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Rusted combination square.... hard to read. Rusted combination square.... hard to read.
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Old 06-15-2009, 08:27 PM   #1
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Default Rusted combination square.... hard to read.

I have a couple of combination squares I can barely read. They are kind of rusted/corroded. I need to polish them, but I also should be able to rub some kind of black ink or something to fill in the engraved numbers to make them easier to read. Any suggestions?
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Old 06-15-2009, 11:19 PM   #2
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Unless they are antiques, buy a new one.
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Old 06-16-2009, 12:35 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nelcatjar View Post
I have a couple of combination squares I can barely read. They are kind of rusted/corroded. I need to polish them, but I also should be able to rub some kind of black ink or something to fill in the engraved numbers to make them easier to read. Any suggestions?
I would lightly sand them and them take some whiteout and paint the engraved numbers, let it dry and lightly sand off the extra. It will leave your square quite readable.
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Old 06-16-2009, 12:48 AM   #4
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Clean them , then get some machinist die, and let it dry, then scuff them with steel wool.
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Old 06-16-2009, 07:19 AM   #5
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Most of the older US made ones are better than the usual chineese junk you now find. Clean it up, above suggestions all good.
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Old 06-16-2009, 07:24 AM   #6
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Default cleaning..

I would clean it with steel wool and light oil, then wash with some type of cleaner to remove the oil, then rub it with some paint, wipe off excess, leaving the numbers painted.
Good luck!
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Old 06-16-2009, 08:54 AM   #7
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Personally, unless they have some antique value, I would buy a new aluminum square. I have a couple of old steel squares that I never use anymore because of the rust and difficulty to read. My aluminum squares have none of these issues.

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Old 06-16-2009, 09:10 AM   #8
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A quick (and temporary) fix is to rub white chalk over the numbers.

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Old 06-16-2009, 11:15 AM   #9
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I've got both old combination squares and new. For the old that gets a bit on the dark side, a light sanding with 320x will brighten up the blade, and leave the markings dark.

I don't use the markings on the blade for measure, as the newer models the lines are fairly wide. The older squares seem to have much finer lines for measure. I mostly use the square to mark or check for square or for 45 deg marking, and for making a parallel line mark, which I check against a tape measure after tightening the blade. I just don't think they are accurate enough by themselves.






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Old 06-16-2009, 12:44 PM   #10
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So what kind of store carries "machinist dye" or "layout dye"? I know I can order online, but locally, places don't carry it like: Nothern Tool, Harbor Freight, Lowes, auto parts stores.
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Old 06-16-2009, 01:51 PM   #11
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try Fastenal they have locations all over and will order it for you (if they don't stock it)
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Old 06-16-2009, 02:45 PM   #12
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I'm posting before and after pictures when I get done.
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Old 06-16-2009, 04:17 PM   #13
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A can of coca cola will take rust off. Might be less surface damage than steel wool, and then you can just rinse with water, dry and proceed with the rest of your plan. Just an idea.

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Old 06-16-2009, 06:10 PM   #14
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Use scotch brite instead of steel wool. In grocery store they are called nylon scrubbing pads :} WD40 then rub
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Old 06-16-2009, 06:39 PM   #15
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I search out old ones, I prefer them. Unless yours is REALLY rust just hit it with a wire brush on a grinder or drill. It will clean it right up and you should be able to read it no problem. No need for dye or chalk. A good clean semi-shiny surface will cure the problem.
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Old 06-17-2009, 12:59 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by nelcatjar View Post
So what kind of store carries "machinist dye" or "layout dye"? I know I can order online, but locally, places don't carry it like: Nothern Tool, Harbor Freight, Lowes, auto parts stores.
In that case It would be my job. Being I am working with an Electrical Contractor and a General Contractor. One day I am running wire, the next I am running base boards.
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Old 06-18-2009, 08:01 PM   #17
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I have a couple of combo squares and one has a center head. I also have an aluminum square, which is good for framing and such, but I love my combo squares because I use it for measuring depth, duplicating measurements and the center head comes in real handy for finding the center of anything round.

I’ve never allowed mine to get rusty, but I had cataracts a few years back and it was a little hard to see those markings. I decided to try painting one of the squares with spray paint and cleaning off the excess right away. It took a couple of times but I was able to bring out the markings pretty good.

I’m now thinking of doing it to an old Craftsman framing square that I bought in 1970 when I worked as a framer. It was always dark with orange or maybe yellow markings, its hard to tell any more because its faded and my memory’s not so good. It will be a lot harder because the rafter table is pretty fine and has a few nicks. Plus it’s not like doing the edge of a rule where you wipe across the lines in one direction. The markings are in multiple directions.

I have an old high quality Starrett combo square with a center head and reversing protractor. It was left over from when I thought I wanted to be a Machinist. When I want something precise I use my Starrett. They are worth more than $175 now.
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Old 06-18-2009, 11:42 PM   #18
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As I recall, most combination squares are not that accurate...but still handy. Any sanding or wire brushing under power might result in even less accuracy...I like the Coke-a cola idea. Rick
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Old 06-19-2009, 08:03 AM   #19
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Quote:
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As I recall, most combination squares are not that accurate...but still handy.
Rick
A fixed square is always going to the most accurate, but it depends on who’s making it. A $5 stamped aluminum triangle is not going to compare to a precision machined square, but when working with wood that can swell, twist and bend, then precision doesn’t matter much. Hey there’s always wood putty.
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Old 06-19-2009, 09:56 AM   #20
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Quote:
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As I recall, most combination squares are not that accurate...but still handy. Any sanding or wire brushing under power might result in even less accuracy...
How? Please explain.
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