Bentleys

I am trying to join two pieces of stock that don't have even edges. That is, when you put the two pieces together there is a small gap. I am using a biscuit joiner, but I don't have a planer.

What is the best way to square these two pieces up since I don't really have a tool to do so?

Short of that, would it be a good idea to fill the gap with wood putty? Or would that make it look bad?

Thanks

woodnthings

If you don't have a "jointer" which is what you need rather than a planer, You will have to use a hand plane and a straight edge. There are 2 ways, one is to make the boards straight by checking with the straight edge and planing down the high spots until the straight edge showns no daylight under it. You must keep the plane square to the face edge of the board using a guide block or short piece of angle or by eye. The 2nd way is to just simply plane down the high spots on one board until it mates with the other and shows no daylight between them. Grain direction will tell you which way to plane without tear out.
Do use a good Titebond type yellow glue and do not clamp with excessive pressure, just enough to squeeze some glue out, but not all. Let it sit for 4 hrs or so, overnight will give max strength. You can use cauls to keep the boards aligned at the ends, and "hopefully" they are not bowed in the middle, sice that will raise another issue, and you will have to plane the bow out. Seems like a simple process at first, but it's centuries old and you're not the first to face the challenge. Good Luck, bill
BTW You didn't say whether you have a Table saw, I just assumed you didn't, but there is a method to joint the board on the table saw using a long extended fence which must be straight, and putting the concave side toward the fence and taking a fine cut off the opposite side. By flipping after each successive pass the board will get straighter each time.

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cabinetman

WELCOME TO THE FORUM

I'm thinking you meant to say 'jointer'. Biscuits won't do it. If you have a table saw, you could attach a straight edge to the opposite edge and run it through and get a straight sawcut. This could also be done with a handheld circular saw. If you are handy with a handplane you could get matched edges.

Bentleys

I do have a table saw, but I find it difficult to remove really thin edges because it makes my fence too close to the blade. A lot of times the blade will hit the fence.

Is there a trick to this?

By the way, I did mean jointer.

GeorgeC

You should ALWAYS put the wide portion of the board against the fence. Then you can do what Cabinet man suggests. If the opposite edge of the board is already straight then you can eliminate attaching the straight edge.

G

woodnthings

This video will show you how on the table saw, but there are other methods as suggested such a attaching a board or straight edge to the curved board and placing the straight edge against the fence to rip the opposite side straight. Your blade should NEVER contact the fence unless it is a sacrificial fence which is meant to be cut into. bill

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If you're not making dust, you're gathering it. After I reread my own posts, I agree with myself even more.

Bentleys

Thanks for ideas! I'll give those a try.

NathanT

Another option is to use a router table with an 1/8th of an inch shim on the outfeed side or using a straight edge guide clamped below the workpiece and a flush trim router bit.

But, if you have the space and intend on further projects I strongly advise starting to hunt craigslist for a reasonable jointer and planer. Not only will they let you make tight fitting straight joints but turning rough lumber into S4S is the number one way to reduce your costs.

Example Red Oak: Paying $3-4 per linear foot to a big box store for a 6" board that has significant bowing or warping versus $2-$3 per board foot (12"x12" of wood) means that you can write off the costs of used tools fairly rapidly.

WarnerConstInc.

First off, I don't know who that was in the video but, was he wearing cut-off jean shorts?

Second, I know this is beyond what is going on here, sort of. For stright ling ripping rough stock or even field jointing 2 boards, there is nothing easier, or faster than a rail saw.

woodnthings

He's made more furniture and cool stuff than you can imagine!
http://www.antiquesbuiltdaily.com/
He also has a ton of videos on You Tube of various techniques.
http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/vi...yer.php?type=1
http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/ca...=Kehoe_Jig.flv
Some are posted in our Video section. You may not like his shorts, but that's between you and him. I'd let him know. bill

__________________
If you're not making dust, you're gathering it. After I reread my own posts, I agree with myself even more.

gregL

well, this attachment didn't work. I was trying to send a pdf file but cannot seem to make it work

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Who Dat...Every step of any project should be considered your masterpiece if you want the finished product to reflect the quality of your work. Have a nice day, unless you have other plans! "Life isn't about waiting for the storm to pass. It's about learning to dance in the rain."
Greg Little

mics_54

anytime I have a problem like this on pieces that I can't put through the table saw I use a straightedge and hand held router.

woodnthings

You can make a straightening board for use with a circular saw or a router: http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodvisi...tid=1442789968
This is a clever tip and jig. bill

__________________
If you're not making dust, you're gathering it. After I reread my own posts, I agree with myself even more.