Wizard1500

I built a sacrificial fence for my table saw, from poplar. Sanded very smooth, but should I put a coat of paste car wax on the blade side? Or, should I treat the wood with something else. TIA.....

woodnthings

But don't use a silicon based wax as car waxes are sometimes. The silicon might transfer to your project and cause a finishing issue, remote but possible. Is this a sacrificial fence or just an extension to the original? That doesn't make any difference as to the waxing, however. A clear coat of lacquer from a rattle can or poly if you have some handy is also OK. I don't even wax mine, but it certainly will do no harm.
Generally fences are not made from poplar, but if it's a good straight grained wood it should hold it's shape just fine. bill

__________________
Never stand directly in front of a horse or tablesaw that's running!
If you're not making dust, you're gathering it. After I reread my own posts, I agree with myself even more.

Wizard1500

Thanks, Bill. I made a 3 sided box (1/4" longer than the rip fence), and bolted it to the right side t-slot on the fence....it is about 3/4" wider than the fence. Would I have been better off to use 3/4" baltic birch ply?.....

woodnthings

I just watched a U-tube video by Charles Neil, A prolific master woodworker, furniture maker, showing a 6' long 3 sided box that slides along the Beisemeyer fence to straight line rip boards of that length. He used a 1/2" substrate I believe. I'll post the link. bill

__________________
Never stand directly in front of a horse or tablesaw that's running!
If you're not making dust, you're gathering it. After I reread my own posts, I agree with myself even more.

Wizard1500

Good video......thanks.....

Bob Willing

Great vidio, but did you notice he did not use a push stick on his last cut. Bad habit. I am still having a problem typing because I did not use one and I cut my index finger tip and half of the finger nail down to the bone. I now use two push sticks! My new rule is that if I use two hands to rip a board use two push sticks. Believe me there will come a time you will not get that hand out of the way. I am 70 and it never happened until just recently.

woodnthings

Glad to hear you're are doing better, but I am curious: Was this accident caused by pushing a board through past the blade, right handed with the work between the fence and the fence on the far right side of the blade? Did the "pushed" work piece spin around and kickback or just what caused your fingers to get in the blade? I've done this repeatedly and really only use a push stick when the pieces are less than 6" or so wide and then I hook a finger or two over the fence just in case. Granted a push stick should always be used when it requires a hand or fingers past the front of the blade. Another question was a splitter or riving knife inplace? You may have posted this before, but since you mentioned it it would be great for others to know what happened. If you want to post a new thread, I don't mean to HIJACK this one. Thanks, bill

__________________
Never stand directly in front of a horse or tablesaw that's running!
If you're not making dust, you're gathering it. After I reread my own posts, I agree with myself even more.

Bob Willing

Old and feel like an idiot here is the link to my original posting. Yes the fence was on the right. I also made a comment in the turning section about someone cutting pieces for segment turning in which he used his left hand much the same way I had always done in the past, guiding the board with both hands only I forgot to pull my left hand out of the way. Every thing happened so fast I really don't know how it happen all I remember was hitting the off switch with my thigh and than pulling my hand back and looking at the mess, and quickly grabbing a rag. I was ripping a 1X6 into 2" pieces and it was on the second pass that it happened. No the piece did not kick back. Everything was as I had left it including the blood soaked wood particles stuck to the fence, when I returned from having the stitches . No a spiltter was not in place and the left scrap piece was not binding, it was bowing to the left.

Go to this site http://www.woodturningonline.com/Tur....html#beginner and select "segmented hollow bowls" watch the left hand in the first part of the video, and that is what I was doing. I am sure we all do this but you never know when we get lost in the moment and forget to take our hand away.

GeorgeC

I am with you on the TWO push sticks. That is my normal mode, unless the excess material to the LEFT of the blade is VERY wide.

George

woodnthings

I don't put my left hand anywhere on the table until finished cutting and just use a push stick for under 6" wide or my right hand for wider stock. It's too easy to forget what you're doing and have a "brain fart" and BTH...Bad Things Happen The idea is to push forward into the blade and to the right into the fence simultaneously I don't know how you can do this adequately using 2 push sticks without one overriding the other. I also use a jointer push block that hooks over the edge of thin stock when necessary. It's about what works best for you of course, but accidents can be minimized by avoiding Murphy"s Law: If it can go wrong, it will. JMO bill
I guess we did Hijack the Thread, but we answered the question posted, so no harm, no foul, I trust.....

__________________
Never stand directly in front of a horse or tablesaw that's running!
If you're not making dust, you're gathering it. After I reread my own posts, I agree with myself even more.