sanding furred wooden studs - Woodworking Talk

Angus McLean · 02-09-2008, 10:26 AM

February 9, 2008:

I am installing a ceramic tile shower. I have a "furred" out the studs(with plywood) to create a wooden frame and I plan to add the cement board then tile on top. When I postion the cement board up in place using shims then I have exactly 1/4 " to work to accomodate the tile (plus thinset) before the tile meets the escutcheon (shower fitting). The wooden frame is protruding too much.

I am thinking that if can take 1/16 " off of the surface of the wood all the way around the frame then it gives me the space I need for the tile.

Please can I be advised of the best tool to do this keeping in mind that I have to take 1/16 " off. Now the nails used to secure the wooden furring are going to interfere with this process, but I have a small punch like tool tool to be used with hammer that can drive the nails deeper. (It would be a big problem removing the furred plywood.)

The photos shows a view of the frame created from the furred out studs and some horizonatal blocks added.

Angus

**TexasTimbers** · 02-09-2008, 10:36 AM

It's hard for me to imagine 1/16" making any difference but that's your call.

I would use a belt sander with 120 grit. Anything coarser will take off more that a sixteenth right quick. The belts won't mind the nail heads either, but it would still be best to countersink them.

Mike · 02-09-2008, 10:46 AM

are you just talking about the shower head?

If so go the Borg and buy a longer shower pipe

daryl in nanoose · 02-09-2008, 12:34 PM

Just move the plumbing. I also can not see for the life of me how 1/16 is matter one way or the other.

Angus McLean · 02-09-2008, 01:42 PM

February 9, 2008:

I have already moved the plumbing as far as I possibly can. When I put the board into place and install the escutcheon I am left with exactly 1/4 " for the tile. I checked that by slippping the tile between the cement board and a piece of tile. It just squeezes in. I need more space for the tile, since thinset will be used. Therefore I have to think in terms of removing some of the wood. When I do this then the board will fit in and leave a bigger gap between the escutcheon and the board for the tile. I may need 3/32" rather than 1/16".

Why is it your thought that 1/16" taken off the plywood (1/4 ") will make no difference?
Surely that ~1/16 " will provide space for the thinset between the tile and the cement board?

Please can you explain,

Angus

huntsman22 · 02-09-2008, 01:57 PM

Why not just yank the plywood off and shim the studs with drywall shims?........ You are trying to make this too hard. Don

Angus McLean · 02-09-2008, 02:08 PM

Huntsman22; I need to fur out to accomodate the shower liner at teh bottom.

So I need to have furring out by at least 3/16 ".(just now I have 1/4 " plywood.

I have shims here and they are made of wood. My thought is the answer to your question is it would be much easier to sand the wood down and woud provide a better support for teh cement board. Th hozonatal wood put in place is in the same plane as the studs right now.

Angus McLean · 02-09-2008, 02:32 PM

to Texas Timbers:

A problem with sanding is that the plywood furring at LHS and RHS (on top of the studs) occupies corners so you have about 1 /1/4 " then you come to the right angle corner so I am nto sure a belt sander will work?

Please comment

huntsman22 · 02-09-2008, 02:42 PM

!/4 inch plywood, sanded down, does not give your backerboard any support. Only framing members will do that. You would be better served to remove the plywood and shim the studs directly, as I would be willing to bet that your ply is interior grade. One little leak will destroy it and rot it out behind your tile backer. If your liner is a bladder for a mud pan, just board over it. If it is a shower pan, it probably has a little movement. Chisel the studs below the pan, and shim it over closer. If you need to fur out studs, they should not be on the control wall........Don

**TexasTimbers** · 02-09-2008, 02:57 PM

I don't understand why you can't sweat on a longer pipe for the spout. That would give you the space you need for the escutcheon which is, as i undertsnad it, the sole problem here?

If you can't do that call a plumber to do it. Sounds easier than what you are trying to do.

Angus McLean · 02-09-2008, 03:22 PM

2/9/2008:

Here is a better view of the corner. The pieces of furring plywood make a right angle joint. The piece to be sanded is the piece to the left at the corner. This piece is protruding and so is teh piece on the right hand side.

I am thinking that a belt sander will not able to access the corner.

I wonder is small plan would do?

Any advice welcome;

Angus

Angus McLean · 02-09-2008, 03:28 PM

the plumbing at the back shower is a valve for the cold and hot water. There is no way of exteding that valve.(I have checked). The only option is to replace the valve wtih a new one and have it installed. The one I have is old, but working well and in very good condition.

THe actual spout fro the shower is on the right side of teh shower.

Angus McLean · 02-09-2008, 03:32 PM

2/9/2008:

no I am not talking about the shower head; the escutcheon is part of the valve for hot and cold water. It is there fro cosmetic purposes. I have groudn i tdown as best I can.

skymaster · 02-09-2008, 03:58 PM

fix the plumbing problem that you want to overlook, just replumb the diverter so it extends farther out.
This is not intended to insult you but it sure sounds like you are in way beyond your experience level and it would be way cheaper and faster in the long run to just get someone in there who can fix it. A It doesnt sound anymore than an hr or so fix for a good plumber.

dpmcreations · 02-09-2008, 04:16 PM

First question... How old is the Plubing unit that you have in the wall.. I unerstand economics... BUT I have seen alot of them fail right after the walls are closed again or spring a leak... And a new shower set with a lifetime warranty (American Standard) is way under $100.00 at the big box stores (Home Depot, Lowes, Menards, etc...) If you still don't want to change that then reset the pipes... Much better option and then you can get everything right where it should go... Also, why are you using thinset on the walls... Normally you use mastic on the walls and thinset on the floors... Much easier to work with and frankly works just as well... Honestly I really don't understand what 1/16" will do for you... If you are worried about spacing then move the pipes forward without changing them... Don't forget all pipes, yes even copper is bendable without breaking either the pipes or the joints... At least to the point that you need it to be... It seems as of late I have had alot of custom bathrooms to do.... Also, It is not very hard to do a couple of sweat connections... If you can't do it, check around for the neighborhood handyman.. Shouldn't charge but a a couple of bucks or a beer or two...

Angus McLean · 02-09-2008, 05:08 PM

February 9, 2008:

The valves are old (~20 years) from Central Brass in Ohio, but are in very good conditon. (This shower is an auxiliary shower.) They have already been moved out as far as I they can go. They do not sell extensions fro this valve. I asked about that in a plumbing supply store.

The cost of a new valve set will be ~$150 plus the cost of installation and rerouting the pipes appropropriaetly. The total cost estimate ~ $750. I have no intention of working on the plumbing.

Right now I have 1/4 " gap available for the tile. So all I need to do is have another 1/16" and I am hoping to get that by removing some of teh wood (~1/16 ") on both furred corners.

I am looking fro suggetions as to how to best do this.

Angus

**TexasTimbers** · 02-09-2008, 05:22 PM

Geez dude, by now you could have sanded the whole bathroom by hand. I'm not kidding.

bigredc · 02-09-2008, 09:44 PM

Get in there with a sledge hammer and bump the studs back. A 16th is hardly anything. At each point where the furring strips are toe nailed in give it a whack, just move the whole wall back.

dpmcreations · 02-10-2008, 09:06 AM

Angus.. Try the Bigred way.. Just bump them back.. Don't understand where you are spending so much money for a valve set... Just bought one at the Home Depot with a lifetime warranty for $80.00... But to each his/her own way.. Installation is not hard, just takes a bit of patience.. It sounds like you are a do-it kind of guy.... Too bad you weren't a bit closer.. Could have things changed in less than an hour for you... Try the bump technique... get with it finish it up... Good luck

End Grain · 02-10-2008, 10:29 AM

If you would, Angus, follow me outside the box for a moment. Take a few of your tiles and see if you can sand/grind away 1/16" off the back. Perhaps a common tile rasp will suffice. Try it. The worst is that you break one tile or you can't do it. I'm suggesting that one or two or three slightly thinner tiles around the plumbing will be a quick fix to your immediate problem. And I doubt you'd be compromising the integrity of the tile job.