Woodworking Talk Logo
    Forum     Photos     DIY Forum     Contact Us  
Designs | Joinery | Trim Carpentry | Woodturning | Wood Finishes | Tools| Project Showcase
Go Back   Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum > Forestry Talk > Forestry & Milling
Saw Mill Saw Mill
Register Woodworking Photos FAQ Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
Page 2 of 2 < 1 2
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 11-07-2009, 10:04 AM   #21
Gerald
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Near Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 21
View Gerald's Photo Album My Photos

Old Gallery
Default

I originally created this topic because my son and I were planning on getting a small mill and I had a few questions. That has not materialized yet but maybe in the future. I also think that my son's concept of a small mill compared to mine is totally different.
The issue at hand now is my son has brought home from work (works for the county) a few very large maple logs (38" to 42" dia. --6 ft to 8 ft long) and he tells me there are more to come. They are large enough that the equipment I have is unable to handle them. My guess is they are 3-4000 pounds each but thats just a guess. I would like to get these to a mill to be sawed. If I quarter or half these logs am I screwing them up? or Do I try and cut some kind if cant to lighten them up? (Chainsaw)
This maybe not the most effcient way of max. the yield but I could handle them better. The next question is how long can I let them sit before they start to rot? These were fresh cut yesterday. I don't know what type of maple they are?
Any info would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Gerald
Gerald is offline   Reply With Quote
Join Contractor Talk

Join the #1 Woodworking Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

Do you love woodworking? Are you looking to connect with other woodworkers? If so we invite you to join our community and see what it has to offer. Our site is specifically designed for you and it's the leading place for woodworkers to meet online. No matter what your skill level you'll find that WoodworkingTalk.com is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally free!

Join WoodworkingTalk.com - Click Here JOIN FOR FREE

Also view our DIY Forum here

Warning: The topics covered on this site include activities in which there exists the potential for serious injury or death. WoodworkingTalk.com DOES NOT guarantee the accuracy or completeness of any information contained on this site. Always use proper safety precaution and reference reliable outside sources before attempting any woodworking or home improvement task!
Old 11-07-2009, 11:37 AM   #22
TexasTimbers
Moderator
 
TexasTimbers's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 3,274
View TexasTimbers's Photo Album My Photos

Old Gallery
Default

You're pretty close on the weight. Closer to 3000 if Big leaf and closer yo 4000 if Sugar.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerald View Post
If I quarter or half these logs am I screwing them up?
Maybe not screwing them up, but certainly not getting the wide stock that would bring a premium compared to less than half the width you'd get otherwise.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerald View Post
or Do I try and cut some kind if cant to lighten them up? (Chainsaw
This gets my vote if you can get it done, and halving them won't get the widest stock either cause you won't find a band mill that can cut them parallel to half. Though a circle mill could, if you can find one that'll cut it ......


Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerald View Post
The next question is how long can I let them sit before they start to rot?
I don't know cause my Maple can't be compared to your hard Maple and my region is vastly different. I suspect the Maple guys will tell you to get them dried as soon as you can. ???


Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerald View Post
I don't know what type of maple they are?
Any info would be appreciated.
Pictures man. Pictures. You had to know that was coming. And if they have any spalt I guess you'd know that if you saw it correct?

I'm not usually greedy - I mean, I have so many great species down here, but I still wish I could stumble across a grove of hard Maple one day. A man can dream . . . . .
__________________
.


.

Dovetail Spline Jig
Flame Box Elder

Last edited by TexasTimbers; 11-07-2009 at 11:45 AM. Reason: missing paragraph
TexasTimbers is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2009, 12:00 PM   #23
Gerald
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Near Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 21
View Gerald's Photo Album My Photos

Old Gallery
Default

TT thanks for the reply.
Spalting --Didn't really see any on the end cuts looked to be very solid and very clean/white. I'll have to get some pictures posted.

thanks
Gerald is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2009, 09:05 PM   #24
dirtclod
dirtclod
 
dirtclod's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 325
View dirtclod's Photo Album My Photos

Old Gallery
Default

Gerlad,
Three kinds of maple are native to your area: sugar, red, and silver. All three are very prone to rot. Coat the ends , get them off the ground and under an airy cover until you come up with a plan. They'll do ok through winter, although the white wood will yellow/gray some, but about late April the degrade will accelerate. By August expect to see some light spalting and by the following summer they will either be fully spalted or outright punky.

Check out the mills available in your area before you touch them with a saw. We had a big Amish circle mill here (closed now) that could take a 40" log. But moving those beast to the mill is a challenge and, even though they can in theory cut them, they didn't like to max their mill becasue those beast are hard to move/position.

Your best option is to find a swing mill to break them down in place so you don't have to move them. But it depends on what you want to make from them. Maybe a swing mill w/slabber attachment would be best as it can make both thinner flitches and thicker flitches/cants that can be finished off on a band mill. You may get lucky and find an operator that has both a swing mill and a band mill that can both break them down in place then move them to the band mill to finish them off with max yield/quality. But don't partially process them and leave cant's too long before finishing them off or you'll get large checks/warp/bow/etc.

Pictures would be welcome. But it can be hard to tell sugar and red maple apart at this time of year. Get some end grain and bark shots. Twig/bud and leaf shots would also be helpful.
dirtclod is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-08-2009, 11:48 AM   #25
Daren
Moderator
 
Daren's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: central Illinois
Posts: 3,438
View Daren's Photo Album My Photos

Old Gallery
Send a message via Skype™ to Daren
Default

Your question about how long they will lay this time of year dirtclod answered, you have all winter. Here is one way to mill logs in the size range you are talking about Working with logs "too big" for the mill
__________________


http://nelsonwoodworks.biz/ ...Urban logging/tool sharpening

Daren is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2009, 08:57 AM   #26
Gerald
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Near Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 21
View Gerald's Photo Album My Photos

Old Gallery
Default

Dirtclod,
Thanks for the help.
I'll let you know what I find/figure out. I'll have to look around. All I ever see around my area is band mills. But I never have looked for anything else so who knows?


Daren-
I looked at your link to sawing large logs. Did you free hand rip saw that log or did you have some type of fixture to keep the cut fairly even? Also once I figure this out and see how it goes I will need to purchase your kiln plans. One step at a time though. I have to many irons in the fire already.
I am figuring I could get these logs sawed and store them inside for awhile. (I have a pole barn)
Then at a later date finish them off in a kiln if necessary.
Any concerns with that plan?

Last night my son was over hooking up the gooseneck to his truck. My guess is I have more "logs" heading my way.
Not complaining, it's all good.
He is going to be redoing a house and I think he is looking for some custom built kitchen cabinets etc.

Thanks again for the help.
Gerald
Gerald is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2009, 09:13 AM   #27
Daren
Moderator
 
Daren's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: central Illinois
Posts: 3,438
View Daren's Photo Album My Photos

Old Gallery
Send a message via Skype™ to Daren
Default

I freehand rip big logs. But if a guy is not comfortable he can get a straight cut they make an attachment that just clamps on your bar and rides down a 2x4 you fasten to the log. One is called the Beammachine, I see others on ebay too $25-$30. I have never used one but they look like they would work to me.

There is no problem at all with air drying first before you kiln dry. As long as you know what you are doing air drying, especially maple it is prone to sticker stain. We have links to air dry info here in a reference thread. I will just copy it here in case you need to do some reading on it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daren View Post
3 links from a discussion in the "forestry and milling" section. dirtclod has a couple good ones http://www.chilternsaonb.org/downloa..._of_Timber.pdf

http://nrs.fs.fed.us/pubs/rp/rp_nc228.pdf

I had one bookmarked too. Between these 3 I reckon there is about all you need to know on the subject
http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplgtr/fplgtr117.pdf
__________________


http://nelsonwoodworks.biz/ ...Urban logging/tool sharpening


Last edited by Daren; 11-09-2009 at 09:44 AM.
Daren is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2009, 02:22 PM   #28
Gerald
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Near Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 21
View Gerald's Photo Album My Photos

Old Gallery
Default

Daren,

I will look into a Beam Machine or something like it. Not sure I could keep freehand the two cuts straight enough to make an easy split.

Thanks for the info on drying also.
Let you know how things work out.

Gerald
Gerald is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2009, 10:46 AM   #29
sdefoe
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 4
View sdefoe's Photo Album My Photos

Old Gallery
Default

Big logs are no problem for the Lucas. I purchased the smallest one they had 3 years ago. (13 horse motor, cuts a 6.25 x 6.25 cant) I purchased the slabber with it. (At my wife's insistence!) I have cut 48" wide slabs from cedar, sycamore and walnut with no problems. Handling the logs was no problem because I was able to cut the logs near where they fell. (Rolled the cedar and the walnut under the saw.) The sycamore was for a city near me which wanted to do something with the trees they had cut to clear room for a library. The city hauled them to the landfill and laid them out like cigars on flat ground.) They were big (30"-48" diameter) and very heavy. Easily the heaviest I have cut so far.

Also, I am not a logs to lumber pro. I am a hobby woodworker who saw an opportunity to pick up wood for less expense. The wood I have cut has paid for the saw and all accessories about four times over. It takes work, but I am now have several thousand dollars worth of beautiful wood, cut to my own specs. I have assisted the City to utilize the wood cut from their trees.

If you want more info, I am an infrequent poster to this site, but will watch more closely. Steve
sdefoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2009, 11:02 AM   #30
Daren
Moderator
 
Daren's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: central Illinois
Posts: 3,438
View Daren's Photo Album My Photos

Old Gallery
Send a message via Skype™ to Daren
Default

Hi Steve. Glad to have a guy with a swing mill aboard. I have always wanted one myself, may have one soon. Yep they are the berries on the big logs that's for sure.
__________________


http://nelsonwoodworks.biz/ ...Urban logging/tool sharpening

Daren is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply
Page 2 of 2 < 1 2

« Previous Thread | Next Thread »
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode
Hybrid Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode
Threaded Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
chainsaw mill Rick C. Forestry & Milling 11 06-19-2009 01:12 AM
My Mill Juniperlampguy Forestry & Milling 7 02-13-2009 08:34 PM
Slab Mill bradleywellsoff Forestry & Milling 33 01-23-2009 06:11 PM
Maxing out your mill Daren Forestry & Milling 11 06-18-2008 07:56 PM
My new Ripsaw mill is here! jeffreythree Forestry & Milling 12 05-25-2008 01:43 PM

Top of Page | View New Posts

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:04 PM.

Contact Us - Woodworking Forum - Top

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2009, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.2.0
Woodworking Talk © 2005 - 2009 The Building Network LLC
Our Network: Contractor Forum | DIY Forum | Painting Forum | Electrician Forum | Drywall Forum