Here's a decent video making good use of visual aides to illustrate some of the "physics of re-sawing" and why you want a heavy blade with low tooth count.
It sure makes it simple to understand. I guess I'll be getting a
1 1'4 TPI blade bandsaw mill ...hah hah.... Trouble is to properly tension those wide blades you need a stout frame on your saw.
I've done OK with 1/2" and 3/4" 3TPI blades so far, but when these get worn out, I may try a wider blade with fewer teeth per inch. There is a different theory that a narrow blade is better for resawning. I think Bret out at Lola Ranch recommends it.
:blink: bill
It sure makes it simple to understand. I guess I'll be getting a
1 1'4 TPI blade bandsaw mill ...hah hah.... Trouble is to properly tension those wide blades you need a stout frame on your saw.
I've done OK with 1/2" and 3/4" 3TPI blades so far, but when these get worn out, I may try a wider blade with fewer teeth per inch. There is a different theory that a narrow blade is better for resawning. I think Bret out at Lola Ranch recommends it.
:blink: bill
Yes. I've had good luck re-sawing using a 3/8" or 1/4" blade 3TPI or so. It has to be sharp. I once invested in a carbide tipped 1" blade for re-sawing and I thought it was a waste of money. The saw is the variable. We will all get different results depending on the saw we use. There is no "one" right way.
For my first try, I got a 3 TPI 3/4" blade and was pleased except for the kerf marks. I have ordered one of these 1/2" 3-4 TPI blades and will be trying it on my next resaw.
I love watching this guy.
What a perfect explanation of the tooth number and size.
of course...he made his own bandsaw.....geez....
Thanks, Steve
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