Joe Shop

I'm over-the-hill but relatively new to woodworking. I'd like to get started sharpening things. My question is I have a 2-wheel grinder (3400 RPM ). Do I need a slow one ? What about new wheels for this one ? Does something like the WS3000 or 2000 require some other equipment to be able to do an OK job ?
I'm not dough heavy and would like to know what minimum stuff I will require.

Joe

Daren

What kind of "things" are you wanting to sharpen ? I don't know that a machine is needed for many items like plane irons/chisels...just a couple sharpening stones.

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johnep

Just treated myself to a set of diamond faced pad sanders. From 50 grit to 1,000. Got them to sharpen a Kyocera ceramic knife. Not had much luck with that so far but other steel kitchen knives coming up a treat. Can't match Daren's shaving yet but cutting tomatoes good.
I find sharpening a bit addictive.
johnep

TheRecklessOne

The work sharp 3000 is awesome! It's the fastest way to get things scary sharp.

There are some accessories that are definitely worth picking up. The buffing disk is perfect for finishing off the sharpening process with a little buffing compound. An extra glass disk or 2 are also worth the investment.

I work part time at the local Woodcraft and have access to a couple different sharpening tools, but haven't used anything but the work sharp in months!

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Gene Howe

Joe,
I'm a cheap b*****d. I use the "Scary Sharp" method. A piece of glass and several grits of sandpaper. It's good for things up to the width of a cabinet scraper.....although I don't sharpen them this way. No need.
Google Scary Sharp. Lots of info available.

Wood4Fun

you will overheat your tool if you use a regular grinder

Julian the woodnut

I use a grinder to get the initial angle ground on my chisels and plane blades. I suggest using one of the new friable wheels from norton. This will greatly help keep the tip from burning. Just make sure to have a cup of water to cool the blade frequently as you grind a new bevel, and don't sharpen it all the way to the edge. Save that part for the final honing on either a stone or sandpaper on glass(scary sharp method).

sankofa

Ive been reading that hollow grinding is a must...but I dont think so.

I believe the advantage of hollow grinding is less time honing....being a newbie...and an ignorant one at that....thats the only advantage I see....

I find sharpening time is quality time....I know the guys who earn their living with wood need to spend as little time sharpening but for a hobbyist....I think you can get by without hollow grinding.

I actually ruined a bevel a while back trying to hollow grind on my bench grinder... what a mess.....lol

About 45 minutes on my cheap silicon carbide course/fine stone and an older arkansas oilstone...and I had that chisel back in fine working order and I actually enjoyed the time spent repairing the damage I did with the grinder.

Im going to get some good stones....just cant decide over water, oil or diamond yet...maybe even sandpaper till I decide to invest in better stones.... but being only a hobbyist I think Im going to get by really well....and have some nice fine edges without resorting to hollow grinds and microbevels.

I think I could actually get by with the hardware store stones I have now.

I dont want to use power tools.....I want to do as much as I can by hand in a traditional manner.... though grinding wheels were available and used way back then...I dont believe they were or are an absolute neccesity...especially for a hobbyist who doesnt have time costing him money.

I also wouldnt invest in a power tool that you are going to be using just for hollow grinding chisels.....you say you are dough light....and buying a grinder for one purpose...especially if you lose interest in the hobby isnt economically feasible.

If I was just starting out....and I am..... and I didnt have any sharpening materials yet.... Id get a cheap silicon carbide stone for grinding bevels and probably go with scary sharp for honing.

Gerry KIERNAN

Hi Joe

You don't have to spend a lot of dough to get sharp tools. As mentioned, the "scary sharp" method works very well, and has very low startup costs. If your tools are badly damaged a small bench mounted belt sander with a reasonably fine grit will help establish your basic angles and edges, with less tendency to burn your cutting edge than with a grinder. After that "scary sharp" will do the rest.

Gerry