cutting frame members to 45° - Woodworking Talk

niki · 10-23-2008, 05:10 AM

Good day

I would like to share with you a different way (as far as I know), of cutting 45° frames.

Instead of messing with angles and protractors, I’m using a big, dedicated triangle.
The cutting method is “Left” and “Right” to overcome deviations from 45° and 90° (if any).

One important point.
I’m cutting the frame members to “final dimensions”, before cutting the 45°.
As you will see in the pictures, the triangle vertex is positioned at the center of the kerf, which means that, every cut will shorten the member by ½ a kerf width and, because we are cutting each member from both sides, each member will be shortened by 1 kerf width.
If you are using a 1/8" kerf blade, add 1/8" to the “final dimensions” to get your planed dimensions after cutting.

The rest of the story, is on the pictures.

Regards
niki

GeorgeC · 10-23-2008, 06:58 AM

Very nice. You provide such good explanations and ideal jigs.

Your timing on this new jig was ironic. On the new posts on my computer the topic immediately above was a worker asking how to cut a 2x4 lengthwise with a 45 degree bevel using only a circular saw. When I saw the word "frame" in your topic I was imagining frame to be like in 2x4 house framing. I could not imagine why there was such a need in house building for 45 degree bevel cuts.

Just my imiganation.

G

Handyman · 10-23-2008, 09:21 AM

Niki Has done it again. Many thank for your input on this thread Niki. I have always enjoyed your post. Informative and educational. Thats whats it all about. Thanks Handyman

mdlbldrmatt135 · 10-23-2008, 12:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GeorgeC

Very nice. You provide such good explanations and ideal jigs.

Your timing on this new jig was ironic. On the new posts on my computer the topic immediately above was a worker asking how to cut a 2x4 lengthwise with a 45 degree bevel using only a circular saw. When I saw the word "frame" in your topic I was imagining frame to be like in 2x4 house framing. I could not imagine why there was such a need in house building for 45 degree bevel cuts.

Just my imiganation.

G

Speed square............

niki · 10-23-2008, 01:44 PM

Thank you so much for your kind wards

GeorgeC
You are correct

I changed the title to "Cutting picture frame members at 45°"...
That gives a better idea what I'm talking about.

Regards
niki

firehawkmph · 10-23-2008, 09:45 PM

Niki,
You are 'King of the Jigs'. Nice job on all the setups you have shown us.
Mike Hawkins

niki · 10-24-2008, 02:11 PM

Thank you so much Mike

Let me "show off" a little bit....I don't have any "Gloats" - my table saw is not something to be admired of and the router table is actually a.......workmate and, that's all the "Heavy machinery" that I have

This idea of putting the stop at the front was selected as a "Top Shop Tip" by Wood Magazine and they gave me the latest "Fain Multimaster"...nice tool...

At this occasion, you can see how the monkey looks

cutting-frame-members-45-wood_mar2008_nikiavrahami_thetoptipster.jpg

Gerry KIERNAN · 10-25-2008, 11:45 AM

Another fine presentation niki.

Gerry

nailgunner7 · 10-25-2008, 08:36 PM

Bravo Niki,
It is great to see that some Magicians really do reveal their secrets. Keep'em coming!

Paul Haggett · 01-02-2009, 04:51 PM

Fantastic idea Niki, it cuts out all the possible inaccuracies encountered by using mitre squares etc. I like this method because you are cutting from the face side of your material on either side of the blade. Like how you have adapted your hold down clamps.
Do I take it you wind the blade up through your work to make your cuts?
Thankyou for making things so clear
Paul Haggett

Quote:

Originally Posted by niki

Good day

I would like to share with you a different way (as far as I know), of cutting 45° frames.

Instead of messing with angles and protractors, I’m using a big, dedicated triangle.
The cutting method is “Left” and “Right” to overcome deviations from 45° and 90° (if any).

One important point.
I’m cutting the frame members to “final dimensions”, before cutting the 45°.
As you will see in the pictures, the triangle vertex is positioned at the center of the kerf, which means that, every cut will shorten the member by ½ a kerf width and, because we are cutting each member from both sides, each member will be shortened by 1 kerf width.
If you are using a 1/8" kerf blade, add 1/8" to the “final dimensions” to get your planed dimensions after cutting.

The rest of the story, is on the pictures.

Regards
niki