GeorgeC

I have a repair problem that I do not not know how to tackle. When we moved here 32 years are our bed headboard was broken in the move. We had it repaired, but the repair has since deteriorated.





The repairman did not do anything to strengthen the crack in the rear of the break.

What would you use to fill in for the missing wood? I quess that I will have to carve whatever it is to the initial shape. This time I will either spline the back or use a strip of metal, or maybe even both.

I just do not know how to fill in for the missing material. I have never tried carving but guess there is a first time.

All suggestions will be greately appreciated.

George

Jim Tank

I use Durham's "Rock Hard" water putty. You can mix it to whatever consistancy is easy for you to work with, and add somemore when it dries if neccessary. then you can shape it by filing, whittling, or sanding. it will dry a light blonde so then you get creative with Sharpie marker pens for colorant and "graining". Practice on a couple pices of scrap first to get used to working with different consistancies, and coloring. Then a little Deft in aerosol spray will give you a decent finish without having to respray the whole headboard. It looks like a nice piece. Just wondering .... did they have TV back then or just radio?

woodnthings

Are just trying to make an appearance repair, or are you going to make a structural one that is also an appearance repair, because if it just the former, then the Durhams putty will probably work. If this is a structural repair at a weak point, then I recommend a Dutchman on the backside. That is a bowtie shaped piece set into both sides of the joint to secure it, and then the front can be replaced in a number of different ways. There is an automotive body putty with fibreglass strands that is quite strong, about $13.00 per qt can. I would want the joint to be structurally repaired first. This will require a considerable amount of hand work, chiseling and carving out the recess. A Dremel or other carving tool will help remove the greatest amount of stock, but not destroy the joint in the process. Another approach is to replace the missing wood with a larger Dutchman which then can be carved to match the other side. Best of Luck, bill

__________________
If you're not making dust, you're gathering it. After I reread my own posts, I agree with myself even more.

cabinetman

If the joint is still a little shakey, you could drill a hole from the top right of the joint on an angle to the left into the frame. I can't tell the thickness you have to work with. If it's thin use an 1/8" dowel. If it is thick enough use a 1/4" dowel. Slightly chamfer the leading edge of the dowel that gets the heads first. That will allow a smooth entry without scraping. Glue in the dowel. When cured cut off and flatten to the frame.

For filling in the void, you could use Bondo. It can be tinted to get ya started in the color department. It dries fast and shapes easily. It will take stain. Make a sample and experiment with color and the final topcoat on some dried and sanded Bondo. You could try a rattle can of lacquer, but I'd probably use shellac, or an interior varnish.

GeorgeC

With my skills, I think it would be best for me to get both the bondo and some Durham's. Then I will practise before doing the real work.

I am going to strengthen/repair the joint in some manner. I like the idea of the dowel, but not sure how to get a drill in the space. Maybe with a long bit the angle would not be too bad.

Thanks for the suggestions.

George

PS, TV was in its infancy. However, remember this is in a bedroom and that is not the place to be watching TV!!!

ScottyB

How thick is the wood? It looks like you could use a pocket screw for the structural fix.