Making Your Dust Collector Self Cleaning - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum

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post #1 of 29 Old 02-07-2017, 07:51 PM Thread Starter
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Making Your Dust Collector Self Cleaning

Part 1
How to make your Dust Collector semi-automatic and fully automatic.
Let's start with semi-automatic I have listed all the parts you will need in the pictures
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/attac...275817&thumb=1
Parts from Home Depot or Lowes
you will also need some 1/4-20 bolt and nuts that are 1,2,3 inches long
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/attac...275809&thumb=1
Parts From Amazon
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/attac...275833&thumb=1
Parts From McMaster Carr

1- You will need to remove the Canister Filter from the Dust Collector
2- Then remove the Cleaning Handle
3- Drill the center 8mm hole of (27 teeth 48 mm outer dia pulley) to the same diameter of the shaft that the cleaning handle was attached to. On the grizzle machine that is a 15/32 or 12mm Hole.
4- Attach the pulley (27 teeth 48 mm outer dia pulley) to the cleaning handle shaft
5- Attach motor bracket to the motor
6- Attach the other pulley to the Geared Motor
7- Attach the motor bracket to the L bracket
8- The belt that is in the cart is one that works for grizzly 19 5/8 canister. If your canister is different diameter get a hold of me I can calculate the length of belt for your Machine.
9- put the belt over both pulleys and pull it tight to the side and mark the hole location. Drill the holes a little over sided so you can tight the belt
10- Drill two hole like the picture and attach the bracket with bolt and nuts
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/attac...275841&thumb=1
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post #2 of 29 Old 02-07-2017, 07:54 PM Thread Starter
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post #3 of 29 Old 02-07-2017, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
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post #4 of 29 Old 02-07-2017, 08:11 PM Thread Starter
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Pictures of Semi-Automated
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post #5 of 29 Old 02-07-2017, 08:12 PM Thread Starter
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Part need for Semi-Automated
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post #6 of 29 Old 02-07-2017, 08:19 PM Thread Starter
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11- wiring the motor, switch, and power supply together.
12- Wire you will need 20 gauge to 18 gauge wire found at Amazon, Home depot, Lowes
13- Wiring diagram is attached
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/attac...275905&thumb=1
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/attac...275897&thumb=1
14- by soldering or using crimp connector attach the wire as the diagram shows
15- Removing two of the three paddles in the canister
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/attac...275953&thumb=1
16- Mount the switch where it is easy to access and you now have a semi-automated cleaning system

Let me start by saying you don't need to learn to program an Arduino. I can upload the program to a board and mail to you or you can get the program from me and upload it yourself.

To make fully automated you are going to need to access one leg of the 220V plug or 120 V plug depending on your dust collector. this can be done on the remote control or the plug on the wall. I will finish explaining what parts you need and where to get them tomorrow

Attached is some pictures of the system
Also canister filters with up and down brush cleaning system can be automatic with other parts and longer belt drive. This could also be done with stepper motor and a screw drive.
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post #7 of 29 Old 02-07-2017, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
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So the way that the automated system works there are 5 parts of the system. The CS-30 is used to determine if the power to the dust collector is on or off. It does this by picking up a magnetic field around one of the power legs of the power cord. I installed a CS-30 on one leg of the 220V plug for the machine.https://alpscontrols.com/Product/Pro...1&ProdID=38341
The second part is the Arduino controller there are 3 different timers that can be changed in the Arduino. First, you can change how long the dust collector needs to run to do a cleaning, Second, delayed the start time for the cleaning for the dust collector and Third, how long the cleaning cycle goes for.
The other three parts are the Power supply, Relay and geared motor which we talked about in the semi-automated system.
wiring is easy just need to connect the wires like the wiring diagram shows.
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post #8 of 29 Old 02-07-2017, 08:31 PM Thread Starter
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Sneak peek at the fully automated blast gate system for about $65 to $70 per gate that includes the current sensor.
It is also fully automated and has 6 and 4 blast gates.
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post #9 of 29 Old 02-07-2017, 09:46 PM Thread Starter
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post #10 of 29 Old 02-10-2017, 05:16 PM Thread Starter
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I will finish this with a youtube video that will go through the build of the system.
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post #11 of 29 Old 02-10-2017, 10:54 PM
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The automatic cleaner look neat. I really like the automatic blast gates. The cs30 sensor looks similar to something I was planning to sense current on tools with a hall sensor. I'm still hoping to find a way to do it without having to split my tool cords or dig in the 120v wiring. I'm currently tly leaning towards piggybacking second outlets off my originals that are sensored to run the gates and collector.

I like the idea of pnumatic actuators for the gates I just don't want to run air lines everywhere. I was thinking about making dc linear actuators out of little dc motors and all thread and limiter switches all controlled with an arduino mega. I think you and I are working on very similar projects.
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post #12 of 29 Old 02-12-2017, 12:18 AM Thread Starter
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I have used hall sensors but didn't like that power is cut and attached to both sides of the hall sensor. I don't want to have one leg of a 220v machine go out because a cheap china hall sensor can't handle the power. Also, you will need to deal with the fact that its AC power, not DC this can be done but the code gets longer. There is also a chance that you can get 110v AC power back into the Arduino Mega low but is there. The CS-30 is rated for 600V main power boxes and the wires have heavy insulation. This will reduce the chance of 110v or 220 V power getting to the Arduino.
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post #13 of 29 Old 02-12-2017, 01:27 AM
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There are current sensor that use hall effect sensors that dont require cutting into any wire they either clip too or around the hot line your sensing. I supose the 120v could induct into the sensor or low voltage wire going back to the logic board but thats not super likely.

Here is my favorite example
https://moderndevice.com/new-products/current-sensor/

And here is a simple to use one.
http://www.robotshop.com/en/seeedstu...sicaApck8P8HAQ

I bet even that cs-30 is using a hall sensor to measure the magnetic feild created by the electrons moving through it.

I am also aware of the sensors that your talking about that require cutting and soldering the AC line to the sensor board and those are just not good for this application at all.

Why compressed air in stead of dc motor actuators? Man i would worry too much about leaks.
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post #14 of 29 Old 02-13-2017, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
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The first is interesting I would be interested to know how it works the two wires will cancel any magnetic field. The other one is no different from the one that I am using just split vs not split but has a hall sensor.
I would guess that the first one works like the IVAC system works good for large tools, but not good for small tools that don't use much amperage on start up.

No hall sensor in the CS-30 it is a magnetic relay that is why only two wires are used.
Hall sensor would need 3 wires but if you use a hall sensor you can also know amperage.

I thought you were talking about this hall sensor
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post #15 of 29 Old 02-13-2017, 09:07 PM Thread Starter
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As for installing they just go in the plug and attach to one of the wires. half of the CS-30 are in the breaker box because it was easy to put them in it. I installed all of them in 25 minutes with no problem they are rated for use in a breaker box.
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post #16 of 29 Old 02-14-2017, 01:02 AM
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Installing the sensor in the breaker box is really clever idea. Generally plenty of room in there and easy axcess.

For my shop needs im probably going to add wall boxes and outlets that piggyback off outlets i currently have because most of my tools do not have dedicated circuits. This way i can have an outlet that does turn on DC and blast gates and one that doesn't in the same area.

The sensor that zip ties onto a cord has a whole article explaning some of how it works. Basically it uses two hall sensors at 90 degrees to each other to read the tiny amount of magnetic feild not canceled out by the 2 wires. I just looked it up and its published spec says 5 watts/.42amps ar 120v min sensitivity. Max sensitivity os basically infinity to read on/off but to read actual amp draw somewhere around 10 amps.
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post #17 of 29 Old 02-15-2017, 07:31 AM Thread Starter
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As for your other question on air cylinders vs motors?
Air cylinders only need one electronic connection a 5-way solenoid valve and the gate will open fully and close fully every time as long as it doesn't get stuck but even then it doesn't lose its tracking.
On a Drive motor if the gate gets stuck and the motor has enough torque it will break the gate. If not the gate will not close so you fix that with two limit switches or using a stepper motor. The only problem with a step is it can lose steppes and then the gate is not closing or opening fully. Adding limits switches make that gate a lot more complicated with a lot more wiring and you would need to size the motor so if stuck it can't break the gate. That is why I chose air cylinders no tracking the position of the gate every time it open or closes. Also, force is controlled easily by air pressure.
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post #18 of 29 Old 02-15-2017, 12:08 PM
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I plan to use DC motors with limit switches. Have all the limit switches on one circuit at open and one curcuit for close to minimize pin usage and hopefully simplifiy coding. I thought about encoder stepper motors so that there is feedback that would know if the gates is open, closed, missing steps or stuck but those motors are pricy. A good self cleaning gate shouldn't stick and if i break a few in the testing phase then its lesson learned. I currently have cheap plastic gates but if break them im gonna start building my own gates out of plywood similar seen on many woodworker utube channels.

I am not aginst air I just tend to have bad luck with getting 100% leak free with the large amount of fittings needed. Your photo looks loke your using a slide in compression fitting similiar to a sharkbite? Those are probably much more reliable than threaded connections. Also could you charge your system and run it closed loop without needed hooked up to shop airlines?
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post #19 of 29 Old 02-15-2017, 07:06 PM Thread Starter
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A closed loop I really don't know what your asking,
Yes the system is hooked to my 80-gallon air compressor
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post #20 of 29 Old 02-15-2017, 07:10 PM Thread Starter
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SCI compression fittings are what I have used but there are ones on amazon for less
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