need help on straight cuts - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum

 
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post #1 of 11 Old 09-25-2015, 10:40 PM Thread Starter
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need help on straight cuts

Trying to make a miter saw table but can never seem to get my cuts dead flat level. I wondering if all the guys on youtube that build miter saw table actually have their tabke dead flat level with the height of their miter saw table. I'm using a craftsman table saw that was going to me so I'm assuming it's a standard fence when I rip plywood or anything its straight for the most part but has places where it's off half a 1/16 of an inch or so. Also with my miter saw I built a higher surface next to it but it's not perfect but still tried it with a stop block and not getting the same length cuts. I'm wanting to get the legs absolutely perfect wtj one another. I really don't have a peticalir method I'm trying use as I really have no idea what I'm doing just reading and watching videos trying to figure out how their stuff comes out so perfect.

Last edited by thunder86; 09-25-2015 at 10:42 PM. Reason: Maybe the reason for the diff lengths off miter saw is due to not running 2x4's thru a planer first?
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post #2 of 11 Old 09-25-2015, 11:17 PM
where's my table saw?
 
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perfect cuts...

The "secret" to making perfect cuts is starting with straight edges in the first place...HUH? A table saw, even if it's set up "perfectly" will create a curved cut if the piece is curved and registered against the fence. You must sight each board to see if there is any curve on the edge before trying to rip them.

OK, there is a curve, now what? If you have a jointer you straighten the edge, then rip it on the table saw. If you don't, then you can hand plane the ends to get a straight edge. Construction lumber, like 2 x 4's are rarely perfectly straight. This is why cabinet shops and other well equipped wood shop will always have a long bed jointer.

Without a photo of what you are trying to do, a generalized answer is about the best I can do. Plywood will generally have a near perfect edge as it comes from the factory. So when possible, use that edge against the fence and your rips should come out very close.

If your saw is NOT set up correctly, that's a whole 'nother ball game. Check You Tube for how to set it up.
Blade should be parallel to the miter slots, fence should be parallel to the miter slots. The miter slot is the set up standard of the table saw, since it is NOT adjustable.

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specfic. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo
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post #3 of 11 Old 09-26-2015, 12:29 AM Thread Starter
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The 2x4's were warped a bit. I never checked the other boards. Also all the stuff was givin to me from my wifes grandpa was taking apart drove back to my house put back together so I'm you tubing setup videos now as I never thought of that. Guess my next thing to by is a planner and joiner. This is extremely new to me as none of my friends or dad did woodworking I literally have no one to show me anything but love doing it. What do you think about the Incra stuff? Is that stuff worth the money or not?
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post #4 of 11 Old 09-26-2015, 01:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thunder86 View Post
The 2x4's were warped a bit.
You could build a sled for ripping warped lumber on your table saw.

Search you tube for that.
Here are a couple of pics of mine. It rides against the fence. You clamp your lumber in place and push the sled along the fence. The saw will make a straight cut. Then you can run the straight side against the fence to straighten out the other side. You would probably wind up with a board that is three inches wide after your get it straight.
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post #5 of 11 Old 09-26-2015, 01:06 PM Thread Starter
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So I'm looking at joiners and planers. From what it looks like you would need both to run it thru the joiner first then thru the planer l. What would you recomend?
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post #6 of 11 Old 09-26-2015, 01:58 PM
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You don't need a jointer and a planer to build a miter saw table, your miter saw and table saw are all you need.
You do have to use straight material, the jig to straighten the edges MT posted will do that.
As for cutting it is a matter of lining everything up with your miter saw, fasten it to a plank and build temporary supports even with the table on both sides of it, fasten your stop to the plank and make your cuts.

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post #7 of 11 Old 09-26-2015, 09:36 PM Thread Starter
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This is what I set up its hard to see but at worst the boards are 1/32 of an inch off maybe closer to 1/64 off. You can tell that the one is warped a bit. I'm just guessing tho that they need to sit absolutely perfect so my miter saw makes perfect cuts and the only different option is to either come up with a jig of some kind or buy a jointer. I'm not sure how the cuts are off I had a screw down atop block so the only thing I can figure on is the wood being slightly warped. Will that jig work on all 4 sides of a 2x4?
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Last edited by thunder86; 09-26-2015 at 09:38 PM. Reason: the jig here next to the miter saw is not absolutely perfectly level with the mister saw if that makes a difference.
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post #8 of 11 Old 09-27-2015, 11:50 AM Thread Starter
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Should I be building the legs of the table with something other than 2x4's? I don't think I can use the jig to straighten them the wider 3.5 inch side unless maybe I built it up higher.
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post #9 of 11 Old 09-27-2015, 03:25 PM
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Do you have a plan or sketch of what you are building? That would help.
Some better grade wood would help even more.
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post #10 of 11 Old 10-11-2015, 04:58 AM
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x2 on the wood . Also make sure when cutting your wood is resting flat against the miter saw table and fence and not the extension table. If the saw is set correctly you should get a good cut.

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post #11 of 11 Old 10-16-2015, 01:41 AM
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Perhaps a little late on this thread, but up to now, when I cut up a sheet of plywood I used a hand held circular saw. I place the plywood on a pair of saw horses and lay an 8' shelf board, the kind with a formica finish already applied, on top of it and clamp it down at a distance precisely measured from my cut line. I run the circular saw against the straight edge of that shelf board and I get an almost perfect straight cut. Shorter shelf boards can be used for shorter cuts.

A sheet of plywood on a table saw is awkward and problems are almost assured unless you have an assistant who is as good at it as you are.

I recently purchased a track saw with two sections of track. I have crosscut with it, but have not tried ripping yet. I still have that 8' shelf board in the side of my shop.

For ripping dimensional lumber, I do use the table saw. Normally I just set the fence and rip away. This is better as the dimensional lumber may be warped a bit and you want it to follow the curve. The short fence of a table saw allows this. I do this with smaller pieces of plywood too. If I want extra control, I have a feather board I can clamp to the table saw to help guide the lumber through the blade.
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