ESCANABAJOSH

anyone have anytips on log furniture building? i'm also looking for some ideas on jigs for drilling the holes in a straight line, etc.

one other thing i'm wondering about is the best way to cut a "L" outta a "O" what i mean is taking a 1/4 chunk of the round log out? would i use a table saw? or how about getting a groove cut so i can slide in T&G. down the middle? thanks for any help on this stuff, i'm new too wood working and starting off with log furniture till i can get more tools.

Gus Dering

Do you have a drill press? That is a must for the straight line thing.
In general working with logs is all about working from the center line of the log. As opposed to dimensional lumber where you can measure and strike a line on the face. So you have to create ways of securing the work piece to jigs and fixtures with that center line parallel to the fixture for most operations you are describing.
The spindle drilling can be done by clamping the log in a sled. You could shim it so the center line is both parallel to the base and the fence and screw the ends to the fixture the best way you seem fit. The ends can be cut off later. So now you have a straight line to reference to a fence on the deck of the drill press. Simply by keeping the sled against the fence you have your straight line and you should be square to the center line.
With a center mark on the fence showing the center of the bit, you can layout the edge of the sled in the increments of your liking. Drill a hole, slide over to the next mark and drill again....
Another similar sled for the dado and the tenon.
Once you get your mind to think center line the log concept becomes a bit easier. The thing you have to come to terms with is the amount of time it takes to set up for an operation is more than you thought.
It is fun though!

Gus Dering

I thought of something that I want to add.
In most cases when milling something on a log it helps to square up each end as close as possible by eye. Then strike 2 lines on each end, one level and 1 plumb through the center point.
then if you go from one op to another you can work off the same reference points. You often have to drill holes from more than one angle and you can spin the log in your fixture to any angle needed by striking a new line at the angle needed on the end. Just spin until the new line is level and drill.
I hope this makes sense, a few pictures would help but I ain't got none
Post back if you think I could help

chevyll_1967

Josh, give Bob4814 at this web address a bump he builds these things also has web sight bob@woodworksofcs.com sure he could help you he's in Cedar Springs Mi.

Juniperlampguy

Difficult to put all the info you are asking for in a single post without a bunch of photos and diagrams.

Here is a link to a book that is very informative and well worth the money.

http://www.logmen.net/bookvideo.html

__________________
Ron

http://www.woodsofthewestgallery.com/

mics_54

I have made the round tenons for log spindles in hand rails and furniture on a jig I made for the table saw. Basically it was a lathe like setup where the spindle was spiked on both ends and rotated by hand over the the saw blade which was raised slowly until the desired diameter was reached. I can post an illustration of the jig if anyone is interested. I used it to build the handrails in the photo below.

Gus Dering

I always like to see a jig.
Check out this link. It's got the most awesome tenon maker. I did a bunch of log work with a guy that had one of these woofers. Sweet machine!
I have not seen the hand held thing they got there. Not sure about that.

http://www.logwoofer.com/index.htm

Big Dave

The guy that makes that woofer is only about 15 miles from me. Haven't met him yet but did meet his brother in law on a job once. Awful expensive tool is all I can say.

__________________
Do one thing at a time, do it well, then move on.
www.bigdaveswoodworks.com

Gus Dering

I agree that its expensive. In 1995 it was about 4 grand.
But if I was serious about log work it would be a must.
You can adjust the diameter and the length of the tenon. And it looks like a draw knife tenon. All in about 30 seconds.
Very cool tool.

I would love to see how else you guys are doing them. There must be some good ideas out there.

Big Dave

I made this table three years ago and still use it. I clamp the log to it and drive the tenon cutter onto the log. I have since bought a tenon cutter that will make an 11" long tenon with a 2" diameter.

The material I use already has the tenons on the end but I have to cut them to length then match the tenon that was put on at the mill so this is the only way I can go.

__________________
Do one thing at a time, do it well, then move on.
www.bigdaveswoodworks.com

mics_54

This is the basic idea for my tenon maker

Gerry KIERNAN

Very clever. It just might work.

Gerry

mics_54

Oh it works fairly well. I made all the spindles in the photos above in a couple of hours as I recall. The spindles were already dry/ standing dead from an old burn (1964) area...I harvested and made them in 1999. They were hard as a rock but checked somewhat. All I did was sand them a little bit to get the grey off. The spindle radius on the tenon can be made smaller of course by changing the blade to a smaller diameter. The spindles were only tenoned on one end...the other being rabbited onto kick/toe/riser boards... easy install.

Gus Dering

Does that center section of the jig slide up and down? Or do you crank the blade up a bit and spin ect.. ect.. ?

I like the idea. Very clever

Gerry KIERNAN

Hi Mics 54

I didn't realise that you had already built and tested this idea out. Good on you. I have used tenon cutters from Lee Valley Tools, and they work well in a hand held drill, but the torque is hard on the wrists. For my next project I am going to try out your idea. What do you suggest for centers to turn the stock on?
My last project, an arm chair, used a lot of boughs that were curved. I would like to come up with an idea for doing them. Have you worked with curved boughs? Any ideas how your rig could be adapted to handle them?
As far as using the tenon cutters, I think I am going to rig up something to handle them in my Shopsmith, to get away from damaging my wrists any further.

My next project will probably be a fairly plain bench. I have a slab of fir, about 18 inches by 3 inches thick, by about 6 feet long. I am curently scouring the local beaches, looking for drift wood to fashion legs, arms, and back from. I will be using curved boughs for the back and arms, and straight limbs for the legs.

Thanks for posting your idea. It is an approach that I hadn't even thought of.

Gerry

mics_54

I just raise the blade slowly while turning the spindle by hand. The length of the tenon can be made longer by advancing the jig. I suggest that if you advance the jig that you lower the blade first and then again raise it in small increments while turning. It would be wise to augment the jig so as it could be clamped to the fence between adjustments/advancment. the spindles will be asemetrical so bring the blade close while spinning the spindle. Once you find the "lowest" spot in the spindle begin slowly turning it while raising the blade about 1/16" and make a couple of revolutions with the spindle. Repeat until the desired diameter is reached. Obviously the illustration doesnt show all the details involved in securing the spindle. As I recall I had used 1/4 inch bolt that I ground the threads off the last 1/2" for the spindle pins. Once a tenon is made on one end. You merely flip the whole jig to do the other end.

Gus Dering

I like the jig, that is pretty clever.
I like your cad work even more. What program are you using to do that with?

mics_54

Those are models created in google sketchup. I also use turbocad for more complex illustration and construction drawings. I find drawing almost as satisfying as building. I freelance if anyone is interested. It's alot easier on the body. I'm still thinking about the curved spindle solution.

Gus Dering

I think Big Dave's jig would be perfect for a curved part like the top rail on a headboard for a bed. You just have to eye ball the center line a bit, maybe get someone to hold it steady while you drill it. Then figuring out the angle needed for the mortise should be straight forward.
I have always been partial to the hand draw knife look on the tenons. I guess a guy could scarf some flat spots on the round surface afterward. I have not had much luck down in the tight curve though. Anybody know if there is a special knife for that use? I suppose a spoke shave may be more appropriate than a draw knife. Any thoughts?

mistrfix

Mics

Thanks for taking the time to post this with the cad drawing. I thought the commercial tenon cutters were pretty pricey especially for my experiment in a birch log bed. I stood for a day looking at my lathe, hole saw, hand planers, belt sander, chisels and scratching my head. I was ready to go to inserting closet bar dowels into the log ends for a "faux" tenon when your discussion came up on a Google search.

I had a fun day yesterday making the jig (and re-making) and turning the first parts of the birch bed. Rather than a fixed pin at the ends, I drilled a series of holes and drove a cut off nail into the spindle end. This allows quick adjustment vertically to accommodate the bends in my logs that kept bumping into the bed of the jig or the top of the table saw. Your jig works great so long as the logs are fairly straight.

I thought I knew better and tried to cheat proceed without making the complete jig with two ends to secure the other end of the spindle . Freehand does not work. Then I sacrificed a long board to make the complete jig (also with adjustable end)

Because I am cutting long runners for the bedstead and sides, I either needed a very long jig or a freestanding center-point for the "back" (non-cutting) end that could be advanced as the log was cut. As the logs are so bent, there was insufficient swing room for the one-piece jig made as you drew as the bed (bottom board) of the jig took up an extra 1/2". So I had to abandon the long one-piece jig and stuck the "back end" on a 2x4. That got a bit sloppy so I ended up securing it in my freestanding collapsible bench-workclamp (Shop-Mate (?) by Stanley) and made a "track" by opening the clamp. Still pretty crude but it seemed to work.

To get sufficient swing room, unfortunately I had to attack the blade at an angle (of maybe an inch higher at the back end). Drilling the mortise holes in the bed posts at a slight angle will be a challenge.

Thanks again for your suggestion. The cad drawing was a spectacular help.

Regards,

Chris