STOP a table saw? - Woodworking Talk

Capt Crutch · 02-23-2008, 01:07 PM

I remember my Dad saying that if you got into trouble with a table saw binding or getting ready to kick back due to kerf closure or whatever, you could always "STOP" the saw by forcing the work in so hard that it stalled, and then you could turn off the switch.

I have never done this and honestly don't know whether I'd want to try.

For the folks much more experienced than me, is this something you ever do?

**Leo G** · 02-23-2008, 03:48 PM

I'd never do it on purpose. But I can stop my 3HP Delta if I really want to. I don't really use rip blades, just crosscut. So they have a lot more resistance and by pushing fast enough I can make the saw bog down.

skymaster · 02-23-2008, 05:33 PM

There are aftermarket adapters you can put on the power switch which will enable you to hit the switch with your knee. Rockler has a type.

hcbph · 02-23-2008, 07:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Capt Crutch

I remember my Dad saying that if you got into trouble with a table saw binding or getting ready to kick back due to kerf closure or whatever, you could always "STOP" the saw by forcing the work in so hard that it stalled, and then you could turn off the switch.

Maybe on an underpowered saw, might work. I wouldn't try it on my cabinet saw, I have yet to stall it even with thicker stock I've cut. Why not put on a splitter? The idea is to prevent the cut from closing up.

Paul

**joasis** · 02-23-2008, 10:01 PM

I would strongly advise against any technique that involves jamming or forcing material in any cutting application. You should always be thinking about your cut before the switch is turned on. It is a good habit to look the material over and see if the grain is working with the cut......lots of grief can be avoiding by planning how to cut the material with this consideration.

User3489 · 02-23-2008, 10:38 PM

[IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/Dale/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-1.jpg[/IMG]

The only time I take my guard and anti-kick back off is when I cut thin strips. I don't like pain. Dale

Capt Crutch · 02-24-2008, 09:34 AM

Thanks for the replies. Hmmm...I don't think my saw ever had the guard or splitter put ON in the first place...maybe I should. (My defensive-sawing technique is to try never to stand behind the blade.)

Watch those thin strips, Dale. I heard about some guy who was cutting thin strips on the TS and his truck was backed up to the shop door, and the saw kicked back on one of those thin strips and it shot it like an arrow RIGHT THROUGH THE TAILGATE!

mmwood_1 · 02-24-2008, 07:14 PM

Yeah, I make a practice of standing a little to the left when ripping. Never directly behind the potential kickback piece. I've had them spear 3/4" plywood standing against the wall 8' behind the table saw.

As far as the OP goes Capt. Crutch, it's not a technique I would be willing to try.

Knot Home · 02-25-2008, 12:51 PM

Jamming the work into the machine to stop it is a bad plan. Most decent new saws come with a knee paddle on the power switch. If your saw doesn't have one, it's not expensive to buy a new switch that does. I've also seen home made paddles that work great. Either way, it's cheap insurance that works great; all your attention stays on the table top where it belongs.

Roy

dpmcreations · 02-25-2008, 09:35 PM

I can hear the pain coming trying to stop the saw by jamming it... brrrr.. I do so like all of my pieces, parts, and appendages intact... get a knee switch or make a kill switch that sits on the floor so if you are doing bigger sheets you can move it to where you are.... a floor switch is the same thing as a new paddle... Maybe more convenient for you....

Gerry KIERNAN · 02-26-2008, 12:02 PM

I'm thinking a dead man switch might be appropriate. Okay, you might not be dead after that board jumps out and thwacks the living daylights out of you, but you'll sure as hell let go of that switch when it does.

Gerry

Ryu Bateson · 02-28-2008, 09:32 PM

I would never stop a saw like that..... although with my knowledge of industrial electronics I can tell you that it is possible to stop a saw in such a way.

Though you would probably ruin the motor! Not to mention the danger.....

I would get the knee cut off switch as well as placing power out protection and Overload prototection for power spikes. Sounds like a bit much, but its worth it! Trust me on this one!

Also It is wise to let at least two other people now you are using a power saw. W are not kids, but I think its a good idea anyway!

arkyrick · 02-28-2008, 10:14 PM

Ryu having at least two people know you are using a saw is a good idea that way you'll have someone to pick up the pieces........I'm sorry I couldn't resist just kidding

Handyman · 02-29-2008, 11:31 AM

Capt Crutch

Quote:

Originally Posted by joasis

I would strongly advise against any technique that involves jamming or forcing material in any cutting application. You should always be thinking about your cut before the switch is turned on. It is a good habit to look the material over and see if the grain is working with the cut......lots of grief can be avoiding by planning how to cut the material with this consideration.

While I stongly agrea with Joasis, I run my drive belt on the loose side so I can stop the blade if I have to. I dont plan to, nar do I make a habbit of. and as Dale said (I don't like pain. Dale ) I do my best to make sure it doesnt happen.