Tongue and Groove for TableTop? - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum

 
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post #1 of 7 Old 07-28-2010, 11:53 AM Thread Starter
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Tongue and Groove for TableTop?

Hello,

I'm new to woodworking apart from a few woodshop classes 20 years ago, but I'd like to try my hand at making some simple furniture starting with a small console table.

I'm planning on making the top of my console table out 3 planks of 1x6 pine, with two more 1x6 pieces running in the opposite directions to make up the ends. I understand that it's pretty common to simply glue and clamp the planks together, however I'd like to ensure that the top remains flat without cupping and eliminate as much of the sanding phase as possible. Would it be of any benefit to use a tongue and groove router bit set to create a tongue and groove assembly for my table top boards?

If this turns out well enough, I'd like to expand into a larger kitchen table using 2x8 boards... in a project that size the glue up phase is even more difficult. I don't think a router bit set will cut wood that thick. How would I create tongue and groove in wood of that thickness?

Or am I simply looking at this all wrong. Any advice is appreciated!!!
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post #2 of 7 Old 07-28-2010, 12:57 PM
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If your boards are straight edged (jointed) and fit well, just butted with glue and clamps is all that's necessary. Use clamps across the boards on top and bottom (alternating) to even out the clamping. For alignment, use cauls, which are straight edged boards (like 2x4's) on edge across the boards clamped down to keep them flat.

For the ends you might be referring to "breadboard ends", which are pieces attached that allow for expansion and contraction of the longitudinal boards. Basically it can be attached to the center of the table and the ends are fitted with a slotted connection.

Instead of using a T&G profile to join the boards, using a spline would be better. The slot for the splines would stop short of the ends so they won't be visible.






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post #3 of 7 Old 07-28-2010, 07:56 PM
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i concur cabinet

Old wood workers never die thay just get dry rot
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post #4 of 7 Old 08-04-2010, 09:14 AM
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I am having a bit of a hard time visualizing the clamps and cauls. Any chance you can post a quick sketch or picture?
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post #5 of 7 Old 08-04-2010, 09:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daddy's Cool View Post
I am having a bit of a hard time visualizing the clamps and cauls. Any chance you can post a quick sketch or picture?

This is a sample of how cauls are used (not my photo). The actual clamping can be done with a variety of clamps. For a normal type glue up, edge clamping (drawing the boards together) is also employed. Those clamps should be alternated from bottom to the top to keep the glue up from pulling one way or another.






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post #6 of 7 Old 08-04-2010, 10:45 AM
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Would you recommend clamps similar to the photo, or are pipe clamps and parallel clamps sufficient when used in conjuction with cauls held in place with bar clamps?
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post #7 of 7 Old 08-04-2010, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Daddy's Cool View Post
Would you recommend clamps similar to the photo, or are pipe clamps and parallel clamps sufficient when used in conjuction with cauls held in place with bar clamps?

I use any clamps at hand, and whatever is the most convenient to use. Cauls can be just straight boards that can be clamped.





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