Router Table - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk

jporter5333 · 02-01-2009, 08:42 PM

Well I was digging around in the shed and found a piece of 1-1/4 plywood I had forgotten bout. It is 18"x34". Is that a good size for a router table or will I wish I had a bigger one?

blackcruzer · 02-01-2009, 10:00 PM

Where can I get some of that melamine? I'm not finding it on Home Depot website.

jporter5333 · 02-01-2009, 10:54 PM

blackcruzer,

I couldn't find the melamine on the Home Depot website either but they do have it. I saw it last time I was in there. I was going to build my table out of it until I found this 18"x34" piece of 1-1/4 plywood. I will probably make my table out of that now since I have everything else I need and the table will be free now except for a miter gauge. Unless someone thinks that 18"x34" is not big enough.

12penny · 02-02-2009, 09:52 AM

blackcruzer....click on "pro" at top of HD web page, then click on contractor services on the left. Then building supplies, lumber and finally melamine. $33.57.

jp....34" is probably long enough but I think the 18" width is too small. Dont forget you have to install a table insert, a miter slot and get a fence on it too.

blackcruzer · 02-02-2009, 10:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 12penny

blackcruzer....click on "pro" at top of HD web page, then click on contractor services on the left. Then building supplies, lumber and finally melamine. $33.57.

jp....34" is probably long enough but I think the 18" width is too small. Dont forget you have to install a table insert, a miter slot and get a fence on it too.

Thanks for the lead, I'll check it out.

jporter5333 · 02-02-2009, 03:51 PM

Thanks 12penny,

I had seen some router tables that were 18" and thought that seemed awful small my self. I think I will stick to the melamine idea. I had just found that piece of plywood and though maybe I would try to use it. Any ideas on what it would be good for? I hate to throw it away. Or worse yet just sit there taking up space in the shed like all the rest of the junk because I hate to throw it away

.

12penny · 02-02-2009, 03:58 PM

jp..... yur askin the wrong guy. I save everything. Might make a good sled or something. But as sure as the sky's blue, as soon as you throw it out you'll find a use for it. Hey... how bout a "keep out" sign for the shop door?

jporter5333 · 02-02-2009, 04:45 PM

Good idea 12penny. But I've decided to break it with my forehead.

johnv51 · 02-02-2009, 04:54 PM

I built Norm's Improved router station with a few extra improvements of my own. Last year when Rockler had a sale I picked up the Mast-r-lift and pc7518 motor and rebuilt the top. I used T track for the fence mounting system where Norm cut slots into the top for bolts. I also put some casters on mine to move it around the shop (also known as garage). The top is 2 pieces of MDF, 3/4 and 1/2 laminated together, edged with oak and topped with formica.

blackcruzer · 02-02-2009, 05:02 PM

I've seen that PC7518 Router mentioned a few times, is that a good one to start out with? I noticed it a 3 1/4 HP.

johnv51 · 02-02-2009, 05:06 PM

It's a good one to finish up with. Many lift mechanisms are designed for it. It's pricey but you won't buy another one for decades.

Gary Beasley · 02-02-2009, 06:26 PM

I made a router table from a 3 x 6 foot desk, reinforced the underside with a 2inch x 48inch angle iron, added a Master Fence then inset the router insert from my old Bosch table. It needs the height boosted a bit but I love the size of it.

TheLt · 02-16-2009, 07:15 AM

Unless Rockler has done something to correct the problem of the edge banding falling off (see picture 1), I don't recommend any of their tables (band saw, drill press, etc). After the edge banding fell off the cut-outs for the miter track don't line up (see picture 2). And then two ends don't meet in the back. (see picture 3). I have had no response from them on correcting this problem. At one point, after a two week vacation, I came home to the edge banding laying on the floor.

Gary Beasley · 02-16-2009, 09:36 PM

Did you wipe the edge with any solvents? Looks like the plastic shrank big time. They may have used the wrong material to make them.

top · 02-16-2009, 10:05 PM

it seem and look to me that it was poorly made send it back now if you can, if not time to get the oak out and trim it yourself hope it work out for you good luck

"THE SHOP OF TOP"

TheLt · 02-17-2009, 05:54 AM

I had the same idea, get out the oak, but how do I make the oak go around the radius of the corners? The other thing I thought of was using the iron on edge banding if I can find it that thick (1").

Gary Beasley · 02-17-2009, 06:40 PM

You should be able to cut a thin strip and soak it until it's flexible enough to bend around the radius of the corners. Maybe CA glue will do the job if the particleboard will hold it. I'd cut oversize and trim down flush of course.

terrysumner · 02-19-2009, 04:12 PM

I too built my router table from Norm Abrams plans...it's a great design. I made a couple of changes though. I made the top with a double thickness of the 3/4" Melamine so it's 1 1/2" thick...nice and heavy. And I edged it all around with some hardwood. The second change I made was to hinge the top. I used a piano hinge on the back so I can lift up the top. Made a big difference in convenience.

Hosted on Fotki

TheLt · 02-20-2009, 05:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by terrysumner

I too built my router table from Norm Abrams plans...it's a great design. I made a couple of changes though. I made the top with a double thickness of the 3/4" Melamine so it's 1 1/2" thick...nice and heavy. And I edged it all around with some hardwood. The second change I made was to hinge the top. I used a piano hinge on the back so I can lift up the top. Made a big difference in convenience.

Looks great. I think I'll hinge mine like that. Good job on the RT.

jporter5333 · 03-01-2009, 12:27 AM

Nice table, Terry.