1000 Table saw - Woodworking Talk

Ratt · 04-26-2009, 04:50 AM

I have 1000 to put into a new table saw of corse I want the bigest and the best for my money and being somewhat new to this I need alot of help. I know that I can do better my craftsman now that I have seen some of the info I have seen But I know I'm not NORM with a 30,000 shop full but I just want to turn out some good stuff any help would be helpful thanks

knotscott · 04-26-2009, 06:09 AM

It's tough to beat the Grizzly 1023SL, that happens to be on sale for $1075 with free s/h. It's a 3hp industrial style cabinet saw that's well proven and very popular in this price range. Any of 2hp or more will require 220v operation. If you don't have 220v, and don't plant to get it, you'll be limited to hybrid saws or contractor saws of < 2hp.

Otherwise a good used saw might be your best bet.

rrbrown · 04-27-2009, 02:22 AM

I'm with knotscott a lot of saw for the price and free shipping to boot.

jkristia · 04-27-2009, 10:05 AM

I'm too am looking to upgrade my table saw from a cheap Roybi to something better (do not have 220V in the garage), and I was looking at the Grizzly G0661 ($800), but instead I have decided to save up some more money and go with the SawStop contractors saw. I know it is twice the price, but my fingers are worth that.

Jesper

woodnthings · 04-27-2009, 12:29 PM

I just wonder if a Saw Stop is really worth it? Granted it's a well designed saw and has great features, but I keep thinking that you may develop a false sense of security with the SS. There are a few other ways to get hurt on a table saw, kickback for one. And the Saw Stop won't help you there. Just me, but been around tablesaws for 45 yrs or so, still have all 10 digits, never even came close, a few kick backs but that's all. I ride a 100+ HP Harley and always wear a helmet, it's the law and it's my own law, having gone over the bars and heard my full coverage helmet hit the concrete. It's a safety device I can believe in. I don't take chances with the bike or the table saw. Safe is safe, wrong is wrong. If it were me... I'd get the 10" Grizzly and have $600 left to buy a jointer....but, that's just me.

bill
PS Go for the 220v in the garage. It'll cost about $100 give or take.

rrbrown · 04-27-2009, 03:02 PM

Hey Bill I agree with you to a degree, Saw Stop features or not you must repect the saw and the danger that it carries. I respect my tools tramendously but I had a peice of wood shatter and kick back on me about 2 months ago. It hurt like hell even had some blood but I can still count to ten. That said if I had the money I would get the Saw Stop not just for the safety features but that is one well built saw. Remember these saws are ment to last forever and be handed down to our children. I am teaching him to respect the tools but I would much rather him cut on the Saw Stop just incase.

I have the Shop Fox cabinet saw with 7' rails and love it. Before that I had a grizzley and for the money and free shipping from what I have heard its well worth it.

johnv51 · 04-27-2009, 04:06 PM

I have the Griz 1023 with 7' rails and love it.

Julian the woodnut · 04-27-2009, 08:01 PM

I say go for the Grizzly saw too. I have heard nothing but great remarks about the sae, and their customer support.

As for the sawstop, I think it's not worth the extra money. Sure I can't put a value on my digits, but I'm keeping them attached by paying attention. The only woodworkers I personally know that have lost digits were due to radial arm saws that bound up and pulled the wood, and hand into the blade. I don't buy a car because it has 20 airbags, and traction control, so why would I look for that in a saw? It doesn't stop the saw from kickbacks, which probably amounts to more injuries than the blade.

mmtools · 04-28-2009, 10:06 AM

Look at the Steel City 3HP Cabinet Saw. Lots of features, good price, Great value!!

jkristia · 04-28-2009, 12:50 PM

sure it is a personal opinion whether the safety is worth the extra money or not, but I just read a thread on another forum named something like 'show me your injury', and after reading that I'm almost freaked out and even more convinced the extra safety is what I want. And sure it can not prevent kickbacks, and kickbacks can be nasty too (there is a pucture of a person with 3 torn fingers from a kickback) but to me (again this is completely a personal opinion) eliminating just one of the risks is worth it.

Jesper

johnjf0622 · 04-28-2009, 01:14 PM

I have to agree with previous comments. Although the Saw Stop is a nice safety feature it isn't going to stop you from getting hurt from a kickback. Paying attention is the best thing I also have all my digits and make it a rule that as soon as something that can cause damage (like taking limbs and such off) is turned on no one is to talk to me. Plenty of conversations with the wife ave stopped mid sentence case the tolls was turned on. Plus it is a good way not to have to discuss a touchy subject anymore at that moment.

BobbyfromHouston · 04-29-2009, 12:51 PM

I would go with the Grizzly and get the 220 connection for it and another tool or two for future use. Having the option of using 220 will come in handy in the future.

SawStop makes a great tablesaw with or without the stop feature. I just practice safe woodworking and use appropriate jigs, etc. I have never heard someone say that they regret purchasing the SawStop.
Accidents can happen even with safety gear. I was putting up some OSB on a ceiling with two friends and got a sliver of wood in my eye. I was the only guy wearing safety glasses. Explain that luck to me........
Bobby

Nate1778 · 04-29-2009, 03:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by woodnthings

There are a few other ways to get hurt on a table saw, kickback for one. And the Saw Stop won't help you there.

Your right there, unless of coarse your hand collides with the blade during the kickback, which is what happened to me. Probably still would have cut me but not as bad as it did. The nice features about a SawStop as well are the quick interchange "riving knife" and "Blade Guard". I am sure other manufacturers are doing that as well, it sure makes it easy to be safe compared to the older bolt on models. I will say the quality is top notch, you will not be disappointed in that area.

woodnthings · 04-29-2009, 08:01 PM

I've seen the Saw Stop in person and on the videos, and by all means it is well engineered and well designed, a rare combination. As a retired Industrial Designer "I know one when I see one"

My point earlier, and most have agreed so far, that kickback is as much of a problem, if not more than running your hand into the front of the blade during a "brain fart" moment. By all means, if one has the coin, and that's what they want, drop it for the Saw Stop. Now I don't want to see any Saw Stop owners on the "Let's see some Damage" thread who ran their fingers into the router or jointer, in a "brain fart" moment on these tools either. The router table will kickback at you, the jointer, I doubt it. Shapers are probably the worst.

My friend, a professional custom door maker has had 2 shaper incidents, with 4" and 5" tall shaper cutters on a 10 HP unit. "Yah, I back cut all the time." "But, I know what I'm doing" Well, he has some shorter fingers to show for it, and I greatly respect his knowledge, he works 8 to 12 hour days on them. And these incidents occured at night running late, trying to kick out a job.....
Man, I don't even want to be in the same area code when he's using one of those units! He's got a 16" jointer that will scare you as well. He always says a "dull cutter head is more of a hazard than a wide one." well, that's my $.02 for now,

bill

Nate1778 · 04-29-2009, 09:45 PM

Bill I don't know if you have had a chance to use one, but the new saw I am using has a riving knife. Being my first experience with one as, used to think they were a gimmick at most, but I can say it really helps with the racking of the piece of the blade. I would say that it certainly will help keep kick back to a minimum. I would recommend at least buying a saw with a riving knife if at all possible, no matter whom the manufacturer is.