schleidd

I have been asked to install a tile shower surround and tile floor in a cottage in northern Wisconsin. The cottage is seasonal and the water is drained in the fall and the cottage is not heated during the winter. Will the wood framing behind a tile surround and under the floor shift enough during the temperature extremes that it might cause the tiles or grout to crack? Would a freestanding fiberglass unit and a vinyl floor be a safer install?

demax

Hi schleidd, you have a valid worry.
I build my own 2 bedroom winter retreat from a shell and had the experience in your question. Naturally cold contracts and heat expands after you turn on the water and start that cozy wood fireplace.

Tile shower surround:
I've never seen a tile shower in the mountains and also in Baja Mexico that didn't get some kind of crack in the tiles. But those tiles did not crack from the cold/heat expansion alone but because the underlayment was not properly done including the type of sticking solution used. When I use the word grout that means all grout even the part that hold the tile to the Wonder board. Most Contractors want to get in and out of the house as fast as they can, and don't want to return, "ALL IN ONE DAY" hence they use a waterproof glue that is worth zilch. If you grout your shower 100% it will last longer and will not crack. Be sure to add NO water as most people do. Use that "White Colored" additive full strength. (Sorry I forgot the name but have some at a job I'm doing and will look it up, if you want me to. The secret is to add NO water at all - NONE - to the grout. The job length will take 3 times (if not more) but it will be done right. The cost is also higher, which is also a reason for contractors not to go that route being afraid that they will be under bid.

(Be sure to add a sealer for the grout between the tiles after your all done.)

Flooring Tile:
I would never install a tile floor where temperatures are extreme from high to low & visa versa without underlayment.
The proper way to install a tile floor for your condition is to lay a cheap vinyl floor first. (as cheap as possible or even left overs at some vinyl store.) Now install the tile on top of a clean vinyl floor.
This will act not only as a moisture barrier but avoid contraction and expansion. The grout mix should also contain NO water.

If you follow my suggestion you should have absolutely no problem.
The water shut off for partime use should NOT be just a Gate Valve.
There are special valves for just that reason. And be sure that the shut-off process is used religiously. I've seen some pretty nasty pipe failures --- a very costly mistake.

demax

woodman58

Hello,
Hope this isn't to late!
I am a tile setter by day. The first thing you need to make sure of is to purchase a porcelin tile. It can handle weather changes. Use green water resistant drywall for the walls. A cement backer board for the floor. Use a premium mortor for the floor. Use a premixed white mortor for the walls. As for the grout you can use a product called Spectra-Loc. purchased at Home Depot. For the corners of the walls use a matching color grout caulk. The grout and caulk can handle the movement.