Show off your DIY Cyclones / Separators. - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 18 Old 04-04-2011, 01:30 PM Thread Starter
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Show off your DIY Cyclones / Separators.

This is the thread to do that. Show off your cyclones / separators that you shop built. Anything from a simple trash can lid you punched holes for ports in to a full on build of a Pentz Cyclone and everything in between, let's see 'em!

Mine is a 55 gallon drum based Thien separator. I started out with 4" top in / out and it worked fairly well...




I later decided I wanted the absolute max that my DC could offer, but was leery at the time of going to full out 6", so first thing I did was to pick up the DC so that the impeller to separator run was MUCH shorter, and involved fewer bends...

so I went with 5" in / out, and converted to side inlet...


I have been using this rig now for a year and a half like this, I can't count the drum empty / fill cycles I have done, but it has been at least 5, and so far, I have less than 1 cup of material in the lower bag of my DC after blowing the filter down...

What's your rig?

Interested in my woodworking, workshop and whatnot? See http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com, want to see my other interests such as hunting, fishing, off roading, and camping? See http://wildersport-outdoors.blogspot.com
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post #2 of 18 Old 04-04-2011, 02:05 PM
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I just bought a drum exactly like yours and plan to use it as a separator. Just a couple of questions about yours.

1, How did you measure acuurately enough the inside diameter of the barrel (since it tapers some) so you could build your baffle?

2. Where were you able to find 5 inch fittings and flex hose? Are the fittings PVC or metal? Lowes has some 5" metal stuff, I just bought a 5" to 4" mertal transition from them.

3. How did you seal the fittings? Silicone?

4. On the side entrance, does the inlet pipe extend into the barrel any or just end at the cutout?
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post #3 of 18 Old 04-04-2011, 03:48 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by xphnmn View Post
I just bought a drum exactly like yours and plan to use it as a separator. Just a couple of questions about yours.

1, How did you measure acuurately enough the inside diameter of the barrel (since it tapers some) so you could build your baffle?
Measuring tape. It gets close enough... Seriously, I used a fabric tape, the one my wife uses for sewing, pull it taut. I am within 1/8" side to side, which is close enough for rock & roll...

Quote:
2. Where were you able to find 5 inch fittings and flex hose? Are the fittings PVC or metal? Lowes has some 5" metal stuff, I just bought a 5" to 4" mertal transition from them.
The fittings are 5" snap lock steel from Lowes, the flex hose is from Grizzly. I do NOT like the particular flex hose, it was cheap enough, and it does the job, but it is very stiff... I would rather get the clear stuff instead... Save yourself the money and aggravation of using the black hose and use the more expensive, but MUCH nicer to deal with heavy clear vinyl hose... Oh, get a HVAC duct crimper, you will need to crimp down the fittings a bit to get 5" to slip over it...

Quote:
3. How did you seal the fittings? Silicone?
GE Clear Silicone Adhesive Caulk. Make CERTAIN you clean the Snap Loc pipe with vinegar, or rubbing alcohol prior to using the sealant on it. The pipe is coated in some sort of oil that will prevent adhesion of the sealant if you don't clean it off all the way...

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4. On the side entrance, does the inlet pipe extend into the barrel any or just end at the cutout?
It is flush with the side of the barrel.

Interested in my woodworking, workshop and whatnot? See http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com, want to see my other interests such as hunting, fishing, off roading, and camping? See http://wildersport-outdoors.blogspot.com
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post #4 of 18 Old 04-16-2011, 04:00 PM
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I have a couple of the blue food grade barrels too but the tops are not removable. Did you modify yours?

--
When you think about it, God has to be the best inventor of all time. He took a rib from Adam and made a loudspeaker.
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post #5 of 18 Old 04-16-2011, 11:31 PM
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Here be my setup, pretty simple and effective. I vent right to the outside.



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post #6 of 18 Old 04-17-2011, 09:28 PM
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nicely done Nate. what is the longest run in your system?
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post #7 of 18 Old 04-18-2011, 07:33 AM
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nicely done Nate. what is the longest run in your system?


Not real far, about 20', most my machinery is on the other side of that wall.
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post #8 of 18 Old 04-18-2011, 11:52 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RetiredLE View Post
I have a couple of the blue food grade barrels too but the tops are not removable. Did you modify yours?
Nope. Mine was an "open head" barrel instead of a closed head. I have seen guys cut the tops off of closed head barrels to use them though...

Interested in my woodworking, workshop and whatnot? See http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com, want to see my other interests such as hunting, fishing, off roading, and camping? See http://wildersport-outdoors.blogspot.com
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post #9 of 18 Old 04-20-2011, 02:34 AM
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I am confused about the shelf in the Thein system. How long is the the widest part of the shelf? Is the eblow a 60 degree or 90 degree? I am sorry if this has been asked, maybe I am trying to hard and making it more difficult that it needs to be. Thanks for the info.

Mike
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post #10 of 18 Old 04-25-2011, 01:00 AM
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I was amazed at how well it works

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post #11 of 18 Old 04-25-2011, 01:21 AM
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Glad to hear that it works, I cannot figure out the shelf measurements to see any difference in my collection.
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post #12 of 18 Old 04-25-2011, 01:05 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry, I have been away for the weekend. I am not sure what you mean by shelf, unless you are talking about the baffle itself? (the round thing with the step). The part where it steps in runs for 240 degrees, and depending on the material you mostly process, and how will be the width of your narrower part, which is called the "Drop Slot".

In my unit, I simply measured across my drum, to come up with the initial baffle diameter, cut out the circle, marked off 120 degrees, and then routed out 1.5" back everything that wasn't in that 120 degrees. I squared the corners up with my japanese pull saw.

The elbow is a 90 degree bend IF you come in from the top. You don't have to, you can do a side inlet like mine...

I can go blue in the face talking this out, but I wrote up a pretty decent HOWTO and put it on Phil's forum HERE.

Interested in my woodworking, workshop and whatnot? See http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com, want to see my other interests such as hunting, fishing, off roading, and camping? See http://wildersport-outdoors.blogspot.com
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post #13 of 18 Old 04-25-2011, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
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Is that a flower pot you are using as a reducer?

Interested in my woodworking, workshop and whatnot? See http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com, want to see my other interests such as hunting, fishing, off roading, and camping? See http://wildersport-outdoors.blogspot.com
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post #14 of 18 Old 04-26-2011, 07:51 AM
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Is that a flower pot you are using as a reducer?





Stolen from my wifes stash, it was the perfect size to fit over the lip of the DC.
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post #15 of 18 Old 04-26-2011, 08:30 AM
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Nate,
How difficult is it to empty your trash can?
Is your trash can lid attached to the cyclone bottom? With a rigid connection?
I'm about to build a similar setup with an Oneida cyclone and a drum, but am having difficulties envisioning how to detach the lid from the drum. It's going to have to raise / lower to get the drum in and out.

Dale
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post #16 of 18 Old 04-26-2011, 01:00 PM
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Thank you for the explanation of the baffle, I can never never remember the word baffle so I said shelf. The degrees measurement is exactly what I needed to know. I had missed the link in your post, better get myself new glasses. Thank you again.

Mike
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post #17 of 18 Old 04-26-2011, 09:04 PM
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Nate,
How difficult is it to empty your trash can?
Is your trash can lid attached to the cyclone bottom? With a rigid connection?
I'm about to build a similar setup with an Oneida cyclone and a drum, but am having difficulties envisioning how to detach the lid from the drum. It's going to have to raise / lower to get the drum in and out.

Its just a piece of 6" aluminum flex line from the Lowes A/C section. The lid to the can simply lifts off the can and the can pulls out, there is no mechanical attachment between the can and the lid. The suction from the DC sucks the lid to the can, it will actually lift the can up when its empty. I will say the seal between the can lid, the cyclone and the 6" flex line has been the toughest one to keep sealed. I am about at 1/2" of duct tape at this point. Keep that in mind when designing yours, soon I plan on CNC cutting some better fitting, as well as build a deck, re-do a bathroom, ect. ect...........
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post #18 of 18 Old 04-28-2011, 02:39 PM
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.... as well as build a deck, re-do a bathroom, ect. ect...........
Ah Nate, that endless list of chores! I understand completely. It never seems to shrink, does it?
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