Improvement on my TS (craftsman 315.228390) - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum

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post #1 of 26 Old 02-05-2012, 12:50 PM Thread Starter
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Improvement on my TS (craftsman 315.228390)

Well, I finally got sick and tired of all the sawdust that my Craftsman contractor table saw would make as I would cut wood up. I did by an aftermarket Dust collector shield that covered the blade inside the housing, and when that was on, it would provide a place to hook up a 2.5” hose to it, therefore getting about 75% of the dust, but still letting about 25% of it to get all over my shelf under the TS, as well as the floor.
I first took my TS off its mobile stand/base. This is what it looked like after I cleaned off the shelf, and then took the TS off… All that dust was inside the saw itself. The sawdust that I cleared off of the shelf was about 10 times that amount (at some point 2.5” deep).

Improvement on my TS (craftsman 315.228390)-dsc06121.jpg

I plan on replacing the steel stretcher on the top with the wood one I have cut sitting on top of the stand. I then drilled the correct holes, and cut out for a 4” dwv coupling to fit into the wood. Since the stretcher was on an incline, I decided to make the opening for the coupling to be level, so I went to the OSS to do this. I put some wedges under it to make it the correct angle, and proceeded to fine tune the fit till it was nice and tight. I then used Gorilla Polyurethane glue to glue it in place and seal up any minor gaps. I then installed it on the base.
Improvement on my TS (craftsman 315.228390)-dsc06125.jpg
Improvement on my TS (craftsman 315.228390)-dsc06127.jpg
Improvement on my TS (craftsman 315.228390)-dsc06129.jpg

Fabian

I used to be fairly indecisive, but now....... I'm not so sure.
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post #2 of 26 Old 02-05-2012, 12:53 PM Thread Starter
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I then proceeded to lay out the metal “pan” to close off that bottom, as well as collect the dust and reroute it towards the DC opening. I then cut it out, took it over to the brake and bent it into shape. After a few pop-rivets, some screws, and a little persuasion, I got it to fit exactly as planned.
Improvement on my TS (craftsman 315.228390)-dsc06131.jpg
Improvement on my TS (craftsman 315.228390)-dsc06133.jpg
Improvement on my TS (craftsman 315.228390)-dsc06134.jpg
Improvement on my TS (craftsman 315.228390)-dsc06135.jpg

On my agenda today, I plan to do a bunch of things since I have the behemoth table saw off of its base. First I know my blade is out of alignment with the miter gauge slots, and finally have the tools to fix that. Then I hope to close up some of the gaps around the TS, so as to only have the minimum amount of gaps to provide good air flow. Then I will close off the back of the saw, hopefully be done with this portion. Of course I will take more pics.

Fabian

Fabian

I used to be fairly indecisive, but now....... I'm not so sure.

Last edited by thegrgyle; 02-05-2012 at 01:09 PM.
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post #3 of 26 Old 02-05-2012, 01:17 PM
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That's impressive. Well done. Look forward to seeing it come to completion.
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post #4 of 26 Old 02-05-2012, 01:19 PM
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That's pretty slick!

George

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post #5 of 26 Old 02-05-2012, 01:27 PM
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Nice job Fabian. Looks like it should work pretty well. Keep us posted on how it performs.

When it's rustic......it's rustic
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post #6 of 26 Old 02-06-2012, 01:51 PM Thread Starter
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Well, Yesterday was interesting to say the least in my shop.... I finally was able to measure just how much my sawblade was misaligned with the miter grooves on my TS.... It was .017" off.... I knew it was off, but not by that much! Fortunately, it was off in the direction that made the back of the blade farther from the fence, so as not to pinch it. Well, I was able to get it to within 3 thousandths of being aligned perfectly, and I wasn't about to pull my hair out trying to get it perfect, especially after hearing about others that have tried and failed.

I also was able to get an angle iron mounted on it for a future outfeed table, and am now closing up all the holes on the TS to provide for adequate suction. I will try to get some pics posted this afternoon.

Fabian

Fabian

I used to be fairly indecisive, but now....... I'm not so sure.
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post #7 of 26 Old 02-06-2012, 01:57 PM
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Excellent work there.
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post #8 of 26 Old 02-06-2012, 01:59 PM
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Excellent!
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post #9 of 26 Old 02-06-2012, 02:07 PM
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Looks like it should work very well.
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post #10 of 26 Old 02-06-2012, 05:20 PM Thread Starter
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Here is the pic of the angle Iron I mounted for a future outfeed table .

Name:  DSC06147.jpg
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So I started closing off the gaps on my contractors saw. If I did not close any of them, I calculated around 58 square inches of openings, and that wasn’t including the back of the saw where the motor was mounted. I started by taping off the gap on the sides of the saw, from the inside, with foil tape (that I had from my job). That gap wasn’t all that bad, just under 1”. I thought it would be better to do it from the inside, since the cast top had a lip that protruded down.

Improvement on my TS (craftsman 315.228390)-dsc06142.jpg

Improvement on my TS (craftsman 315.228390)-dsc06141.jpg

The front of the saw was a different matter. Since there was cast iron lip that protruded down, the gap was must larger, almost 2”, as you might be able to tell in the picture below. I also had to contend with the lockdown mechanism for the tilting portion of the saw.

Improvement on my TS (craftsman 315.228390)-dsc06145.jpg

I decided then to use a type of foam rubber insulation (from work) to seal this portion. I made cuts in the foam rubber for all the ribs, and also over the top of the lockdown mechanism. I then used a type of contact cement to glue this onto the saw. I think it worked out pretty good.

Improvement on my TS (craftsman 315.228390)-dsc06146.jpg

Fabian

I used to be fairly indecisive, but now....... I'm not so sure.

Last edited by thegrgyle; 03-07-2012 at 08:32 AM.
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post #11 of 26 Old 02-06-2012, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
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I then managed to get the saw back onto the stand. Here is a pic from the back of the saw where the motor is usually mounted… I took the motor off so that I had better access to the bolts that bolt the saw to the stand.
Improvement on my TS (craftsman 315.228390)-dsc06148.jpg

I then mounted the motor and belt, and proceeded to close up this HUGE opening. I used the same type of metal that I used for the DC pan, since I had the scrap laying around, and my TS was out of commission. I used the same foil tape to attach it to the saw, and seal up as much of that as I could. I was a little fearful of using the metal, for fear of shredding the belt, so I made the opening a little larger than I wanted to.

Improvement on my TS (craftsman 315.228390)-dsc06151.jpg

Then all I needed to do was close off the gap on the front of the saw where the angle adjustment was, and thanks to the great ideas in this thread, I used some of that magnetic sign material, and even wrote myself a note on it.
So here is my TS, hooked up and ready to go.

Improvement on my TS (craftsman 315.228390)-dsc06155.jpg

After inserting a new blank in my zero clearance plate, I cut a new slot (since I aligned my blade properly), and even cut some wood to see how the DC worked. It worked about as good as expected. I recalculated the opening I have now, and they are around 14 square inches, so I think I will have ample air flow with my 4” hose hooked up to it. The best thing……. NO DUST ON THE SHELF BELOW THE TABLE SAW!


Fabian

Fabian

I used to be fairly indecisive, but now....... I'm not so sure.
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post #12 of 26 Old 02-06-2012, 05:46 PM
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Excellent work! That should serve you well. Glad you made the reminder sign.
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post #13 of 26 Old 02-06-2012, 05:58 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shop Dad View Post
Excellent work! That should serve you well. Glad you made the reminder sign.
Yeah..... It serves two purposes.... to seal up that opening, as well as remind me.

thanks for your kind words.

Fabian

Fabian

I used to be fairly indecisive, but now....... I'm not so sure.
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post #14 of 26 Old 02-06-2012, 06:32 PM
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looks nice, makes for a lot cleaner shop too
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post #15 of 26 Old 03-05-2012, 04:53 PM
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Good job!

Bob making sawdust in SW Louisiana
with a EX-21
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post #16 of 26 Old 03-06-2012, 06:46 PM
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This was a great thread!
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post #17 of 26 Old 05-27-2013, 12:23 PM
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Fine job you did fabricating that enclosure! I plan to do something similar but I'm just going to seal off the bottom with a piece of plywood and have the tube coming out the bottom. For the back I'm going to try some flexible but strong black foam packing material and cut a slot in it for the motor rods to move through. I'm going to try a large shop vacuum first and if it doesn't pull enough air I'll have to hook it up to my dust collector.
Nice work on the angle iron for your outfeed table.
Thanks for taking the time to post the photos.
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post #18 of 26 Old 05-27-2013, 07:27 PM
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Fabian

Great job I have some sheet metal left from my cyclone build and you gave my just the place for the extra metal. I have a General Int contractor saw which looks like your saw.
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post #19 of 26 Old 05-28-2013, 12:05 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the kind comments. I am happy that others may find what I have done to be useful.



Quote:
Originally Posted by MORRIS76 View Post
Fine job you did fabricating that enclosure! I plan to do something similar but I'm just going to seal off the bottom with a piece of plywood and have the tube coming out the bottom. For the back I'm going to try some flexible but strong black foam packing material and cut a slot in it for the motor rods to move through. I'm going to try a large shop vacuum first and if it doesn't pull enough air I'll have to hook it up to my dust collector.
Nice work on the angle iron for your outfeed table.
Thanks for taking the time to post the photos.
As far as the plywood on the bottom, I thought it might be a good idea to angle the bottom to help "guide" the dust into the intake.... It works fairly well. I feared that if it was completely flat, alot of dust would just settle on the flat surface, and not get sucked away. I know the packing material you are speaking of, and I think that stuff might be a good application for this. It is really easy to "slit" it to make room for the various things in the way... I will say this, that the aluminum I had used for the rear of the saw was cut for only vertical movement of the blade.... If I had to tilt the blade at all, I had to remove it... I did try to enclose the back of the saw in this thread, but that is still a work in progress... Unfortunately, I have too many outside projects that are taking my time now.

Whatever you end up doing, post some pics... It might help someone else with a problem they are doing...

Fabian

I used to be fairly indecisive, but now....... I'm not so sure.
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post #20 of 26 Old 05-28-2013, 05:00 PM
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nice setup.
lot better than my feeble attempt on my craftsman belt drive.
but the bucket and shield cuts down on the mess
no dc just a shop vac

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