Streamwinner

Here are two pics from the plans I've drawn up for a folding patio table. I haven't drawn in the hardware, but each leg will be attached to a folding bracket and the legs will fold under the table, exactly like a folding card table. I got 4 heavy-duty hinges that lock in both the stored and extended position.

I'd like your input on the table top. I'm going back and forth between clear pine and clear douglas fir (both fit my budget) and I was planning on gluing the joints with Titebond II. I also considered using biscuits or splines(see other post), though I've never built with them before. I was wondering about the strength of the joints given that the rails don't really support any of them.

Thoughts or suggestions?

Streamwinner

Oh yeah, and just FYI, this will be used outdoors in Southern California, so rain or other wet weather is not an issue. I also plan on folding it up and putting it in the garage between uses. Most likely uses are for occasional company card or board games, buffet table, or tea and crumpets.

Webster

Hi there Streamwinner,
Better late than never

I have to build a similar table out of cedar for a friend, .......if she ever get back to me with the height she needs.

My thoughts for your table are....
Douglas fir
I use biscuts without any problems
Half lap with a miter for the corners
Glue all the lengh wise boards
No glue on the end boards except on the half lap corners
Have a tenon for the boards on the end
As long as your joints are tight between the boards, the Titebond will hold

I don't know much about the brackets that you spoke of.
Another option is to make the rails wider, with a pocket in each corner to pop the legs in & out when needed..

Hope that's of some help,
Rick

Streamwinner

That helps a lot. Thank you, Rick.

I didn't even think about laps for the miters. That's a good suggestion. If I understand you correctly, you mentioned tennons for all the center lengthwise boards? What would be a recommended tennon size for a 1x4?

Webster

Glad to help SW ,

Assuming the actual size of the lumber is 3/4" x 3 1/2, I'd make the tenons 1/4" thick, and about 1" or 1 1/2" deep.

Just to be sure we are on the level ..... the mortise would go into the board that has the measure of 35 1/2 beside it along with the opposing board, and the tenons into the glued up boards.
By not using glue on the tenons, it will allow the boards to freely swell and contract a bit. Half lap joints are quite strong to hold it all together.

So what I would do is......glue up all the inside boards, then cut your tenon in them. Get the mortise and half laps cut for the outside boards. Dry fit., and if all is good, glue & clamp away.

Hope that makes sense
Rick

Bob156235

Do yourself a favor, use a composite material or vinyl - not real wood (especially soft woods) Purchase the color of choice, built it once and keep it for life!