How to avoid blowout - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 Old 03-05-2012, 11:16 PM Thread Starter
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How to avoid blowout

Routing 18 deg raised panel doors. Been having a problem with blow out. The wood I'm using is pine. When I go from rail side to stile side I get a small chunk blown out at the end of the cut. Is there any certain way I should be doing it (ie counter clockwise or clockwise). Any help is much appreciated.
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post #2 of 12 Old 03-05-2012, 11:23 PM
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Are you using a backer piece behind it to support the fibers?

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post #3 of 12 Old 03-05-2012, 11:28 PM Thread Starter
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No. I guess I should. But most of the videos I watched no one was using a backer.
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post #4 of 12 Old 03-05-2012, 11:30 PM
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It works to support those fibers....without it, they will ALWAYS blow out.

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post #5 of 12 Old 03-05-2012, 11:56 PM
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Try routing the end grain first, then the long grain.

When it's rustic......it's rustic
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post #6 of 12 Old 03-06-2012, 01:01 AM
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When raising the panel, start on the end grain, then work your way around counter clockwise, end, side, end, side. The next cuts will remove any blowout.

When cutting the rails and stiles, do the copes on the ends of the rails first and use a backer block. I just use a scrap that has square corners and is large enough to support the rail. I make several and turn them after each cut for a fresh backer. Make sure there isn't a big gap in your router table fence so the work doesn't tip in. Cut the beads after the copes. That way you won't have to cut a coped backer block.

It really helps the quality of the cut if you make several incremental cuts rather than one at full depth.
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post #7 of 12 Old 03-06-2012, 12:28 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hammer1
When raising the panel, start on the end grain, then work your way around counter clockwise, end, side, end, side. The next cuts will remove any blowout.

When cutting the rails and stiles, do the copes on the ends of the rails first and use a backer block. I just use a scrap that has square corners and is large enough to support the rail. I make several and turn them after each cut for a fresh backer. Make sure there isn't a big gap in your router table fence so the work doesn't tip in. Cut the beads after the copes. That way you won't have to cut a coped backer block.

It really helps the quality of the cut if you make several incremental cuts rather than one at full depth.
Thanks! That was the answer I was searching for.
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post #8 of 12 Old 03-07-2012, 09:58 AM
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You can also try cutting your pieces a little big, routing, then trim to final size, that way if you do get blow out, it ends up getting cut off anyway.

It's all fun and games until someone loses the Walnut.
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post #9 of 12 Old 03-07-2012, 10:49 AM
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dominic is right when he said to route end grain first and then the edge grain. but a backer board is the way to go. another techique is a climb cut. all 3 methods have their place.

build it right or not at all
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post #10 of 12 Old 03-13-2012, 12:26 PM Thread Starter
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Hammer1, used ur technique. Worked flawlessly. Thanks for the tip.
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post #11 of 12 Old 03-14-2012, 11:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OKIEhoma View Post
No. I guess I should. But most of the videos I watched no one was using a backer.

HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA
They want you to buy the book & DVD

You can use a backer OR you can leave the wood with some stock on it to remove later - it all depends.
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post #12 of 12 Old 03-14-2012, 12:30 PM Thread Starter
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No books or DVDs, just free videos from this new thing called YouTube. There's actually a lot of professionals that put some good instructional videos on YouTube. Didn't need a backer piece, just started with end grain and worked counter clockwise.
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