Table leg bracing - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum

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post #1 of 21 Old 11-06-2010, 07:58 AM Thread Starter
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Table leg bracing

I am building a walnut extension dining table that will be 48" x 48" with two 18" leaves. I am worried about the corners not supporting the abuse that an extension table can be subjected to during its life. The tenons are 1 3/4" deep into a 2 3/4" inch tapered leg. The apron is 3 1/2" wide. I tapered the inside of the leg and will attach the cross brace with glue and screws. I was even considering putting a tenon on the cross brace and splining the taper with the cross brace. The tenons on the apron will be pinned typical of mission furniture. Any support or thoughts are appreciated.
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post #2 of 21 Old 11-06-2010, 08:13 AM
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The aprons being tenoned into the leg are IMO OK. I would screw and glue the ends of the cross brace into the back of the aprons. If you have a flat spot on the leg, install the cross brace with glue. Once installed, I would drill two " dowel holes through the cross brace and into the leg at the same time. Then insert dowels with glue.












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post #3 of 21 Old 11-08-2010, 01:09 AM
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I am getting ready to attack a table as well, that is basically the same as what you have built. What plans did you use? What did you use for the extension sliders? Any tips to pass along, or what you decide to do for the bracing will be appreciated.
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post #4 of 21 Old 11-08-2010, 06:12 AM Thread Starter
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Table leg bracing

I drew the plans myself based what the customer wanted. The skirt was just based off what I saw in a Stickley catalog that I liked. I sat at my own table and took measurements as I sat in a chair. Most dining tables are pretty much standard between 28" and 30". This table will be 29" tall. I thought about making my own sliders but I found two companies that make and sell them. They both have a 1/4" camber in the middle when extended to help prevent table sag. One is made with soft maple and the other set is hard maple. I am leaning toward the hard maple set.

http://www.paxtonhardware.com/Wood-T...partments/874/

http://www.osbornewood.com/table-slides.cfm

I build furniture to last for a lifetime. I really want to make the corner at solid as the wood itself. I will buy some 1/2" solid maple dowells and do as cabinetman suggested by drilling through the cross brace into the leg. I have also decided to remake the braces out of hard maple. The tenons will still be pinned.
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post #5 of 21 Old 11-08-2010, 06:25 AM Thread Starter
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I set my fence on my jointer at 45 degrees and then made three passes to take 1/2" from the corner. This gives me a flat surface to screw, glue and dowell the cross brace to the leg. I noticed this removed material wasn't that noticable in the first photo.
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post #6 of 21 Old 11-08-2010, 08:53 AM
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Question

In the above photo, the mortise extends almost through the leg, shy about 1/2" I'm guessing, why not just run a dado up from the end and save all the work of the mortise?...Unless of course you have a mortising machine.
Seems to me it would be almost as strong not having it captured at the end by that 1/2" of leg material...What say you?
Maybe this is a mater of principle with you since you said you want to build furniture to last for generations/lifetime. bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specfic. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo
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post #7 of 21 Old 11-08-2010, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
In the above photo, the mortise extends almost through the leg, shy about 1/2" I'm guessing, why not just run a dado up from the end and save all the work of the mortise?...Unless of course you have a mortising machine.
Seems to me it would be almost as strong not having it captured at the end by that 1/2" of leg material...What say you?
Maybe this is a mater of principle with you since you said you want to build furniture to last for generations/lifetime. bill

IMO, a mortise would provide more strength by giving support to all sides of the tenon.









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post #8 of 21 Old 11-08-2010, 02:24 PM
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Yeah, I hear Ya but

With only a 1/2" or so of straight grain at the end, wouldn't it tend to just split along the grain anyway? That's the weakest portion of the mortise. JMO. bill
Don't want to sidetrack the thread here.....just askin'

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post #9 of 21 Old 11-08-2010, 02:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
With only a 1/2" or so of straight grain at the end, wouldn't it tend to just split along the grain anyway? That's the weakest portion of the mortise. JMO. bill
Don't want to sidetrack the thread here.....just askin'

Without the little filler at the end, the whole mortise is less effective. With the three other surfaces, any strains would be minimized by the three sides. It's one of those harmonious things. I guess you can say that in doing many M&T's it gets apparent what would make a better pocket.










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post #10 of 21 Old 11-08-2010, 09:57 PM Thread Starter
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mortising machine

The nice thing about this machine I can start and stop and duplicate all my mortices in all the legs almost exactly. There is literally no place for the mortice to go except the way it went in. I really love this machine. I was reading another blog this morning about how do we do dovetails. I cheat and use a dovetail jig. I love mortice and tenons and I believe it is the strongest of all jointery. I may cheat but no one knows....opps now you do.
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post #11 of 21 Old 11-09-2010, 05:16 AM
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I'd probably run a steel threaded insert(tap wood dry,install w/epoxy) in leg and use a bolt through corner bracket.


Mortising machines are cool..........am looking for an old Wysong/Miles.Got a broken Jet drill press for free a few years ago.Machined replacement part,snagged a N.I.B.,oldish(matched the DP timeline)Jet mortise attachment off the "bay".Machined the table out of alum.Not in the league of yours but amazing how efective even the DP varieties are.BW
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post #12 of 21 Old 11-09-2010, 09:33 AM
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Bugman: What kind of Mortising machine is that? It looks awesome. Are they still available to purchase?

Thanks,

Kevin H.
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post #13 of 21 Old 11-10-2010, 06:43 AM Thread Starter
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mortising machine

The mortising machine is a Grizzly G0448. I just looked at the price and realized when I purchased mine it was $500 less. I make a lot of mission furniture and this is a time saving machine. You just can"t believe how accurate it is. I know when they say if you are hand cutting M & T's to cut the mortise first but in my case I can cut either way. If someone stole this machine from me I would go out tomorrow and buy another one.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Heav...th-Stand/G0448
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post #14 of 21 Old 11-12-2010, 01:23 AM
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Your joinery looks adequate to me and similar to how I might do it. I just plow the mortises in the legs down from the top with a dado or router.

I've built many pieces using this basic construction and it is very strong even without glue although I usually glue it.

Bret
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post #15 of 21 Old 11-12-2010, 05:35 AM
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Hey Bret, thanks

That was exactly my question a few posts above...
Thanks for your comment and the pictures. This method would eliminate the need for a dedicated mortise machine, (it's on my list however) As I said I don't think the joint would be significantly weaker this way, and would save time and could use the router table which is a more common tool. bill

You said " Your joinery looks adequate to me and similar to how I might do it. I just plow the mortises in the legs down from the top with a dado or router.

Yeah, it look like you guys studied woodworking under the same tree....

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post #16 of 21 Old 11-26-2010, 06:08 AM Thread Starter
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bracing update

I finished building the table and I am waiting for a better day to finish it. I still pinned the mortises with 5/16 hard maple dowell and plugging the hole with 3/8 in walnut plugs. The inside cross brace was screwed and glued and then drilled 2 1/2 deep for 1/2 in hard maple dowell. The cross brace is also hard maple. It may look busy but when you build a table for a customer you want it to last. You never know how much abuse it will receive.

After opening and closing the table while fitting the alignment pins I realized how sturdy the table feels. I am very happy with the end result. Now only time will tell. Thanks for your feedback.
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post #17 of 21 Old 11-26-2010, 06:20 AM
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Looks good...thanks for the update.










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post #18 of 21 Old 11-26-2010, 08:09 AM
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More pictures Please

How about some showing the top? You mentioned "sliders".
http://www.paxtonhardware.com/Wood-T...partments/874/
Does the top open up for adding additional leaves? Other details would also be great. Thanks, and nice work! bill

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post #19 of 21 Old 11-26-2010, 08:32 AM
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I agree, seeing those sliders would be interesting.










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post #20 of 21 Old 03-15-2013, 08:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lola Ranch View Post
Your joinery looks adequate to me and similar to how I might do it. I just plow the mortises in the legs down from the top with a dado or router.

I've built many pieces using this basic construction and it is very strong even without glue although I usually glue it.

Bret
I'm new to wood working. And I need to make a brace for my table like in this picture

Would you be so kind and tell the steps to make this brace?
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