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Picket Fence, Rail Mortise, Router Template Picket Fence, Rail Mortise, Router Template
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Old 04-28-2009, 11:36 PM   #1
fungku
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Default Picket Fence, Rail Mortise, Router Template

Well,

I really wanted to have the rails of my picket fence in the posts. So, making a template for my router at the moment. However, I noticed my router bit is not centered inside the template guide. Anyone know why and how to fix this?

You can see a picture, some test pieces and that it almost fits (need some fine-tuning) but the fact that the bit/guide are not centered is throwing me off a bit.

Anyone?
Attached Thumbnails
picket-fence-rail-mortise-router-template-01.jpg   picket-fence-rail-mortise-router-template-02.jpg   picket-fence-rail-mortise-router-template-03.jpg   picket-fence-rail-mortise-router-template-04.jpg   picket-fence-rail-mortise-router-template-fence01.jpg  

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Old 04-29-2009, 02:00 AM   #2
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For clarification, It's a bushing guide and if you compare the gap on the NE side of the bit to the SW side of the bit you can see the difference.
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Old 04-29-2009, 09:11 AM   #3
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Looking at what you're describing isn't obvious to me. It's difficult to see that without measuring. It may be just an optical illusion. Your fit does look pretty good though. If you keep your router held in the same position (by positioning the handle/knob), it will ride on the same spot on the bushing, then the spacing will be the same.

If there is a variance in the bushing, it could be defective.






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Old 04-29-2009, 02:56 PM   #4
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Cabinetman is correct. I have a dadoe guide I use routinely. I always keep the same side of the router pressed against the guide. For your template this means you rotate the router around the template keeping the same part of the router guide bushing against the template. This will make your mortise match the template.
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Old 04-30-2009, 01:06 PM   #5
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You may be able to adjust your baseplate as well.

Porter Cables baseplates are notoriously hard to adjust. Its a difference of taking out the tapered heads screws, countersinking the baseplate and replacing with flat bottomed screws.

I haven't had to do it, but this how it was explained to me at an omnijig demo from my local woodcraft.

It looks like the through mortise is working out just fine though. You must be a perfectionist
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Old 05-01-2009, 02:41 AM   #6
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thanks guys, i'm either gonna fix it tomorrow or just drill a hole through the post and use a jigsaw
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Old 05-14-2009, 03:10 PM   #7
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Drilled and chiseled.







It'll be painted white soon (I hate painting over nice wood )
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Old 06-19-2009, 03:21 AM   #8
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All Finished :)







Did this the same time as the back deck.
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