Taper jig instructions - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum

 
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post #1 of 19 Old 11-07-2009, 10:46 AM Thread Starter
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Taper jig instructions

I'm going to buy a Rockler taper jig as tapered cuts are required on a new project I am going to tackle. I have no idea how they work or how difficult they are to use. Is anyone aware of any internet sites that may include instructions/directions? Or, any advise on their use would be appreciated.
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post #2 of 19 Old 11-07-2009, 12:00 PM
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I'm sure it will come with instructions if you are buying it new. I doubt it's too complicated.
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post #3 of 19 Old 11-07-2009, 02:33 PM Thread Starter
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The reviews on the Rockler web site all tended to agree that the instructions were "crappy" and were poorly written.
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post #4 of 19 Old 11-07-2009, 10:56 PM
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Ronnie,
I looked at the jig you mentioned. I don't think you need any kind of indepth instructions for it. It looks very similar to an old craftsmen jig I have. They are just designed to hold a piece of wood at a slight angle to run through your table saw. You really don't need much more than that. Mark your desired taper on our piece you are cutting. Adjust the angle jig so that line you just marked is parallel to your fence. Adjust the fence so your blade cuts rught up to the line and send 'er throught. (Always a good idea to try a scrap first on a new setup).
Mike Hawkins
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post #5 of 19 Old 11-07-2009, 11:40 PM
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Patience it the word...

I just used my Rockler taper jig today.

1 - On the edges of the wood, draw a line that represents the where the taper is to be cut.
2 - Put the taper jig against the fence on your saw and wood against the taper jig. Adjust the jig to the approximate angle of the taper.
3 - Align the fence, taper jig and the wide end of the wood to be tapered with the saw blade.
4 - Align the taper jig and the narrow end of the wood to be tapered with the saw blade by adjusting the taper jig.
5 - Repeat steps 3 & 4 until no adjustment of the taper jig is required.

BTW - It helps if you adjust the stubby fence on the taper jig so that the wood is even with the leading edge of the taper jig.

Use the right tool for the job.

Rich (Tilting right)
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Remember that when we have the "BIG ONE" everything east of the Rockies falls into the ocean.
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post #6 of 19 Old 11-08-2009, 02:07 PM
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Tapering Jig

Ronnie1A,
The easiest way to aquire a tapering jig is to gather scraps from around the shop and make one that suits your needs. I needed one to taper some legs but also wanted it to secure to the fence. Here are a couple of pictures, if you need more pictures or need to know how it was built all you need do is ask and i will be more than happy to assist.Attachment 11424

Attachment 11425

Last edited by garryswf; 03-30-2010 at 06:15 AM.
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post #7 of 19 Old 11-09-2009, 07:53 AM
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Good looking jig Gary. I plan to copy that one ASAP. Thanks for posting the pics.
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post #8 of 19 Old 11-09-2009, 10:25 AM
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Ain't Scrap Wood Great

Acp,
Since this jig was built i see some things that need to be done to it, but overall it functions well and keeps my hands completly away from the blade. That was my objective My scrap wasn't long enough. The piece that is on the left side of the fence "IMO" should have been the same length as the piece that rides on the top of the fence. Have a Great Day

Last edited by garryswf; 11-09-2009 at 10:28 AM.
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post #9 of 19 Old 11-09-2009, 02:22 PM
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Cool, I will keep that in mind.
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post #10 of 19 Old 11-09-2009, 08:32 PM
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Another Shop built taper jig

AS far as instructions, layout the angles on the workpiece, adjust the jig and measure so that the distance to the fence is the same at the front and rear, creating a parallel cut. Then make the pass.
Next step is making the other side of the workpiece the same and requires resetting the angle on the jig since there is now an different angle sitting against the jig. This jig can be flipped on either side since the adjustment is on the end. The other end is just a simple hinge.
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The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specfic. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo
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post #11 of 19 Old 11-09-2009, 08:35 PM
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More pics

additional photos
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The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specfic. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo
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post #12 of 19 Old 11-10-2009, 08:28 AM
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Good Info

WnT, & Ronnie,
I did read your post with interest, and i do like your tapering jig, simple for ronnie to build and use. The reason i built mine the way i did is because i have a right hand that was injured, tendons cut in three of the fingers and it doesn't work the best, it now seems to get in the way more than it used to. Thus the further away from the blade i keep it, well you know the rest. It was more of a safety thing for me.
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post #13 of 19 Old 11-10-2009, 09:46 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you all for your advise and photos. Both were very helpful and appreciated.
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post #14 of 19 Old 12-13-2009, 08:37 PM
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I'll be making a taper jig today. Most of what I see online look like the following pic, where hinge end is the end that passes the blade first. I'm concerned that with a longer board, or a wide angle taper being cut that with this design, you run the risk of the end of the work piece hitting the fence. Also, if you were to taper your workpiece to a point (for whatever reason), you would be bringing the saw blade right into the jig at the non-hinge end. Why couldn't you build it the other way, so the open end of the jig passes the blade first and the little push block is on the hinge end? Is it just a matter of the workpiece not being supported as well that way?
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post #15 of 19 Old 12-14-2009, 12:07 PM
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Which end the hinge is on is probably less important than whether you are cutting a negative taper (like the jigs shown above where the blade is pushing the wood toward the taper fence) or a positive taper (where the blade would be pulling the board away from the taper fence). If the cutting action of the blade pulls the board away from the fence... well, lets just say bad stuff happens (do a search on kickback videos)

(note, I just picked which direction to call positve and negative, not sure if there is a "right" way, but if there is, I probably got it wrong)

Last edited by daxinarian; 12-14-2009 at 12:08 PM. Reason: clairification
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post #16 of 19 Old 12-19-2009, 03:01 PM
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here ya go guys, be safe please... my compliments .. its the safest and most accurate there is...

http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/ca...apersafely.flv
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post #17 of 19 Old 12-20-2009, 06:52 PM
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Neil, now *that* is a taper jig.

Did have to hunt down my calipers though because I couldn't remember the thickness of a matchbook cover, off the top of my noggin.

If any of you schmucks build this CN taper jig let us know.
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post #18 of 19 Old 12-28-2009, 06:53 AM
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I believe I'll take a run at that

Quote:
Originally Posted by CharlesNeil View Post
here ya go guys, be safe please... my compliments .. its the safest and most accurate there is...

http://charlesneilwoodworking.com/ca...apersafely.flv
My tapering jig, one that I cobbled together, is one of those things that, while it is effective, kinda gives me that old quezzie feeling every time I use it.

Around my power equipment especially, I try to avoid living one of my favorite lines: "Every time I begin to think I'm a pretty smart guy, I do something like this!"

Thanks for putting that up there Charlie, It is kind of you!
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post #19 of 19 Old 01-22-2010, 05:23 PM
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Old match book cover = .020".

I have two of the Cman types which allows you to set one at the desired taper and one at 2T.

I have a "permenent" plywood jig for cutting wedges on the bandsaw which is just a tampered portion removed and a notch. It is actually safer and simpler than the Cman jigs.

St. Louis, MO
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