jporter5333

I'm getting ready to build a router table and I was wondering what to use for the top surface. Is formica good enough or is there something else that would work better?

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Jason Porter

BHOFM

That is fine, but you might want to look at Lowes or
where ever, they have broken boxes of laminate
flooring for little or nothing some times.

It is very hard, and very slick. I use it for table and
desk tops all the time. I use construction adhesive
spread with a 1/16 notch trowel to stick it down.

If you use a laminate bit to trim the edge, use some
sandpaper to smooth the edge because it leaves a
razor sharp corner. A nice 1/8 round over would work
as well.

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Rob

I used white Formica on mine. I face-glued 2 sections of 3/4" Baltic Birch plywood together and put Formica on both the top and bottom faces to stabilize it. Edged it with hard maple.
No problems after 6 years.

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Sawduster

That's the perfect solution! I priced a half sheet of 3/4" melamine plywood at Woodcraft. $59.00! I've been holding off and hoping an idea like this would pop up. To sweeten the story, I have a half box of Pergo sitting in my shed. While we're on the subject of router tables, is there a standard distance to put the miter gage slot from the router spindle?

LGC KX5 TC

I would say that you want it as close as you can for better support, but far enough away it doesn't interfere if you run something big like panel bits or something.

AZ Termite

Sawduster, From the center of the collet to the center of the miter track on my router table it is 6 1/2". I don't know if there is a standard but that is the measurement on mine.

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jporter5333

I'm glad you asked that question sawduster. Being new I didn't think to ask it and it brings up another question. How do I attach the fence, should I make some sort of guides and a locking mechanism (if so suggestions?) or just clamp it down? I have to tell y'all a little story. You ever have an idea, and trick all the people that need trickin' (the wife) and the plan works out for ya only to find out you just screwed up? Yeah. I was contemplating the router table yesterday. I was looking ay Lowe's website for laminate flooring (as suggested by BHOFM-thanks, great idea) and formica for the top surface. My wife went into the kitchen while I was looking at the formica and I looked up to see what she was doing and when my eyes hit the cabinets I had an epiphany. There is a section of cabinet that is about 5' long that would work perfect as a router table. Just add router!!! She has mentioned wanting new cabinets so I crafted a plan. If she gets new cabinets I could have that cabinet for a router table. So I told her I wanted to put the new cabinets in. (I didn't tell her why because she would say no right?) She said ok so I get my router table. Yes! I tricked her!! Then reality set in. What have I done?!?! Now I have to replace all my cabinets. I'm so smart, I got her good. That's gonna be one expensive router table.

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Jason Porter

AZ Termite

jporter, you would have been better using the vanity in the bathroom instead of the cabinets in the kitchen, it wouldn't been so expensive. Now to your question. I cut slots on either side of the table from the bottom. I'm not sure how big they are its been a few years since I buit it. I think the little one is 3/8. The slots are step cut, I mad the first cut with 3/8 straight bit all the way though the top, then using I think its 5/8 straight bit you make the second cut centered in the first cut about 1/4 of the thickness of the top. The slot will allow you to used t-track bolts to hold your fence down. then all you have to do is drill the hole in the fence for the bolts. I can take some pics if you would like some clarification on all this rambling. I hope i didn't confuse you.

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Gerry KIERNAN

OOPS!

PS: Check out Rockler for router table accessories, such as tee tracks, guides, and clamping for tee tracks. They have some real good stuff.

Gerry

jporter5333

Thanks AZ. I understand, no pics necessary. It sounds funny but it's exactly the way a toilet is anchored.

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Jason Porter

jporter5333

[quote=Gerry KIERNAN;57849]OOPS!


That pretty much says it all Gerry. Thanks for the tip.

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Jason Porter

AZ Termite

Just an FYI, I forgot to add that the slots are about 10" long. They go from just in front of center of the collet and go towards the back. They are inset from the edge of the table about 4" on either side.

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Gerry KIERNAN

Building a decent router table is also on my "to do" list. The cabinet I am going to use is about 18 inches by 72 inches long. Does anyone have a good overhead picture showing the layout for a good router table set up? I already have the tracks and clamps from Rockler.

Gerry

12penny

Hey j,
I think you should reconsider using melamine. And dont go to woodcraft. Home depot has 49"x97" double sided for $34.00 and you wont find them any flatter anywhere else. That might be too much waste for you, but I use melamine for a lot of things including jigs, fences and extension tables. As for the router table part, I dont have enough room as it is so I used melamine for my saw outfeed table and then used the outfield table for my router table. Melamine scraps for the fence and I had a cheap, accurate, easy to use, easy to build router table for somewhere around $50 and a day or so of labor. Fence adjustment slots are in the fence instead of the table and the hand screws thread into T nuts in the table. Good luck with yours.

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jporter5333

Thanks 10penny and everyone who responded. The melamine sounds like the easiest idea and the will not be an issue. I can think of a few uses for the leftovers. I appreciate the pics too. That helps alot.

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Jason Porter

Gerry KIERNAN

Thanks for the pictures 10penny. Those are excellent. Your dust chute looks like it would work very well.

Gerry

12penny

Thanks, doesnt work as well as I would like. Some dust still gets pulled down past the router and ends up in a pile on the floor. Still better than having it all over the shop. Do store bought tables have the same problem?

AZ Termite

I get some dust and chips in the bottom of mine. The table that I have I bulit from the NYW plan. I have a dust port in the top on my fence and there is one in the cabinet. I don't have the one in the cabinet hooked up yet. If your table is open on the bottom you may want to build a cabinet onto it to close off the router. The only thing with that is you will also have to have some sort of door on there to allow air to move to help cool the router and aid in dust removal. You will also have to put a dust port and hook it in with the one on the top. Here are a few pics of mine

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sawduststeve

I have a delta 10" table saw with a 54" side table I made the table out of 3/4" MDF and mounted my router into that that way I can use the adjustable mitere gauge of the saw for the router. I took paste wax and waxed the MDF and everything slides smooth as silk.

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Jordy3738

Formica is the perfect solution. One of the things that we have done for many years is wax the surface of the router table with any paste that contains carnauba.

Be careful though because it will be extra smooth and slippery if you do this.

The color of the laminate is important too. If you don't use the correct color you will have difficulty seeing the edge of your fence.

When you get to be in your mid forties like me, anything that makes something easier to see is a plus.


We always is "Standard" thickness plastic laminate rather than the VT grade.



Jordy