kevspyder

I'm making a coffee table and was wondering whether I can get away with just a glue up for the joints or should I use biscuits?

Attached Thumbnails

 

mics_54

Use biscuits..end grain doesn't glue as well.

woodnthings

Two choices: Mortise and tenon or splined miter. Biscuits won't add strength. bill
I am partial to this joint for a "frame" since it does not favor either the long axis or the short length. See this link: splined face miter joint

__________________
If you're not making dust, you're gathering it. After I reread my own posts, I agree with myself even more.

cabinetman

I would use half lap joints.

mics_54

biscuits will be fine..I imagine a table top has an apron and legs etc.
spline of halflaps would look nice tho.

garryswf

You may even consider a lock mitre, i have used it on projects like the one you show in your picture. What i like most about this type of joint is there is no visable end grain on the finished product and i feel you have plenty of glue surface. JMO

GeorgeC

Much depends upon whether the outside of the joint is going to show in the finished piece. Or are you going to have an edging all around the ourside. When I made a couple of coffee tables I drove a long screw through the joint. I was using a decorative molding around the outside.

G

mics_54

After looking at the OP I'm not even sure it this is the top or the side of a table.

Al B Cuttn Wud

A couple more quick/easy recommendations:

1. glue up a little, and use screws and wood plugs. Quick easy.

2. pocket screws on the bottom or the insides with plugs

Not sure exactly what orientation of wood in your picture with the thickness/profiles but trying to add some options.

woodnthings

If it's the side, then the connection to the apron and cross members all gets tied up in the choice of joints, so that decision becomes crucial.
Phinds has the best explanation of Joinery I've ever seen with all the types and examples: splined face miter joint is just one. Here's the link:http://www.hobbithouseinc.com/person...ineryterms.htm
bill

__________________
If you're not making dust, you're gathering it. After I reread my own posts, I agree with myself even more.

Tony B

A half lap joint is one of my favorites. They are strong, attractive, quick and easy to make with a dado blade.

__________________
Tony B

http://www.thetexaswoodworks.com

Joinwood

Good day to you from across the Pond.
First to answer this simple question--there are some other considerations first that need thinking about and answering:-
-1 what timber are you intending to use, would it be a softwood or hardwood?
-2 is it a man made material i.e. veneered MDF-plywood-chipboard/particale board?
-3 what are the sizes of the material/diamensions to make this top?
-4 what is the construction of the under frame?
-5 I am assuming the edges will be seen correct yes/no?
-6 what is the overall sizes of the table?
-7 is the table just to hold cups of tea/coffee -glass's or is there a chance it may be used as a seat?

Cheers

georgewoodie

kevspyder:

I am just now working on a coffee table for my daughter and I have done the edge trim with teak. The edge ends are a miter join which I think will make the table look better.

I assume that your coffee table will end up in a living room of some sort. It will be on display whenever anyone is in the room. Care not taken with appearance at this point will have to be lived with for a long time.

To glue the mitered trim, I first cut the pieces to fit. Then I dry fit them using masking tape to hold the pieces in place. Next, the fit is examined to see if it is satisfactory. Better to make any corrections now rather than after.

With all the edges in place, I installed clamps first, to the narrow edges across the top, then to the long edges across the top so all are clamped. Next, I removed the clamps that held the narrow edge trim, installed some guide blocks and then added one clamp across the table at the end to hold these guide blocks so the were proud of the table end. Now when I fit the edge trim, the guide blocks will not allow the edge to slip or move and the edge will be in the correct place. Clamp and let it sit for a couple of hours. Now do the same for the other narrow end of the coffee table and clamp. Leave these clamps in place over night or longer if you have the patience.

Next day or so, repeat the above for the long edges. The guide blocks help guide the trim piece into the right location.

That is a bit of fussing but you will be happy with the final result.

Biscuits would help you align the trim if they are a tight fit. However, to have the trim flush with the table top, either lay your top face down on a flat work bench, then the trim can be pushed down to the same plane and you will not need biscuits. Or you could once again use guide blocks held to the table top so that the trim can not float above your desired position.

I hope this is of help.

Woodie

[IMG]file:///var/folders/lg/lg5NlMJRGUaChZBe1-5JdU+++TI/-Tmp-/com.apple.mail.drag/P1010356.jpg[/IMG][IMG]file:///var/folders/lg/lg5NlMJRGUaChZBe1-5JdU+++TI/-Tmp-/com.apple.mail.drag-T0x7102e0.tmp.1WuhOG/P1010356.jpg[/IMG]

georgewoodie

kevspyder:

Here are two photos showing the miter join and the guide blocks I wrote about.

This is an attempt to post pictures, something I have intended to do for some time.

Woodie



file:///Users/allan/Desktop/Coffee%20Table%20Top/

cabinetman

The link doesn't work.

georgewoodie

cabinetman:

Sorry all that I could not get my pictures posted.

IU willtry to get some help.

Woodie

april-1986

Hi, new to woodworking and would like to buy a joiner that is easy to use. I'm told this is the best way to put a 6ft.X 4ft. table top together. Do you agee. Also do you reccomend putting 6 ft.long planks together or joining them 4ft.? Thanks

__________________
Devis mutuelle familiale des cheminots fr |Devis mutuelle familial vauban

georgewoodie

april-1986:

To make a table top that is 4 feet by 6 feet, I would suggest that you start with material that is longer than 6 foot. Use 8 foot material. Boards are usually sold in 2 foot increments. The extra length will let you trim to size and eliminate any snipe that might occur.

Then rip the boards into convenient widths so that you can run one face over a jointer. This will give you one truly flat surface that you can use as referance to square and flatten the rest of the material. Use the jointer to next shave one edge so that you now have one face and an edge at 90º. Next, run the second face on a planer. Now you will have two flat faces that are equal in thickness all along the boards as well as being parallel. Run each piece through the planer before making any depth adjustment so that all will be the same thickness.

Now you can assemble your cut boards so that the growth rings will alternate. Examine the pattern if you will finish with a clear material such as varnish. This alternate ring configuration will retard warp as moisture is taken on and released from your table top during it's life.

Now dry fit and mark the top so you will not make a mistake when you glue up. Mark lightly to save you some sanding later on. At this ppoint you could use dowel or biscuits to help align if you wish. My preference is dowel.

At this point, I like to clamp my boards to a reference form that will hold my project flat, allow me to assemble, glue and add the rest of the assembly,clamping each as I go along.

I hope that I hve given you my take on tabletop assembly.

I am an amateur hobby wood worker so take my comments with that in mind.

I am sure that there are many others on this site who can also bive you their take.

Woodie

remorg6gun

need a good biscut joiner? i dont think so. they will add nothing to the project .once the boards are jointed on a jointer ie edge planed and stratned proceed to glue up. if you use edge banding be sure the end band can float.

canoeguy

I would use Festool Domino's... unbelievable, easy fast and super strong.