Chironic, I presume you work with a table saw, and your fence is by now well set and stable. I was dealing with the problem like yours many times, and -- again other than fence -- what is greatly important, is that you provide a strong holding pressure on the side of a piece that goes into the blade. Two things:
(1) use a good feather-board, with the front feather coming close to the blade (and preferably, the full contact length of the feather-board long enough -- close to the length of your piece);
(2) you need a strong holding pressure on your piece as it comes out behind the blade. Of course, you can use another feather-board, but in my experience the best is a good, well-springing splitter. On most of the saws, a splitter is essentially, a part of protector assembly, but I use my own splitters (have made a set of them, using a mild steel, with the thickness slightly smaller than a blade kerf); make sure that the right side of the splitter is flash with the right plane of the blade).
This way, your piece is guided not by the fence alone (which in no way provides good precision), but also by your "left handlers", so that it rides in a well defined channeling structure, and doesn't not depend on operator's errors like unsteady hand, etc. But with all these holding things -- be CAREFUL: use a good pusher that not only pushes your piece, but also hold it down at a sufficient length; try to not put your hand on the piece...
Last edited by AlWood; 01-30-2012 at 05:17 PM.