egnuol

After I glued up and clamped bare red oak, I have a black water stain from my pipe clamps. It was caused by the water I used to remove eccess glue. What is the best way to remove this stain? Thanks, Darrel

phinds

This is called "metal stain" (not water stain) and while I hope I am wrong, I don't think there IS any way to remove it. Red oak is SO porous it really sinks in.

Paul

__________________
phinds
-------------------------------------------
www.hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/

Gary Beasley

Have you tried a vinegar and salt bath on it? Thats usually good for rust, and may work with the tannic salts as well. Sounds like your wash water had a high iron content.

egnuol

Thanks phinds and Gary. I will try the vinegar and salt. Yes the water was high in iron. Thanks again, Darrel

pjl

Hi Darrel
Sorry I don't know how to remove the stains, but I can help prevent future ones. If you open your clamps as wide as you need and put a piece of 2" packing tape on the pipe it isolates the metal from the wood and no more black marks.

Paul

nzgeordie

Hi Darrel. Use de-mineralised water for washing down or cleaning-up. No iron in the water to react with the tannin in the wood. Sorry, don't know how to put it right once it happens.

__________________
You can lead a horse to water but a pencil must be led.
Pete

phinds

Don't think that will do any good, as the problem isn't what kind of water is used, it just that ANY water will cause metal stain on some woods (very much including oak) when ferrous metal (e.g. pipe clamps) is touching the wood and water.

Paul

__________________
phinds
-------------------------------------------
www.hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/

cabinetman

You might try TSP (trisodium phosphate), basically a cleaner, available at home centers and hardware stores.

Next time you could try keeping the pipe off the wood, and put wood pads on the clamp. They will also help keep your work from damage.
.

egnuol

Thanks guys for the imput. I really appreciate that. I tried vinegar w/ and w/o salt, TSP, denatured alcohol, lacquer thinner, bleach, acid etch for metal, ammonia, R.L.C. remover, iron-out, metal prep (for body work), paint thinner, stripper, soap, hand cleaner and distilled water. Finally, a cabinet scaper and sand paper did the trick (after it dried).This will not happen again.

Gary Beasley

I'm glad you were able to overcome this problem.

Wood4Fun

LOL - well, I guess you pretty much tried it all didn't you

phinds

That's great to hear. I really thought that the porosity of the oak would have the stain soaking in so far that the thought of a cabinet scraper being useful (even after all the chemical work you did) never crossed my mind. You sure you weren't using white oak?

Good info.

Paul

__________________
phinds
-------------------------------------------
www.hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/

Rick Mosher

In the future oxalic acid is the best thing for mineral discoloration on wood. They sell it at the hardware store as wood bleach just make sure it isn't the 2 part wood bleach. I mix a strong batch and wet the dark marks down real well, put in the sun and let dry. Do it tow or three times if needed and make SURE to wear dust protection when sanding the residue off. It is a strong irritant.

egnuol

Thanks Paul and Rick, it is red oak and until I seen that it wasn't too deep in the grain, I thought it was firewood but it turned out great. I get some wood bleach and try it on rough cut that I use alot.