JaceW

My wife and I are building our Dining room table. It's a trestle table with two pedestals on each end. She wants to have a 6" x 1/2" taper on the bottom supports and the undersupports for the top. I'm perplexed on how to do it. Does anyone know of a jig that I can make or another process that may work better. These boards are up to 8" wide and my table saw will only cut up to 3". I've heard it's difficult to do with a band saw too. I'd like a clean cut if possible.

Any advice??? Thanks,
Jace

Attached Files

dining table-Model.pdf (41.4 KB, 161 views)

cabinetman

One suggestion is cut as far as you can with the table saw, and finish the rest with a hand plane.

cabinetman

Here is another way of doing it. Cut the panel flat on the table saw and make incremental cuts of descending/ascending heights, like cutting notches, and then chip them off with a chisel, and clean up with a handplane or block sander or belt sander.
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Jack Brannon

Could you do it on a joiner-planer, if you have one? I have made several tapered pieces on my 6" machine that worked. I once made some mink stretching boards that way.

pianoman

Old School is good school Cabinetman!! Great idea!!! That would be the way I would do it. Then follow with a plane. Hand work...small foot print!!!!! Rick

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tmuli

If you don't have a jointer, lay it out and do the same thing with a hand plane. Just keep checking for squareness.

Stick

Try one of these...

Leo G

Make a jig to do it with a router. Then all you need to do is a little sanding at the end. It would be very repeatable and consistant.

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LarrySch

I would go with the router also. Make a jig that would hold the wood piece at the proper angle and then clear the material with the router. This way the wood would be at the angle you want but the router and jig would be level.

For the life of me I can not figure out how the method Stick showed would work?

Go to this location and watch Bob and Rick do the same thing, but to a table leg. The jig would be the same as your wanting for the piece your working on. They are making flues in the table leg. You may have to register - its free ,and then go to the "Router Workshop - Tear drop table - you will see the jig.

http://www.woodworkingchannel.com/do...eo_library.php

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Larry

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MrRodeoCC

I agree use a router, a simple slanted box jig shaped to fit over the area you want to remove, make an extended base for your router @20" by 10" (I make mine from 1/4 Luann and use strips of scrap hard wood to reinforce the edge so it doesn't flex) then use the router as a milling machine, moving back and forth over the area to remove the unwanted material. it will get you to the point of sanding machining marks off and be repeatable for all the pieces.

Jack Brannon

JaceW, after I talked to you I decided to make a router table and wanted the legs to extend outside the edge of the table a fraction for a support factor. I remembered your questions about your table legs being beveled so I laid out my legs(Oak 2x4's) the way I wanted them cut. I then took my sawzall(reciprocating saw) and sawed the legs edgewise down, following the layout lines as close as I possibly could. I was surprised when the first one came out really close so I did the rest the same way. All I had to do then was straighten them up a little with my 90 degree sander and they are on the table. I routed my first piece yesterday. Maybe you could try this if you havent already got them done.