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First Tenons With a Dado Blade First Tenons With a Dado Blade
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Old 01-06-2009, 06:10 PM   #1
Tom5151
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Default First Tenons With a Dado Blade

Hello,

I am taking my first ever shot at mortise and tenon joinery for a table i am building. I am going to use a dado blade on the table saw to cut the tenons. This seems relatively easy and safe to me. Is there anything I am missing or should be aware of before I start?

Any insight would be great.

Tom
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Old 01-06-2009, 08:33 PM   #2
Rob
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What kind of set-up are you planning on using to make the cuts?
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Old 01-06-2009, 08:48 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob View Post
What kind of set-up are you planning on using to make the cuts?
Hi Rob,

From the demonstration I saw it's pretty simple I think. Going to use the miter guage to run the stock over the dado for the cheeks and shoulders. Sneak up on the cut until they fit the mortise well.
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Old 01-06-2009, 08:59 PM   #4
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You will need some sort of stop to get consistent lengths of cut. You can use your fence but if the fence isn't exactly parallel with the table, you get a different length cut for your shoulders and cheeks. You'll get that miserable little shoulder that you can take a chisel to but that can end up making more problems.
Let's say the fence is used as the stop and it leans into the blade by 1/64" of an inch. So, you cut the shoulders first (stock is face down). The stock is 3/4" thick and you make your cuts. Turn the stock on edge to make the cheek cuts (let's say your stock is 3" wide). The top edge of your stock hits a higher point on your fence, making it a shorter distance to the blade.
I hope this makes sense.
As always, practice on scrap first. I use a scrap piece of stock that is the same dimension as the real thing. Once I have everything set where it makes a good, snug fit, I go about the final cuts with the good wood.
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Old 01-07-2009, 07:46 AM   #5
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To minimize tear out, you might consider first cutting the inside most part of the tenon with your regular blade then the rest with the dado blade.
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Old 01-07-2009, 08:43 AM   #6
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thanks very much guys....that makes great sense. I am going to try this method for the first time....is there a more accurate, preferred method for the tenons?

I saw it done and seemed pretty easy and safe but if there is another method that gets better results and I dont have to buy jigs that are too expensive I am certainly open to trying what works....
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Old 01-07-2009, 11:01 AM   #7
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I normally use a Delta tenoning jig, but if I didn't have it, I'd probably use my dado blade. However, I'd probably make the cheek cuts with my band saw.
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Old 01-07-2009, 11:36 AM   #8
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I normally use a Delta tenoning jig, but if I didn't have it, I'd probably use my dado blade. However, I'd probably make the cheek cuts with my band saw.

What is your opinion of the Delta jig?
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Old 01-07-2009, 11:55 AM   #9
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got it.....yeah i am on a bit of a budget so for now I am going to see what kind of results i get with the dado blade.....if not so good I may try the Delta jig
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Old 01-07-2009, 12:52 PM   #10
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I've been very happy with the Delta jig. The thing I like the best is that when I start making the tenon, I can start proud of the thickness I need then ease into the exact thickness because the jig allows for very slight adjustments.
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Old 01-07-2009, 03:20 PM   #11
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Quote:
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I've been very happy with the Delta jig. The thing I like the best is that when I start making the tenon, I can start proud of the thickness I need then ease into the exact thickness because the jig allows for very slight adjustments.
awesome.....i'll see how the TS and dado method works and go from there.....

I am finding that since this is literally my first real joinery project and first time using a router, dado, joiner, etc., I am a little gun shy and hesitant making that first cut into the real production wood. I have practiced and will do more so, but I find myself actually being a little intimidated. I am measuring things a million times, checking layout lines 5 times a day...asking way to many question here.....lol......it's nuts...i just have to dig in and get dirty.....lol
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Old 01-07-2009, 04:29 PM   #12
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Thats the whole thing Tom. A new lesson with every mistake.
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Old 01-12-2009, 09:31 PM   #13
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Rob the staggered shoulder on the tenon is the exact problem I was having. I checked my fence with a plastic triangle and it showed parallel to the table,although its obvious from the cuts something is off don't know what tho. So I've taken a different tack I used a stop block on my miter gauge to define the length of mortise and am getting much better results,any difference is almost unnoticeable.Is this method used by other woodworkers,with acceptable results. Don't have Norm's number so I cant ask his opinion. GOD BLESS
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Old 01-13-2009, 11:07 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larry View Post
Rob the staggered shoulder on the tenon is the exact problem I was having. I checked my fence with a plastic triangle and it showed parallel to the table,although its obvious from the cuts something is off don't know what tho. So I've taken a different tack I used a stop block on my miter gauge to define the length of mortise and am getting much better results,any difference is almost unnoticeable.Is this method used by other woodworkers,with acceptable results. Don't have Norm's number so I cant ask his opinion. GOD BLESS
Hey Larry,

Not sure based upon my very limited experience but that certainly sounds like a good alternative method.
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