Mysteriouswoodsmen

I've had this idea down on paper and decided to see what it looked like 3D only problem is either i'm sketch up tarded or i'm not doing something right. I'm using the free download version so that might be the start of my problems. I can't seem to get those unwhite areas to become solid. As you can see I got the upper one to do it on one side but not the other. What I did was use the arch tool and clicked on one of the upright's then went over and clicked on the other adjusted the angle and poof, but the rest won't do it.In case your wondering it's suppose to be a fire fighter cross book holder thing. Dad's got a pretty good stack of about three foot pine drops that I plan to whip up a few of these out of. Anyone know where to get big wood burning irons need to be atleast 1" high?

Attached Images

 

__________________
I don't think that was suppose to happen
I love to give homemade gifts...........Which of my kids would you like

Your day is about to end when my day begins- Firefighter/EMT

vinnyb76

the problem often occurs if you hav`nt put all the connecting lines in, crossed the lines or if the lines are not on the same plane, it could be because of no lines here(in red), worth a shot anyway.

vinnyb76

it could be worth getting rid of those circles which i think are fixings until youve closed all of your loops then put them back in afterwards

slatron25

I was thinking they're not coplaner as vinny said. You might try looking at in wireframe also, maybe there's something your not seeing.

Willie T

Although this won't give you a true Firefighter's emblem (because the outer edge of each wing of the emblem is composed of three reversing compound curves), it WILL give you a way to make this basic configuration you're showing.

Do it all flat... one big circle... one smaller circle inside (made with the OFFSET tool).

Then draw your spokes back in from the outer circle to the inner circle. ALWAYS look to be sure you're getting a lighted POINT to complete your lines.

Erase the in-between stuff.

NOW............. ORBIT upward, and use your push/pull tool to fatten it up.

You may have to throw in some connecting lines wherever you see wide, darker lines. (Good lines that will make faces are thin and fine.) And wherever faces may not show, try retracing one or two of the lines already there.

Of course if there are NO lines making a full (all sides) connection, you won't get a face.

But the trick is to draw it all nice and flat first...... THEN stand it up and begin to make it thicker.

Willie T

Mystery,

I had a couple of minutes today, so I thought I’d have a go at your Firefighter’s Emblem.

It went OK, but I did have to do some repairs. I figured that was not good enough a technique to pass along to you. So I redid it with a little more basic approach. This one was straight forward with no repairs necessary.

I know the sizes may not suit you, but you can change any of that once I show you how I did it. Because of the repair problems I encountered by leaving too much of the model a full unit, I divided the construction into individual segments, then joined them later.

The Steps:

• I drew a 2” circle.
• Then from the same center, I drew a 2.1” circle.
• Next, from the same center, I drew a 6” circle.
• I crossed the center with two lines in an “X”... one on the RED axis, and one on the GREEN axis.
• Then using the TAPE tool, I parallel OFFSET both lines ¼”... to both sides of each line.
• Now, I drew a line over those dotted “construction” lines where I wanted the emblem wing edges to run.
• Next, I erased the “construction” lines and the original “X”.
• (All this time, this is still just a 2-d flat drawing. Now, here we go for 3-D.)
• I “Push/Pulled” the 2” circle up to a 1” height.
• Then I “Push/Pulled” the 6” circle up to a 3/4” height.
• (Now we get down to zooming in for detail work.)
• Focusing on the intersections of the inner wings and the 2” circle, I joined the wings to the circle.
• (This cannot be done with a “Push/Pull” of the small end of the wings because it is a curved surface, and you can't p/p a curved surface. The "MOVE" tool would have worked, and made it 10 times easier, but I didn't think of that. So, I did it the slower way.
• I extended each of the wing edges to the side of the 2” circle (I just drew three lines on each side of each wing.)
• Then (and here it gets a little tricky) I completed the small ends of the wings following around the 2” circle, endpoint-to-endpoint.
• This is done by paralleling each of the small line segments that make up the small end of the wing... one by one. (I think there are 4 or 5 across the small end of each wing)
• The trick here is to wait for the “ON EDGE” flag for each little line segment (NOT the “ON FACE” flag........ That MAY work, but I know the “ON EDGE” does.)
• As you complete the last segment of each wing end, a face will appear.... and a face will also automatically appear on the bottom side.
• Erase the original wing end lines.
• As I said it is SO much easier with the MOVE tool.... so you can eliminate the last 6 steps and just move the flat ends over to the circle.
• Do a copy of this, and drag it off to the side a bit.

Now, do a “FLIP” of the COPY along the blue axis to turn the back side up.
Erase the parts of the 2” circle and the small wing ends that you don’t want to see.

Of course, you know that you can UNDO any mistake with the <CONTROL> <”Z”> key combination.

Have fun.

Attached Thumbnails

 

Willie T

Yes, I know this is thread is a little old.... but he still may check back.

pmaru77

I'm lucky I guess....I have Pro/e at home.