Circular Saw Cross Cutting Jig - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum
 
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post #1 of 11 Old 09-19-2011, 04:58 PM Thread Starter
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Circular Saw Cross Cutting Jig

Hello everybody, long time lurker first time poster.
I was interested in building some type of jig that I could cross cut boards like pine 1 x 3's but probably no bigger than 1 x 12's. All the same length.
I was thinking along the lines of a chop saw station where there is a fence square to a table but where the chop saw could go there would be a guide for a circular saw. A stop could be put on the fence and every piece would be the same.
Does anyone have ideas on the best way to do this? or maybe a pic of something that you have built?
Thanks allot and hope to hear from everyone soon.
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post #2 of 11 Old 09-19-2011, 07:22 PM
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cross cut jig for circular saw

I never made this one, but it sounds like what you need. bill
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The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specfic. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo

Last edited by woodnthings; 09-20-2011 at 10:06 AM.
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post #3 of 11 Old 09-19-2011, 08:36 PM
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A very simple jig to make is similar to a "T" square. It's not like a bench station, but all you do is make a mark where to cut and the right side lines up the cut line to the blade.
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post #4 of 11 Old 09-20-2011, 07:39 AM
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I wanna build sth similar and your tips are pretty good. Thanks!
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post #5 of 11 Old 09-20-2011, 07:52 AM
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C-man's jig idea is also great for routing dados. Of course, you need one for for each size bit you use.
For cross cuts, I just use a "Speed Square". Mark the cut line and align the saw blade, slide the Speed Square up to the saw's shoe and cut.
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post #6 of 11 Old 09-20-2011, 08:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene Howe View Post
C-man's jig idea is also great for routing dados. Of course, you need one for for each size bit you use.
For cross cuts, I just use a "Speed Square". Mark the cut line and align the saw blade, slide the Speed Square up to the saw's shoe and cut.
That cross cut jig I posted is great for a circular saw. But, for routing dadoes, the jig should be clamped, and I have a different one for that:
http://www.woodworkstuff.net/CabManRteDadoJig.html








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post #7 of 11 Old 09-20-2011, 09:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cabinetman View Post
That cross cut jig I posted is great for a circular saw. But, for routing dadoes, the jig should be clamped, and I have a different one for that:
.
Absolutely clamp! I shouldn't have assumed.
My guide pieces are about 3" wide so clamping is accomplished there. I use a Freud with one flat side on the plate. Otherwise, a square aux. plate would be best, I think. I just don't trust that round plates are always true.
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post #8 of 11 Old 09-20-2011, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene Howe View Post
Absolutely clamp! I shouldn't have assumed.
My guide pieces are about 3" wide so clamping is accomplished there. I use a Freud with one flat side on the plate. Otherwise, a square aux. plate would be best, I think. I just don't trust that round plates are always true.

I still hold that making the jig for guide bushing use is the best approach. That way you not only don't worry about round/flat/square plate, your not even concerned with the size plate. Use any router in the arsenal that takes bushings. JMHO

John

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post #9 of 11 Old 09-20-2011, 10:07 AM
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Router guides?

The original question was about circular saws....just sayin' bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specfic. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo
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post #10 of 11 Old 09-20-2011, 02:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnthings View Post
The original question was about circular saws....just sayin' bill
Oooops, Sorry about that

John

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post #11 of 11 Old 09-30-2011, 02:45 PM
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Here is a possible solution i made this week. The Jig will be updated, but thatīs the status quo:



Fitting in a steel measurement.






The red arrow shows the side to be in 90degree angle with the saw an the cutting direction.



Just screw the rail via wing nuts onto the jig.



A perfect 27cm cut (for example)



90degree

max. cutting high is 3cm at the moment (possible up to 4cm).
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