Good advice from TimPa. Here's one of my cardinal rules:
Never put your feed hand or fingers in line with the blade. Keep it to one side or the other, and that will usually be to the right side of the blade. Ripping boards to width is the most common operation on a table saw, so have a push stick/block handy when the piece nears the end of the cut.
Next get your riving kife vs blade thickness figured out. I have drilled out the anti-kickback pawls and removed them They are not useful in my opinion. Often, you just want to make a kerf so far in, then you can't pull the piece back out because the pawls have dug in.
My saws are older and have a splitter plate, not a riving knife. The plates are always there to 1. keep the kerf from closing AND 2. to prevent the far end of the piece from coming away from the fence. When that happens, there is almost always a kickback. The piece rides up and over the top of the spinning blade and returns to the operator with considerable force. The work must always be in continuous contact with the fence.
Crosscutting longer lengths on a table saw leaves much to be desired AND is more safely and accurately done on a miter saw. A table saw "sled" is very handy and a good safety accessory. There are many designs on You Tube and on this site. I posted a build thread on mine:
Table Saw Sled Build
Another very important safety accessory is an outfeed support table. This prevents the work pieces from falling off the far end of the table AND keeps the operator, YOU, from reaching behind the spinning blade to retrieve them!
Support rollers are not the best idea. They are tippy and unless they are set just a bit lower than the table, the workpiece will bump into them and knock them away or over. Once I made my combination outfeed and assembly table I was a very happy woodworker.
Finally, a large paddle ON/OFF switch is a great safety accessory device. If you have to bend down to find the ON/OFF switch your eyes are not looking where they should be. Never take your eyes off the spinning blade on workpiece until the blade is stopped. Murphy's Law say, if it can go wrong, it will. Gravity is another law that is not easily circumvented... if it can fall over, it will.
If your workpiece has a knot, staple or nail protruding from the bottom, it will snag the table and stop the feed process. When that happens bump the "safety paddle" switch OFF with your knee, keeping your hands and eyes in place, the blade stops and wait until you figure out what happened.
A proper blade with the correct number of teeth, like 40 or 50, will make most of the cuts you'll ever need. A 60 tooth blade will make a cleaner cut across the grain. An 80 tooth blade has limited use in my opinion, restricted to crosscuts on a miter saw on hardwood frames and such. A 24 tooth blade is good for ripping thicker stock up to 2" or 3". Thin kerf blades take way less material in the kerf, and therefore require less power to run them. I use them almost exclusively... Freud Diablo.
OK, now you have some suggestions and can begin to learn how to use the saw safely.