What router for TS table? - Woodworking Talk

Capt Crutch · 03-30-2008, 06:09 PM

I'm building a router table/wing for my contractor's saw, and want to get a router to use there.

I remember my Dad said you want a fairly powerful router for use in a router table, and he seemed to like the idea of using a plunge router so you could adjust the height of the cutter in small increments, and I was thinking of getting the new Freud FT3000VCE because it has "above the table" depth adjustments, etc., but I think I once saw an article in one of the woodworking magazines where they said you want to use a non-plunge router in a router table...but I can't remember why the writer said this.

What recommendations can you folks make on this? I can't believe it's taken me this long to get a router! Thanks for any tips.

Jeff

knotscott · 03-30-2008, 08:59 PM

Hi Jeff - Either plunge or fixed is fine. IMO, you're on the right track. The two newest Freud models have excellent above table features. I haven't used the bigger FT3000, but I love the FT1700 for table use due largely for the ability to change bits with one hand from above the table. It actually spends considerably more time in my router table than my big Milwaukee 5625, which is also a very good router.

Dvoigt · 03-31-2008, 12:26 AM

I second the FT1700, alot of table features which is handy, I have the plunge base for it too. I still can't seem to find an edge guide for it though.

Capt Crutch · 03-31-2008, 09:17 AM

Thanks, guys. That's interesting, it looks like the FT1700 has all the same conveniences for use in a table that the FT3000 has.

Now you've got me wondering whether it's worth $120 more for the plunge feature and 2 amps more.

This will be my first router, and I suspect it will spend 80% of its time on the router table and maybe 20% freehand work.

I would like for one router to satisfy all my needs for quite some time, if possible.

Does anyone have any thoughts on:
a) whether I should go with plunge or non-plunge?
b) whether the Freud FT3000 15A plunge router at $290 or the FT1700 13A fixed-base router at $170 is the better deal?
c) Is the FT1700 at 13A strong enough to run panel-raising bits?
d) Is the plunge feature a "plus," a "minus," or a "wash" on a router table?

Thanks again for any advice.

Jeff

knotscott · 03-31-2008, 10:31 AM

I use a plunger very little, and I see little to no benefit for table use, but YMMV....handy to have around for handuse regardless. There is a plunge base available for the 1700, and both are available as a kit. The extra power is always nice to have in a router table, but the added weight becomes a liability for handrouting....15 amp routers are pretty heavy. The 1700 is strong enough to spin the big bits and do some panel raising, but I wouldn't suggest doing alot of them with it.

You're probably eventually going to want two separate routers for dedicated hand and table use. Food for thought when making your choices. If the extra money for the 3000 doesn't break the bank, I'd probably go that route, then would add a smaller hand router later on.

daryl in nanoose · 03-31-2008, 12:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by knotscott

I use a plunger very little, and I see little to no benefit for table use, but YMMV....handy to have around for handuse regardless. There is a plunge base available for the 1700, and both are available as a kit. The extra power is always nice to have in a router table, but the added weight becomes a liability for handrouting....15 amp routers are pretty heavy. The 1700 is strong enough to spin the big bits and do some panel raising, but I wouldn't suggest doing alot of them with it.

You're probably eventually going to want two separate routers for dedicated hand and table use. Food for thought when making your choices. If the extra money for the 3000 doesn't break the bank, I'd probably go that route, then would add a smaller hand router later on.