Bandsaw blade sharpening DIY - Page 2 - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum

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post #21 of 32 Old 08-28-2011, 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by bikeshooter View Post
Maybe a shim on both sides of the blade would hold it in the jig. It's on sale now for $25 close to the price of a new blade. Should be worth a shot.
How is the motor on that Chicago Electric (HF) grinder? After burning up the motors on two angle grinders from HF, I'm really leary about HFs electric motors.

P.S. The photo of the grinder didn't move along with the quote. See photo above.
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post #22 of 32 Old 08-29-2011, 06:24 AM
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How is the motor on that Chicago Electric (HF) grinder? After burning up the motors on two angle grinders from HF, I'm really leary about HFs electric motors.

P.S. The photo of the grinder didn't move along with the quote. See photo above.
I picked up the sharpener (@$25) from HF on Sat and a 1" wide blade will just barely fit in the guide. Anything wider will not fit. It was late when I tried this and haven't gotten any further but it looks promising. If I can resharpen just 2 blades I have paid for the tool. After I crown some bandsaw tires I'll have a go resharpening a 1" blade and post the results.

"The LORD inhabits the praises of HIS people."


r.i.p. Marco Simoncelli - 10-23-2011
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post #23 of 32 Old 09-01-2011, 09:53 PM
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It works.

I destroyed a new 1" blade while learning a new to me band saw. I installed new tires but did not crown them. On the second cut the blade lunged forward about 1/2" or so into the cast iron housing. It's a 16" Walker-Turner from about 1945.


The hf sharpener will just barely hold a 1" wide band saw blade. I set the blade at 90 degrees to the grinding wheel and just went by eye. The blade had to be turned inside out to put the teeth at the correct angle also. Also, the depth stop bolt is too short for a band saw blade. A suitable replacement should be available. The chain stop gauge could not be used either because of the frequency of teeth band saw blade. I wore a cotton glove to advance the blade.

After the blade was resharpened I tested it on some 6" oak and it was like a hot knife through butter. I used it the rest of the day on 5 - 8" magnolia and it is just now started to dull somewhat. I also used PAM every 3 to 5 minutes.

It took about 45 minutes to resharpen a 112" ,3tpi blade that cost me about $25. All in all I'm happy with the results and the price of the sharpener.

"The LORD inhabits the praises of HIS people."


r.i.p. Marco Simoncelli - 10-23-2011
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post #24 of 32 Old 09-02-2011, 06:26 AM
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Good thread.

I've researched this quite a bit in the past but just got a dremel a month ago. Most of what I've read said to sharpen the top edge of the tooth, and do the gullet only if you want to be extra thorough.

Has anyone compared blade performance between 1.) top-only sharpened, 2.) gullet-only sharpened, and 3.) both?
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post #25 of 32 Old 09-02-2011, 06:46 AM
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Nice saw Bike!

When we cut fibre glass in building bows(archery)as part of the process......being too cheap to invest in diamond blades......"dulling" a blade is inevitable,duh.And it happens rather quickly.We use 14" BS's for this cause.....well we're cheap,the 14's being cheaper to trash.

We never use fancy sharpening equip.Either a handsaw sharpening vise or lengths of steel used in bench vise......both work about the same.There was a learning curve,and this is/wasn't a very scientific approach cause,the blades gonna get trashed again.We just take a cheapo die grinder with whizz-wheels and have at it.With the teeth pointing away,IOWs you stand/grind pulling back twds yourself,blade runnin at at right angle.Once you get a feel for letting the wheel just "ride" the teeth,the process goes pretty quick.

Resharpened blades seem to have a deminishing return of sorts.Meaning they'll never stay sharp as long as the factory grind.....this reduces everytime its sharpen'd.On a wood only blade,I'd expect maybe 3 resharpens,but thats gonna last a loooong time.We never even bother'd with "set" on the glass blades,just keep touchin them up.BW

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post #26 of 32 Old 09-02-2011, 08:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Streamwinner View Post
Good thread.

I've researched this quite a bit in the past but just got a dremel a month ago. Most of what I've read said to sharpen the top edge of the tooth, and do the gullet only if you want to be extra thorough.

Has anyone compared blade performance between 1.) top-only sharpened, 2.) gullet-only sharpened, and 3.) both?
I used a dremel on a 72" blade. For me is was difficult as I have a very short attention span and unsteady hands. Staying at the suggested 90 degree proved to be too much for me so I tried the hf tool.

Now that you mention it, I did touch the top of teeth as well as the gullet. Gullet first (deepened about 1/16") and then lightly roll over the top of the next tooth [edit:] with the side of the grinding wheel. Using left hand to pull the blade. Hope that makes sense...

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r.i.p. Marco Simoncelli - 10-23-2011

Last edited by bikeshooter; 09-02-2011 at 09:12 AM. Reason: more info
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post #27 of 32 Old 09-02-2011, 09:10 AM
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Nice saw Bike!

When we cut fibre glass in building bows(archery)as part of the process......being too cheap to invest in diamond blades......"dulling" a blade is inevitable,duh.And it happens rather quickly.We use 14" BS's for this cause.....well we're cheap,the 14's being cheaper to trash.

We never use fancy sharpening equip.Either a handsaw sharpening vise or lengths of steel used in bench vise......both work about the same.There was a learning curve,and this is/wasn't a very scientific approach cause,the blades gonna get trashed again.We just take a cheapo die grinder with whizz-wheels and have at it.With the teeth pointing away,IOWs you stand/grind pulling back twds yourself,blade runnin at at right angle.Once you get a feel for letting the wheel just "ride" the teeth,the process goes pretty quick.

Resharpened blades seem to have a deminishing return of sorts.Meaning they'll never stay sharp as long as the factory grind.....this reduces everytime its sharpen'd.On a wood only blade,I'd expect maybe 3 resharpens,but thats gonna last a loooong time.We never even bother'd with "set" on the glass blades,just keep touchin them up.BW
Nice saw Bike!
Yeah, I think so too. I'm only the 3rd owner of a 65 year old machine. Both previous owners passed and the wives eventually sold it. The second owner bought it in '75.

3 resharpens per blade is pretty much what I've found from research online and I can sure live with that. I suspect that I'll get faster with the resharpen process with practice too. It'll be interesting to see how the meat blade reacts to being resharpened.

"The LORD inhabits the praises of HIS people."


r.i.p. Marco Simoncelli - 10-23-2011

Last edited by bikeshooter; 09-02-2011 at 10:22 PM. Reason: correct date
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post #28 of 32 Old 09-02-2011, 10:15 PM Thread Starter
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hey shooter

How's 'bout some pictures of the sharpener set up with a blade in it and the before and after on a tooth or two? Do you mount it to a table? Do you support the blade off the table at the height of the holder etc? This is a good idea and as I said earlier it's one I considered but never got around to doing. I have the same sharpener so I'd like to see you approach. Thanks, bill

The answer to your question will only be as detailed and specific as the question is detailed and specfic. Good questions also include a sketch or a photo
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post #29 of 32 Old 09-02-2011, 10:24 PM
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How's 'bout some pictures of the sharpener set up with a blade in it and the before and after on a tooth or two? Do you mount it to a table? Do you support the blade off the table at the height of the holder etc? This is a good idea and as I said earlier it's one I considered but never got around to doing. I have the same sharpener so I'd like to see you approach. Thanks, bill
I going to resharpen a 3/4" blade in the morning - pics will be coming.

"The LORD inhabits the praises of HIS people."


r.i.p. Marco Simoncelli - 10-23-2011
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post #30 of 32 Old 09-03-2011, 11:00 AM
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Well, here's the basics. Admittedly the process needs to be improved for a more consistent tooth shape but the concept works pretty well. I mounted a clip light over my left shoulder for the actual sharpening so I could see what I was doing and knelt on one knee to do the work.

After deepening the gullet, I lightly advanced the blade to the left to shape the top of the next tooth with the side of the grinding wheel.

The three teeth underlined with chalk are what I have done so far.
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"The LORD inhabits the praises of HIS people."


r.i.p. Marco Simoncelli - 10-23-2011
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post #31 of 32 Old 09-16-2011, 05:24 PM
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I sharpen my blades this way all the time. Learned from an incredible Aussie furniture maker.
So there's two ways to do it with a dremel. First is with a cut off wheel... You aproach the bottom if the tooth squarely with the face of the cutoff wheel. This only sharpens the face of the tooth. The second and I feel most effective is to use a chainsaw stone. Find the dive stone that is the closest match to the radius of your gullets. Hold the dremel perpendicular to the blade and parallel with the table. Grind the face of the toothe lightly pull down grinding the gullet and top of the tooth. Be cafeful that you don't grind down the top of the tooth and let the dremel grind over the tip as this rounds the tip and makes for more grinding on the face of the next tooth.
Using this method I can sharpen a 159" 3-4 tooth blade in about 10 minutes. Takes a lil practice at first. You don't need to be overly OCD about it either.
I've found that grinding the face and top of the tooth produces a better cut.
If you take the time to do this you will be rewarded with a screaming sharp blade. I actually feel that blades sharpened like this are often better than factory(except really premium blades).
Like said before. What do you have to loose. A dull as old blade that's not worth sending out. Give it a shot it's quite easy.
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post #32 of 32 Old 11-11-2011, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob Willing View Post
You just gave me an idea to use my $19.95 HF power chain saw sharpener on. I have a number of blades that need sharpening. The sharpener jig can go left and right 30 degrees and "O" as well, and anything in between. I'll just need to work out how to hold the blade similar to the CSS. If it works I will post some pics. The HF sharpener was $49.95 on sale.
I have the same HF sharpener and seriously looked at how to set it up for bandsaw blades. I gav,ce it a shot then resorted to using the Dremel for the short term. If you figure it out that would be great! bill
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