woodnthings

Take a look at the link I sent to Tony B for a horizontal router table concept. far less complicated than the vertical sliding mount. It just pivots at one end, much like a router table fence to adjust for depth. I think it might work well on the RAS table... But I am generally not in favor of combining operations on one table surface. Since unless you can remove a set up in a hurry when you need the other tool it's a pita, not the sandwich! bill

__________________
Never stand directly in front of a horse or tablesaw that's running!
If you're not making dust, you're gathering it. After I reread my own posts, I agree with myself even more.

Tony B

The attached sketch is the about the best I can remember how I built the horizontal router table. I'm sure that if I built another one, it would come back to me. I also used a screw from underneath as a set screw to adjust the height. It was all quite simple.
I do remember that the biggest problem I had was supporting the router support board from the backside so that it would remain stable and solid. I had a Bosch router that weighed about 11 lbs. I used right angle plywood supports with cross pieces. I think you would have the same problem with the sketch Cabinetman provided but it could easily be solved.

Attached Thumbnails

 

__________________
Tony B

http://www.thetexaswoodworks.com

Alex121

Here is my horizontal router set-up-

it's a 2 1/4hp router mounted on the carriage of my patternmakers lathe-I took a piece of steel plate tapped a hole for a threaded post,the kind that screws on a tool rest,and with hose clamps holding it I can mount it where the tool rest goes-the router has longitudinal and cross travel-the table is an old wood vise with the jaws removed and turned upside down with a table and bolted to the bed of the lathe-the second nut is added to lock the table in place-



mostly I use this set-up to cut mortises ---here after I will refer to this as "my red-neck rigged mortiser"


rounding off the sharp corners
alex