,
I have seen Norm do that on his show. I have never used the piece of paper in between, but I don't see why it wouldn't work. The paper would have glue on both sides, so think of it like drywall taping, where the tape actually strengthens the joint. I don't think the paper in this case adds to the strength, but just makes it easier to split the two later. I have glued on blocks without the paper with titebond III and haven't had any problems.
Mike Hawkins
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Old 10-22-2009, 10:50 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firehawkmph View Post
...I have glued on blocks without the paper with titebond III and haven't had any problems.
Mike Hawkins

I guess without the paper you just part the block from the workpiece? I'm new to woodturning and am just getting my lathe set up for bowls, which is what I wanted to turn all along.

Thanks, John
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Old 10-23-2009, 12:33 AM   #4
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I have used this paper joint ( brown paper bag ) on bowls and inside out turnings without any issues.
Parts were easy to seperate.

Lilty
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Old 10-23-2009, 07:19 AM   #5
Jeff4woodturning
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I also have used the paper glue joint on my inside out turnings, small hollow Christmas globes, and small bowls. make sure your glue block and turning piece are true, i use printer paper glue both sides and use the tail stock till turning is balanced.

Glue block with out paper i concave glue block about 32nd of a inch to the center, load it up with CA, spray activator on turning, hold it tight with tail stock turn by hand while spraying with activator on the joint. but i always part turning off with or with out paper.

two sided sticky tape work good on small plates and birdhouse stand bases.
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Old 10-23-2009, 08:10 AM   #6
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Thanks, Jeff and Lilty. I was just a little wary of this procedure. It just seemed a little precarious.

Jeff, I'll let you know when I start bleeding.

John
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Old 10-23-2009, 10:19 AM   #7
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long before I bought a chuck I used a paper joint for a lot of different work. I use newspaper simply because I always have it. Just coat both pieces of wood with a thin layer of glue and then clamp them together. The paper does seem to slow down the glue drying time so give it a little longer than normal.
If you need to remove all of the glue afterwords which some projects require use white vinegar. It will soften it so you can scraper it off.
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Old 10-23-2009, 09:01 PM   #8
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Default paper glue joint

I have used paper glues joints successfully using Titebond II glue. Best results were when I glued it up in the evening and let it sit overnight.
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Old 10-24-2009, 09:07 AM   #9
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Thanks, everyone. I was just a little leery of it, but it seems to be a widespread practice.

John
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Old 10-24-2009, 07:18 PM   #10
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Woodciro,This is the way we were taught to do bowls in Ind. Arts.( or wood shop) when I was in Jr. High School years ago. I guess that was before chucks were on the scene in wood turning? We used note book paper and then it was white Elmers glue that we used. You will not have any problems if you clamp it and let it dry 24 hrs. I still use this method when I want a smooth bottom on a bowl. All you have to do is take a hammer and chisel and a light tap and it will separate the two pieces. I usually put it on the bench belt sander and voila', you have a smooth bottom bowl. Go for it !!!
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Old 10-25-2009, 10:59 AM   #11
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Thanks, HLW. This seems to be an old accepted practice. When I get the switch fixed on my lathe, I'll be ready.

John
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