robert421960

i have seen the back and forth opinions about these in different post so i just would like several opinions from alot of people on these
do you just like the hss tools because you are use to them maybe?
i have to buy some new tools and want to do the right thing
i have always turned dry wood

robert421960

sorry guys i just remembered seeing another thread just like this
but more comments and opinions would be great

john lucas

The easy wood tools are, well easy. There isn't any learning curve you just attack the wood. They are scraping tools and as such will leave a finish that is not so good on end grain portions. If you don't mind sanding then I guess that's alright. With some gently cutting on good wood they leave a pretty good finish.
They are also quite expensive. You could buy 2 or 3 other turning tools for the price of the easywoodtools. Now if you build your own that's a different story.
The downside of using them is you don't get to learn the bowl gouge. The bowl gouge used properly will take off wood just as fast and will leave a better finish that takes less sanding. There are times when a bowl gouge is much better. However you have to practice with it to get to this level.
Everyone says you don't need to sharpen them. True, but then you don't learn to sharpen. During your turning career you will probably get several tools that still need to be sharpened. It takes practice to learn to sharpen properly. It is a good skill to have because you will probably need it sooner or later.
I'm not against the tools. If it helps you have fun turning then that's what it's all about. I just think that learning to use a bowl gouge and other tools will take you to the next level and if you decide to stay in turning. Most turners go through a phase where they use scrapers. They are easy tools to use. However they learn to get better shapes and cleaner cuts with cutting tools and then only use scrapers when absolutely necessary.

Bob Willing

I have been using the EW tools now for about 1 year and all of my turning are spindle and dry wood. I could not use wet wood for any of my calls or peper mills. When you laminate you will get some tearing between the different woods so I resort to the standard HSS tool to get a fine finish. I have also noticed that the smaller the diameter the more chattering I get with the EW tools. I am still trying to work out different techniques. I use the detailer for beads etc, but even that in the end grains will give you chatter, and catches. They say to keep the cutting edge on center with the spindle, but there is a little give here also. One other thing if you strike the edge on the casting of your lathe with the tool you will chip the tip or edge of the carbide (carbide is brittle). So be carful how you set them down.

wildwood

The words no sharpening required appeals to woodturners old and new. NO, secret eventually you have to replace carbide cutters. Some folks touch up the edge with diamond card hones. Re-sharpening those carbide cutters, not an option. Still does not stop turners asking for advice on how too! What is replacement cost of one carbide cutter +shipping?



Whole bunch of carbide cutting turning tools available from different people and vendors and already posted you can make your own carbide tools.


Carbide cutting tools do as advertized; do they do the job faster and better than regular turning gouges and scrappers? I am saving my money!

wildwood

Ended up duplicate post!

The woodsman

I have the Ci1 ,2 an easy finisher,the last of which I only use for cleaning up the inside of bowls.I won it in a raffle or I wouldn't have one.Now I just got started in pen making an all I use is the Ci1 and it works fantastic for me.thats all I use on the pens,then start sanding with 220 and that makes me a happy camper,as for what John said,you should learn how to use gouges,I have about 5 of Doug Thompsons and wouldn'r buy anything else,some say there a bit pricey,but next to other big name brands,I think there about the same,not to mention there a better tool. So IMO I think there the best investment for the bucks

__________________
God Bless all
Ken Ward

jlord

I just bought the CI3 Mid Size Finisher & have used it a little. Bought it for the Tru-Stone pen blanks. I like the tool but for the wood & acrylic blanks I still use 1/2" oval skew & never have to use lower than 600 grit. Learning to sharpen is a must if you keep turning. I use a Wolverine setup & keeping the tools sharp while turning does not take long at all once you get used to it. Less than a minute & your back to working on your project. You will spend more time trying to smooth out a finish created by a dull tool.

__________________
James
Whittier, CA.

Just because you can, doesn't always mean you should!

The woodsman

never have to use lower than 600 grit. Showoff Heck anytime I can start above 40 grit,I'm a happy camper I have a friend that turns orniments with a skew and then just polishes them he's a showoff too

__________________
God Bless all
Ken Ward

RetiredLE

They are the Van Gogh(s) of wood. I hate em too....

__________________
--
When you think about it, God has to be the best inventor of all time. He took a rib from Adam and made a loudspeaker.

wildwood

I strive for off the tool finish. No, my work always needs sanding before finish is applied. Why, bevel riding burnishes the wood. Still get some tear out and tool marks and pesky ridges on wood surfaces. While have resorted to 80-grit tool, and sometimes whish had some 60- grit. Try to avoid those situations, they make sanding out those scratches much harder. Starting at 120-grit or higher makes life easier.

On wood and acrylic pens only use three tools, roughing gouge, skew, and parting tool have never gone below 250-grit sandpaper. Rarely use anything but micromesh on acrylic pens. I only wet sand with micromesh whether wood or acrylic. Never use micromesh on wood until finish is applied.

Bonanza35

I'm new to turning and started with only Easy Tools. They got me started fast and work great in most applications. I still feel like I'm missing out on a lot by not learning to use and sharpen traditional tools so I'm about to spend my money twice just to find out.
Also there is the frustration of deciding when to give in and rotate/replace the blade. A quick touch up on a gouge is a much smaller commitment than a $15 blade change. (I don't like commitment. Just ask my wife).
My guess as a beginner is that they have there place but can't totally replace traditional tools.

john lucas

Bonanza You are exactly right. I think they might be good tools to get a beginner hooked. They are really easy to use so you avoid most of the frustration of learning to use the cutting tools. For that reason I think they are good. The bad side is they teach bad habits. You can only control the cut by how and which direction you push.
With a bowl gouge you control the cut much like you control the tiller of a boat. You move the handle which of course adjusts the angle of the bevel. The tool goes where the bevel points. Your hand is about 12 to 16" away from the bevel or pivot point so you have a much finer control over the direction of cut and consequently the shape of the bowl.

robert421960

look at this and see what you say
looks alot better than $140
http://www.harrisonspecialties.com/m...theAccessories

john lucas

That's a much better price and more in line with the actual cost. You can buy the cutters as cheap as 80 cents apiece if you look hard enough. Your only real cost is the machining of the bar.

robert421960

i wonder if the cheap cutters will fit these?

robert421960

i bought 2 of them so i will report my opinion soon

momomo6789

ewt vs box elder = rip out their only good for removing wood. this is after it was sanded slightly



heres a pic of the inside :) 16x31/4, 1/4 thickness 3/8 bottom

robert421960

i got my handle ready for my new tool
i cant wait to get em and try them out

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